Racingbrake XP rotors
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From: Mission Viejo, CA, USA
Racingbrake XP rotors
These guys are sort of new, so I wanted to give everyone a heads up...
These rotors are made with superior materials, yet are made as OEM replacement style units. They have the look and size of stock rotors, but have speciallized alloy castings, which are then heat-treated. Testimonials indicate life increase multiplied by three over OEM rotors under COMPETITION conditions!
Also, they take heat a lot better than junk rotors.
Just giving a heads up!
These rotors are made with superior materials, yet are made as OEM replacement style units. They have the look and size of stock rotors, but have speciallized alloy castings, which are then heat-treated. Testimonials indicate life increase multiplied by three over OEM rotors under COMPETITION conditions!
Also, they take heat a lot better than junk rotors.
Just giving a heads up!
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (MrHeeltoe)
What kind of guarantee are you offering on these? It looks like i will be able to burn through 2 sets of pads before my $13 autozone rotors meet their demise (95 Integra).... It would be worth it if i could get a whole year out of them 
Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (.RJ)
I tried a set of the racing brake rotors (race not street) & had good luck with them. I used to crack crappy autozone rotors in a day or two on track. The racing brake rotors lasted me about 8 days on track until I cracked them. (on a heavy car) 
So, i guess they do last about 3-4 times as long 
Except I didn't have much money to replace them, so I'm back to cheap NAPA/autozone rotors for now
So, i guess they do last about 3-4 times as long Except I didn't have much money to replace them, so I'm back to cheap NAPA/autozone rotors for now
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From: Mission Viejo, CA, USA
Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (.RJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well my problem is that its not worth 6x the cost, if they only last 3x as long </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, but you may find they perform better as well....he was using them on a lude it looks like......on a civic or integra they aught to last longer still.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, but you may find they perform better as well....he was using them on a lude it looks like......on a civic or integra they aught to last longer still.
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (MrHeeltoe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrHeeltoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, but you may find they perform better as well....</TD></TR></TABLE>
In what way? You cant decrease stopping distances......
Yes, but you may find they perform better as well....</TD></TR></TABLE>
In what way? You cant decrease stopping distances......
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (.RJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
In what way? You cant decrease stopping distances...... </TD></TR></TABLE>
While I agree that this might not decrease stopping distance, I have to comment on the importance of having a good brake system.
Most people think if they can lock up their brakes, and it is not fading throughout the session, there is no improvement to be made. Good big brake system can actually help your lap times and decrease stopping distance. Most of this has to do with the caliper and pads more than anything else. I've driven cars with real race calipers with exptic material and impressed by them. Like brembo gold which retail in north of $1600 per caliper.
How? By giving you better modulation. We all know to get the best stopping distance is not by locking up the brakes, but by maintaining the threshold where it is almost locking up. And this takes quite a skill of balancing act. With a better brake system, you will be able to do this easier and stay consistent. Thus decreasing braking distance cause you can stay in the threshold better.
In what way? You cant decrease stopping distances...... </TD></TR></TABLE>
While I agree that this might not decrease stopping distance, I have to comment on the importance of having a good brake system.
Most people think if they can lock up their brakes, and it is not fading throughout the session, there is no improvement to be made. Good big brake system can actually help your lap times and decrease stopping distance. Most of this has to do with the caliper and pads more than anything else. I've driven cars with real race calipers with exptic material and impressed by them. Like brembo gold which retail in north of $1600 per caliper.
How? By giving you better modulation. We all know to get the best stopping distance is not by locking up the brakes, but by maintaining the threshold where it is almost locking up. And this takes quite a skill of balancing act. With a better brake system, you will be able to do this easier and stay consistent. Thus decreasing braking distance cause you can stay in the threshold better.
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (Andrie)
Andrie, he is talking about the rotors not a complete big brake system or even a improved caliper design.
I am willing to bet that these rotors are better than the Autozone/Kragen/etc cheapies. Are they better than other 'premium' oem replacement rotors......?
I am willing to bet that these rotors are better than the Autozone/Kragen/etc cheapies. Are they better than other 'premium' oem replacement rotors......?
