Koni Adjustment Tool....
I had a friend send me this link to a Koni adjustment tool for the internal adjustable shocks... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1070725
This tool seems to be used for Koni Reds which are internal adjustable. My Koni Yellows (EF Civic) are also internal adjustable, I'm wondering if anyone else has used this tool on internal adjustable Konis Yellows?
The tool says it works for all Konis with 6mm hex nuts. I have to go home and check to see if mine have a 6mm hex nut...
I'm planning to get mine converted to external adjustables, but not until after nationals because I don't want to screw up my setup ---> but having some adjustment until then would be nice (I don't mind loosing the $40 investment).
This tool seems to be used for Koni Reds which are internal adjustable. My Koni Yellows (EF Civic) are also internal adjustable, I'm wondering if anyone else has used this tool on internal adjustable Konis Yellows?
The tool says it works for all Konis with 6mm hex nuts. I have to go home and check to see if mine have a 6mm hex nut...
I'm planning to get mine converted to external adjustables, but not until after nationals because I don't want to screw up my setup ---> but having some adjustment until then would be nice (I don't mind loosing the $40 investment).
This is the way I see it happening. I'm not 100% sure on this.
1. Remove the upper nut from shock with car on ground.
2. Insert tools (with hex'd end) to top of shocks.
3. Apply pressure down to compress shock (which is now not technically attached to mount) to allow adjustment.
4. Turn tool to make adjustment.
5. Release pressure on shock. Shock will rebound up, the tool makes sure it stays inline with the upper mount.
6. Re-install upper shock nuts.
You are basically doing the same proceedure you would so with the shocks off the car, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. The spring is supporting the car. Basically you use this long rod to compress the shock while installed on the car instead, it has a hex'd head on the rod to allow you to rotate the shock shaft.
1. Remove the upper nut from shock with car on ground.
2. Insert tools (with hex'd end) to top of shocks.
3. Apply pressure down to compress shock (which is now not technically attached to mount) to allow adjustment.
4. Turn tool to make adjustment.
5. Release pressure on shock. Shock will rebound up, the tool makes sure it stays inline with the upper mount.
6. Re-install upper shock nuts.
You are basically doing the same proceedure you would so with the shocks off the car, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. The spring is supporting the car. Basically you use this long rod to compress the shock while installed on the car instead, it has a hex'd head on the rod to allow you to rotate the shock shaft.
The shock shaft is independent of the spring when you remove the nut from the upper mount.
Basically you are removing the nut that you would remove to disassemble your spring/shock combo.
Basically you are removing the nut that you would remove to disassemble your spring/shock combo.
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$40 would be better than replacing your shocks with new ones that are external adjustable... and $40 is worth it for me to be able to tune my car at an autocross for the next month without having to remove the assembly...
I just found out my Koni Yellows (internal adjustable) have a 5mm hex'd nut, not a 6mm. So this seems like it only works on Koni Reds.
I talked to 928 Motorsports and they wouldn't be able to make a special order for this tool with a 5mm hex's head in lieu of 6mm.
Looks like I might try and make my own.
I just found out my Koni Yellows (internal adjustable) have a 5mm hex'd nut, not a 6mm. So this seems like it only works on Koni Reds.
I talked to 928 Motorsports and they wouldn't be able to make a special order for this tool with a 5mm hex's head in lieu of 6mm.
Looks like I might try and make my own.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mcmaster sells an extra long t handle hex driver for $35.44
2 foot long T handle. 5mm hex.
part number 7167A15 $35.44</TD></TR></TABLE>Cool thanks I'll check that out. I was actaully searching for exactly that...
Either that or I'm have someone fab one from me. A rod the thickness of the shaft with a 5mm hex on the end. Then "T" off the top of it with the same rod.
EDIT: Thanks a bunch Tyson, that part is exactly what I need. Much appreciated!!!!!
2 foot long T handle. 5mm hex.
part number 7167A15 $35.44</TD></TR></TABLE>Cool thanks I'll check that out. I was actaully searching for exactly that...
Either that or I'm have someone fab one from me. A rod the thickness of the shaft with a 5mm hex on the end. Then "T" off the top of it with the same rod.
EDIT: Thanks a bunch Tyson, that part is exactly what I need. Much appreciated!!!!!
id make sure the OD of the shaft is still small enough to fit. there seems to be a set screw described to secure the bit too, that could get in the way too.
if you get it, let us know if it works. off the shelf is nice.
if you get it, let us know if it works. off the shelf is nice.
