We have been making some progress on our '92 Civic Si. (Finally, progress!) You can follow along here: http://grmotorsports.com/news/...ic-si/

And thanks for all of the help.

 

nice.

i'd love to see some head to head testing of my car vs. the GRM car. skidpad, slalom, acceleration, etc. i think it would be interesting to see the differences between a compromise setup and something a little more hardcore. i'm game if the GRM guys are!

nate

 

I'm totally game. E-mail or call me whenever you get a chance. We should probably also compare notes. But which one is the compromise car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by David S. Wallens &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm totally game. E-mail or call me whenever you get a chance. We should probably also compare notes. But which one is the compromise car? </TD></TR></TABLE> yours still has a/c and a stereo, right?

here's the thread i posted on my car's setup. linky

i've got notes on bump travel here in front of me. for only a 450lb front spring, 11.875" hub center to fender lip seems kinda low to be avoiding the bump stops under normal circumstances. of course, i run my car at about 11" and just use the bumpstop as additional spring, so it might not matter overall. how much front camber do you have? i either don't have enough static camber or roll stiffness or both for these crappy street tires. i'd imagine the softer sidewall bfg's would want even more.

the logistics of head to head comparison are tough with you guys being down souf. maybe i'll take a vacation during the winter to sunny florida... i'm sure we can work something out.

nate

 

And if we're done with it by then, I can offer up a $2006 STS2 CRX for that comparison.

And it won't have A/C or a radio in it.

 

Yeah, we still have the a/c. (Pussies, I know.) The previous owner spent $1200 installing it, so I'm not super-eager to rip it out--especially here in Florida. Stereo? I guess we could pull it for a big event. Bigger gains would come from putting a better driver behind the wheel, as I think that's the biggest thing holding back the car. (Well, that and more power.) I do admit that we could use a faster tire, and I have been working on that.

Rear bar just arrived, and the car is now at the body shop. Hopefully it will be a little quicker (and not so ugly) in about a week. I'll keep you guys posted.

PS: Photos from the body shop were posted today. It's now more pink than before, but that's only temporary.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by David S. Wallens &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, we still have the a/c. (Pussies, I know.) The previous owner spent $1200 installing it, so I'm not super-eager to rip it out--especially here in Florida. Stereo? I guess we could pull it for a big event. Bigger gains would come from putting a better driver behind the wheel, as I think that's the biggest thing holding back the car. (Well, that and more power.) I do admit that we could use a faster tire, and I have been working on that.

Rear bar just arrived, and the car is now at the body shop. Hopefully it will be a little quicker (and not so ugly) in about a week. I'll keep you guys posted.

PS: Photos from the body shop were posted today. It's now more pink than before, but that's only temporary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeeouch! $1200 for a/c is STEEP! i guess it sounds about right if you have to buy all the parts though. i took the a/c out of my hatch and put it in my coupe. cost me less then $200 to get working a/c in my coupe.

how much power do you think the car currently makes? my motor feels pretty damn strong but i don't know what it's putting down. i might get the time to throw it on the dyno and get it tuned before nats. i'm hoping something north of 130whp...

nate

 

Yeah, I think it was all-new parts for the a/c. I have the receipt, too. As far as power, I really don't know. Car pulls strong. Maybe it's all that carbon in the cylinder head. I wanted to get the suspension and brakes sorted first, and then I'll think about power.

Once I get the car back from the paint shop, we'll head to the dyno. I have a header and exhaust waiting to be installed, plus I have some other stuff to work on. I haven't even checked the timing yet. Car came with a K&N filter element and the airbox resonator removed. Has a nice snort to it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by David S. Wallens &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I wanted to get the suspension and brakes sorted first, and then I'll think about power.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

at the risk of being unpopular, i think a grm hmt setup would be ****

 

which header did you go with? and exhaust?

my street car has the resonator removed and you're right, it sounds pretty good. but if you like that, you GOTTA get an AEM cold air intake on there. sounds WAY better. and when i run the "nationals" exhaust setup, the car sounds incredibly mean.

for the timing, twist that thing all the way back to the firewall then bump it forward about 1/8". should be right around 17 or 18 degrees BTDC. that's what seemed to work best on my old motor.

nate - looking forward to the dyno results

 

We have a Vibrant exhaust and header. Maybe we should dyno a few other units and see which ones do best?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by David S. Wallens &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We have a Vibrant exhaust and header. Maybe we should dyno a few other units and see which ones do best?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hrm, never heard of them. link? is it a 4-2-1 header?

the exhaust isn't as important as the header. i used a stock b-pipe and a straight through muffler and made 124whp on my old 235k motor. the header is critical. the dc street header i use seems to have too small of a primary tube. when i hit the lottery i want to try a hytech or SMSP header and see if it picks up any additional mid-range and top end.

nate

 

oh, and BUY THE UR UNDERDRIVE PULLEY! on my car it was a simple bolt on 4whp/4wtq across the entire power band. on your car with the a/c pump on there you'll probably see an even bigger gain.

nate

 

Nate.

I'm tempted to try the 92-95 Civic Si next year. Learned alot after owning a 93 Civic Ex, 91 CRX Si, 00 Civic Si, and now my 91 Civic. Tried all sorts of parts on those cars.

Gotta sell my 00 Civic Si first though or the wife will kill me

 

Time for another update: The car has returned from the paintshop.

And here's the full poop: http://grmotorsports.com/news/...ic-si/

 

very nice! your rear quarter panels = t3h :dr00l:

interesting color selection. do they offer a blue that looks like that?

nate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very nice! your rear quarter panels = t3h :dr00l:</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, the painter said they found no rust while the car was in the shop. That made me happy.

 

Thats a spiffy looking car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hrm, never heard of them. link? is it a 4-2-1 header?

the exhaust isn't as important as the header. i used a stock b-pipe and a straight through muffler and made 124whp on my old 235k motor. the header is critical. the dc street header i use seems to have too small of a primary tube. when i hit the lottery i want to try a hytech or SMSP header and see if it picks up any additional mid-range and top end.

nate</TD></TR></TABLE>

The primary tubes on the DC are actually too large at 1.75" then need to be in the neighborhood of 1.5"

 

May be by this spring my car might be ready for some testing. Just got done autoxing this past weekend and love it. Here is what is done and looking for some input to see what you guys think. Uritane bushings all the way around
Tanabe prospec B Full Coilovers
Skunk2 UCA
Plan on running a rear shearical bearing in the Lower rear Contorl Arm and Rear Camber and toe kits and 13x8 with a 215/50/13 r compound tire

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey@Burns &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The primary tubes on the DC are actually too large at 1.75" then need to be in the neighborhood of 1.5"</TD></TR></TABLE>

everything i've always seen on header comparo's showed more power with larger primaries. is something else (like primary/secondary tube length, collector size) having more effect in these tests possibly?

nate - when it comes to header design

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by David S. Wallens &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We have a Vibrant exhaust and header. Maybe we should dyno a few other units and see which ones do best?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let me know if you guys decide to do this header test. I have a pretty funky custom unit built by RageImports.com that I'm curious to compare.

 

Sadly, I find myself more interested in hearing updates on how the Odessey is holding up to the rigors of towing. I'm thinking that a minivan would be much more family friendly than my Tundra (and better gas mileage).

Scott