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (Andrie)
I'm not trying to change the subject around but it honestly comes down to what tire compound your running. You can have the best caliper best pad and best rotor combo but if you don't have a sticky tire that will work in conjuction to the best brake setup it aint gonna stop any better. I've used just about every rotor combo thats out. It's all the same, brakes get hot and there wear items, that why Autozone works for me! I think i might switch to 4 lug so I can get the blanks as cheap as RJ
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (Andrie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">While I agree that this might not decrease stopping distance, I have to comment on the importance of having a good brake system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, these are just replacement rotors If those rotors can give me better modulation....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM Factor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think i might switch to 4 lug so I can get the blanks as cheap as RJ </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, these are just replacement rotors
If those rotors can give me better modulation.... <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM Factor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think i might switch to 4 lug so I can get the blanks as cheap as RJ </TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (El Pollo Diablo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In marketing ways...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha, wiseguy....
I have not seen actual data on this, but based on the fact that these rotors in fact have a different material than your conventional rotors, they may very well yeild a higher friction coefficient. In conjunction with some good traction, they may well improve braking distances. RJ, the path of resistance is maybe not the most logical to take at first. I can see you are probably a hard sell.
I am sure there are performance benifits beyond just stopping distances. If we consider endurance events, these rotors are going to be noticably less worn by the end of the race. Providing better braking at the end, and a potential for better finishing positions. This in addition the a lesser risk of needing to change rotors in the middle of the race.
Also, these are designed to take the heat a lot better than a regular rotor. They could in fact be more resistant to fade.
All speculatory suggestion mind you, but my arguements hold no less water than yours.
Maybe you need to try a set to see how well they work for you?
Haha, wiseguy....
I have not seen actual data on this, but based on the fact that these rotors in fact have a different material than your conventional rotors, they may very well yeild a higher friction coefficient. In conjunction with some good traction, they may well improve braking distances. RJ, the path of resistance is maybe not the most logical to take at first. I can see you are probably a hard sell.
I am sure there are performance benifits beyond just stopping distances. If we consider endurance events, these rotors are going to be noticably less worn by the end of the race. Providing better braking at the end, and a potential for better finishing positions. This in addition the a lesser risk of needing to change rotors in the middle of the race.
Also, these are designed to take the heat a lot better than a regular rotor. They could in fact be more resistant to fade.
All speculatory suggestion mind you, but my arguements hold no less water than yours.
Maybe you need to try a set to see how well they work for you?
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (MrHeeltoe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrHeeltoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have not seen actual data on this, but based on the fact that these rotors in fact have a different material than your conventional rotors, they may very well yeild a higher friction coefficient. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, you may be able to improve Mu somewhat, but I'd doubt it since thats a function of the layer of friction material transferred to the rotor from the pad, and the pad itself Even if you did, you're still traction limited by your tires, so more bite on the pads wont make the car stop faster.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am sure there are performance benifits beyond just stopping distances. If we consider endurance events, these rotors are going to be noticably less worn by the end of the race. Providing better braking at the end, and a potential for better finishing positions. This in addition the a lesser risk of needing to change rotors in the middle of the race.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is a very good point, and I sort of filed this in my lid.... since I crew for a team that runs enduros
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, these are designed to take the heat a lot better than a regular rotor. They could in fact be more resistant to fade.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless the rotor has a significantly different chemical make up other than "iron" the materials wont help, but a different cooling vane design could certainly help this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All speculatory suggestion mind you, but my arguements hold no less water than yours.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, you cant replace physics with speculatory suggestion
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe you need to try a set to see how well they work for you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe I'll try a set. I am very hard on brakes (but getting better) so if I cant break them in 2-3 weekends they must be damn good
Well, you may be able to improve Mu somewhat, but I'd doubt it since thats a function of the layer of friction material transferred to the rotor from the pad, and the pad itself
Even if you did, you're still traction limited by your tires, so more bite on the pads wont make the car stop faster.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am sure there are performance benifits beyond just stopping distances. If we consider endurance events, these rotors are going to be noticably less worn by the end of the race. Providing better braking at the end, and a potential for better finishing positions. This in addition the a lesser risk of needing to change rotors in the middle of the race.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is a very good point, and I sort of filed this in my lid.... since I crew for a team that runs enduros
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, these are designed to take the heat a lot better than a regular rotor. They could in fact be more resistant to fade.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless the rotor has a significantly different chemical make up other than "iron" the materials wont help, but a different cooling vane design could certainly help this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All speculatory suggestion mind you, but my arguements hold no less water than yours.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, you cant replace physics with speculatory suggestion
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe you need to try a set to see how well they work for you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe I'll try a set. I am very hard on brakes (but getting better) so if I cant break them in 2-3 weekends they must be damn good
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (.RJ)
Maybe these rotors are cryogenically treated. Marketers of Cryo rotors (and other stuff) claim the wear improves by up to 3x and cracking is virtually eliminated. Could this be the case with MrHeelToes offering?