Actually for anyone reading this in the future, I don't see the difference between the 928motorsports piece and the one from McMaster...
The 18" long one from McMaster is only $26.28.
Modified by Mugenlude at 4:32 PM 8/17/2005
The 18" long one from McMaster is only $26.28.

Modified by Mugenlude at 4:32 PM 8/17/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id make sure the OD of the shaft is still small enough to fit. there seems to be a set screw described to secure the bit too, that could get in the way too.
if you get it, let us know if it works. off the shelf is nice.</TD></TR></TABLE>I contacted McMaster and the shaft is 3/8" (or 9.525mm). I'm going to have to go home and verify the thickness of my shock shaft to make sure it is 10mm.
if you get it, let us know if it works. off the shelf is nice.</TD></TR></TABLE>I contacted McMaster and the shaft is 3/8" (or 9.525mm). I'm going to have to go home and verify the thickness of my shock shaft to make sure it is 10mm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lee at koni told me internally adjusted shocks have 10mm shafts.</TD></TR></TABLE>Great, thanks for all the info.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lee at koni told me internally adjusted shocks have 10mm shafts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
On a Honda, the threaded portion of the pin is 10mm and the working portion of the rod is 12mm. If you were to do this, it will need to fit through the 10mm ID of the top mount sleeve that goes inside the top bushings. Remember for a system like this to work, you will have to be able to push the rod down through the the top mount sleeve, have the bottom side pin rubber stay in place, push through the bump rubber and get into position to do your adjustment. Once done, the has pressure of the shock should slowly push the rod back out (no gas int he shocks won't work) while you guide it such that the bump rubber and pin rubbers all drop back into position. You will have no way to pull up on the pin of the shock so you are going to have to hope that everything stays aligned and happy to drop back together with no misalignment. All of this time, you will have the spring compressed and loaded but without the shcok rod there to keep it all completely contained. If somehow the compressed but not fully retained spring shifted, it could be unpleasant to put back together and potentially dangerous if it broke free.
I saw this 928 thing back when i started with Koni and I would not recommend it becasue of potential risks but this does not stop you guys from getting it. I have often wondered if this small company really had the liability protection from injuries to make this worth while. Do as you like but for this toi work well I think the sun, moon and your lucky stars need to be properly aligned.
On a Honda, the threaded portion of the pin is 10mm and the working portion of the rod is 12mm. If you were to do this, it will need to fit through the 10mm ID of the top mount sleeve that goes inside the top bushings. Remember for a system like this to work, you will have to be able to push the rod down through the the top mount sleeve, have the bottom side pin rubber stay in place, push through the bump rubber and get into position to do your adjustment. Once done, the has pressure of the shock should slowly push the rod back out (no gas int he shocks won't work) while you guide it such that the bump rubber and pin rubbers all drop back into position. You will have no way to pull up on the pin of the shock so you are going to have to hope that everything stays aligned and happy to drop back together with no misalignment. All of this time, you will have the spring compressed and loaded but without the shcok rod there to keep it all completely contained. If somehow the compressed but not fully retained spring shifted, it could be unpleasant to put back together and potentially dangerous if it broke free.
I saw this 928 thing back when i started with Koni and I would not recommend it becasue of potential risks but this does not stop you guys from getting it. I have often wondered if this small company really had the liability protection from injuries to make this worth while. Do as you like but for this toi work well I think the sun, moon and your lucky stars need to be properly aligned.
Thanks for the response Lee.
I realize this isn't the most optimal may to adjust my shocks, I plan to have my internal adjustable converted ---> or just purhcase the pre-made race set of 8041s. However, as I mentioned above, I'm not going to do that until after nationals.
I'm going to try it out and see how it goes, and report back on it.
I just got the tool today, less than 24 after ordering it --> so big props to McMaster-Carr on custumer service and delivery.
I realize this isn't the most optimal may to adjust my shocks, I plan to have my internal adjustable converted ---> or just purhcase the pre-made race set of 8041s. However, as I mentioned above, I'm not going to do that until after nationals.
I'm going to try it out and see how it goes, and report back on it.
I just got the tool today, less than 24 after ordering it --> so big props to McMaster-Carr on custumer service and delivery.
Well I gave it a try last night. I could only get the shaft on compress about 2", which I don't think is far enough.
I was alone and I can't see what is holding it up, I will get another set of hands to help me out this weekend so I can see in the wheel well while someone else pushes the shaft down.
I was alone and I can't see what is holding it up, I will get another set of hands to help me out this weekend so I can see in the wheel well while someone else pushes the shaft down.
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