This is my second time back on the dyno with the new setup. Basically the first tune was garbage because of a wack timing curve! On the first pull with the new map at 9psi the car made 20 more horsepower. (It was 269 and it made 290) It was this way all the way to 12 psi (car made 359 previously 325) Then we made a pass at 15 and the car begins to act up get a check engine light! We check the code and it is code 9 Cylinder position Sensor! We reset the ecu and the light comes on a again at start up, we make a pass and the car acts like the ignition is breaking up! The tuner thinks that it is a distributor issue because that sensor is located in the distributor. The AFR is in the high 11's and timing is im low to mid 20 degree range! Joe said that his race civic had a similar problem and it was the distributor any help would be most appreciated! HELP ME GUYS IM SUPER FUSTERATED

 

Sounds like either an igniter or actual distributor issue but could be much simpler however.
(Might be something as small as a poor connection in a spark plug wire), work from the spark back.

 

What are your plugs gapped at???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rowdy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like either an igniter or actual distributor issue but could be much simpler however.
(Might be something as small as a poor connection in a spark plug wire), work from the spark back.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the igniter would not throw a check engine light. if the igniter was back or going back he wouldnt have any spark. its probably the dizzy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-tuned &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the igniter would not throw a check engine light. if the igniter was back or going back he wouldnt have any spark. its probably the dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right, now saying work from the spark back would mean what to you?

 

?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by forcefedh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure hoping that 'D-Tuned' was meaning 'bad' instead of 'back'.

When I say work back from the spark, I mean diagnose any electrical issues from the spark at the plug, all the way 'BACK' to the ECU. Hopefully that is a clear enough description of what I am trying to say here, I'd need to have my fourth grade teacher write it to make it any easier.

My suggestion on how to diagnose this issue should be clear now, some folks need to learn how to type before offering help, if you type like a fourth grader, it tends to give the impression that you are one.

 

So you guys would put your money on it being a distributor issue? I know its not the plugs because they were brand new and we checked the SP wires and everything! By the way i am running a MSD sci ignition with a blaster 2 coil could that have anything to do with it???

 

^^^^

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1341957

 

just because the plugs are new doesn't mean they are gapped properly for your needs. They are gapped for oem specs, not for turbo. If you just bought them new and just slapped them in without setting the gap your asking for troubles. I'm not saying it isn't anything else, just start there.

 

Can bad plugs cause a car to throw a code 9?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludelvr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can bad plugs cause a car to throw a code 9?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, (as long as the distributor needs replaced).

 

the plugs were gapped by my tuner.

 

The plug gap might be fine but it still won't explain the code you are throwing, as much as you refuse to accept it - you need to try another distributor.

 

got a new distributor from distributor King and it took care of the problem! now its back to the dyno next week!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rowdy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes, (as long as the distributor needs replaced).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Reason I ask is because I was throwing the same code, changed the dizzy with a buddy's and still had the code...but the plugs were untouched.

 

All i know is I replaced mine yesterday and reset the Ecu and it made the biggest difference! The car feels so much better i was very surprised didnt think it would make that much difference!

 

Glad to hear it worked out for you, this place can be a very powerful tool when it comes to diagnosing.

 

Oh yea, you are welcome.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jsprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All i know is I replaced mine yesterday and reset the Ecu and it made the biggest difference! The car feels so much better i was very surprised didnt think it would make that much difference!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh yea, you are welcome.

 

Thanks Man