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (.RJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, you cant replace physics with speculatory suggestion
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha, yeah well...I am not trying to reach too much.
All I know is, my mother-in-law needed 2 sets of rotors replaced on her Legacy Outback in 22K miles.....if you are not familiar, this setup is a small diameter rotor with a 4 pot caliper in front. High pressure and small diameter mean these get torched fast in everyday driving.
We installed some RB UP rotors on it with some HPS, and it has already lasted longer than two sets of OEM. Both times before they were replaced under warranty, and these she purchased despite the warranty was still good when the second set took a crap.
Well, you cant replace physics with speculatory suggestion
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha, yeah well...I am not trying to reach too much.
All I know is, my mother-in-law needed 2 sets of rotors replaced on her Legacy Outback in 22K miles.....if you are not familiar, this setup is a small diameter rotor with a 4 pot caliper in front. High pressure and small diameter mean these get torched fast in everyday driving.
We installed some RB UP rotors on it with some HPS, and it has already lasted longer than two sets of OEM. Both times before they were replaced under warranty, and these she purchased despite the warranty was still good when the second set took a crap.
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (Johnny Mac)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe these rotors are cryogenically treated. Marketers of Cryo rotors (and other stuff) claim the wear improves by up to 3x and cracking is virtually eliminated. Could this be the case with MrHeelToes offering?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, these are not cryo treated.....I can imagine the benifits of doing so to these, but that just makes the cost higher.
No, these are not cryo treated.....I can imagine the benifits of doing so to these, but that just makes the cost higher.
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (MrHeeltoe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrHeeltoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Haha, yeah well...I am not trying to reach too much.
All I know is, my mother-in-law needed 2 sets of rotors replaced on her Legacy Outback in 22K miles.....if you are not familiar, this setup is a small diameter rotor with a 4 pot caliper in front. High pressure and small diameter mean these get torched fast in everyday driving.
We installed some RB UP rotors on it with some HPS, and it has already lasted longer than two sets of OEM. Both times before they were replaced under warranty, and these she purchased despite the warranty was still good when the second set took a crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's street driving where heat is not the huge enemy as it is on the track. You can't compare street driving to track driving.
Haha, yeah well...I am not trying to reach too much.
All I know is, my mother-in-law needed 2 sets of rotors replaced on her Legacy Outback in 22K miles.....if you are not familiar, this setup is a small diameter rotor with a 4 pot caliper in front. High pressure and small diameter mean these get torched fast in everyday driving.
We installed some RB UP rotors on it with some HPS, and it has already lasted longer than two sets of OEM. Both times before they were replaced under warranty, and these she purchased despite the warranty was still good when the second set took a crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's street driving where heat is not the huge enemy as it is on the track. You can't compare street driving to track driving.
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (MrHeeltoe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrHeeltoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Haha, yeah well...I am not trying to reach too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Want to "reach" a set of these over to the east siiiiiiiide 
I could be your "worst case scenario" tester! 170hp + FWD + 10.3" rotors = brake death
Haha, yeah well...I am not trying to reach too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Want to "reach" a set of these over to the east siiiiiiiide
I could be your "worst case scenario" tester! 170hp + FWD + 10.3" rotors = brake death
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (MrHeeltoe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrHeeltoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Haha, yeah well...I am not trying to reach too much.
All I know is, my mother-in-law needed 2 sets of rotors replaced on her Legacy Outback in 22K miles.....if you are not familiar, this setup is a small diameter rotor with a 4 pot caliper in front. High pressure and small diameter mean these get torched fast in everyday driving.
We installed some RB UP rotors on it with some HPS, and it has already lasted longer than two sets of OEM. Both times before they were replaced under warranty, and these she purchased despite the warranty was still good when the second set took a crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your mother in law trail brakes? Dayyyyyyyyyyuuuuuuuuuuummmmmmmmm.
Haha, yeah well...I am not trying to reach too much.
All I know is, my mother-in-law needed 2 sets of rotors replaced on her Legacy Outback in 22K miles.....if you are not familiar, this setup is a small diameter rotor with a 4 pot caliper in front. High pressure and small diameter mean these get torched fast in everyday driving.
We installed some RB UP rotors on it with some HPS, and it has already lasted longer than two sets of OEM. Both times before they were replaced under warranty, and these she purchased despite the warranty was still good when the second set took a crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your mother in law trail brakes? Dayyyyyyyyyyuuuuuuuuuuummmmmmmmm.
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From: Cerritos, CA, USA
Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (MrHeeltoe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrHeeltoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Haha, yeah well...I am not trying to reach too much.
All I know is, my mother-in-law needed 2 sets of rotors replaced on her Legacy Outback in 22K miles.....if you are not familiar, this setup is a small diameter rotor with a 4 pot caliper in front. High pressure and small diameter mean these get torched fast in everyday driving.
We installed some RB UP rotors on it with some HPS, and it has already lasted longer than two sets of OEM. Both times before they were replaced under warranty, and these she purchased despite the warranty was still good when the second set took a crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does you MIL drive down Mt. Everest or something?
Haha, yeah well...I am not trying to reach too much.
All I know is, my mother-in-law needed 2 sets of rotors replaced on her Legacy Outback in 22K miles.....if you are not familiar, this setup is a small diameter rotor with a 4 pot caliper in front. High pressure and small diameter mean these get torched fast in everyday driving.
We installed some RB UP rotors on it with some HPS, and it has already lasted longer than two sets of OEM. Both times before they were replaced under warranty, and these she purchased despite the warranty was still good when the second set took a crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does you MIL drive down Mt. Everest or something?
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From: Mission Viejo, CA, USA
Believe it or not she drives the car totally normally. Some cars just have shitty brakes from the factory. The legacy outback has the same rotors as the WRX....you should see how popular these rotors are with those guys!!!
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Re: Racingbrake XP rotors (MrHeeltoe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrHeeltoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These guys are sort of new, so I wanted to give everyone a heads up...
These rotors are made with superior materials, yet are made as OEM replacement style units. They have the look and size of stock rotors, but have speciallized alloy castings, which are then heat-treated. Testimonials indicate life increase multiplied by three over OEM rotors under COMPETITION conditions!
Also, they take heat a lot better than junk rotors.
Just giving a heads up!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a Couple of sets in stock...
11.0" Type R 5x114 and 11.0" Accord/Prelude/ JDM Type R 4X114
And some Civic/GSR 10.25" - 4X 100
I did some testing of these at the beginning of 2004. Racing Brakes.com were looking to sponsor our team then, just before we went with StopTech.
You could not, however fairly compare these to the great Stop Tech Big Brakes we now run on our cars! There is no comparison. But at the risk of further flaming by a disgruntled former team member who thinks he knows it all... Here is part of my January 2004 feed back to Racing brakes.com
. “I am glad you are happy with our test results. Compared to the Stock rotors that Your Rotors replaced, you have an excellent product, moderately priced for the purpose that they were designed, Club and Spec racing.”
I would have no hesitation in endorsing and promoting these Rotors on our web site as “A well made, cost effective product for mid to high levels of Club and Spec Racing”.
Kiwi
These rotors are made with superior materials, yet are made as OEM replacement style units. They have the look and size of stock rotors, but have speciallized alloy castings, which are then heat-treated. Testimonials indicate life increase multiplied by three over OEM rotors under COMPETITION conditions!
Also, they take heat a lot better than junk rotors.
Just giving a heads up!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a Couple of sets in stock... 11.0" Type R 5x114 and 11.0" Accord/Prelude/ JDM Type R 4X114
And some Civic/GSR 10.25" - 4X 100
I did some testing of these at the beginning of 2004. Racing Brakes.com were looking to sponsor our team then, just before we went with StopTech.
You could not, however fairly compare these to the great Stop Tech Big Brakes we now run on our cars! There is no comparison. But at the risk of further flaming by a disgruntled former team member who thinks he knows it all... Here is part of my January 2004 feed back to Racing brakes.com
. “I am glad you are happy with our test results. Compared to the Stock rotors that Your Rotors replaced, you have an excellent product, moderately priced for the purpose that they were designed, Club and Spec racing.”
I would have no hesitation in endorsing and promoting these Rotors on our web site as “A well made, cost effective product for mid to high levels of Club and Spec Racing”.
Kiwi
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Re: (LBHgti)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LBHgti »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where are these rotors manufactured?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Overseas somewhere, like everything else.
The difference being they are engineered and tooling is made here in the USA. The tooling is then sent over and run through what I was told was a top-o-the-line casting machine.....so, they are good.
Not priovate labeled junk either. They are cast with the name on the hub. These guys make their own stuff.
Overseas somewhere, like everything else.
The difference being they are engineered and tooling is made here in the USA. The tooling is then sent over and run through what I was told was a top-o-the-line casting machine.....so, they are good.
Not priovate labeled junk either. They are cast with the name on the hub. These guys make their own stuff.