Brakes are dragging really bad
I just tried drivin the R to the shop just now which is probably 3-4 miles away from the house. I changed the pads front and rear VR's up front and GT sports in the rear. For some reason they were draggin pretty bad. When I installed them I looked at the pistons to see if anything was on them before I pushed them in, nothing clean as hell. I have the spoon calipers. Pads went in fine. The rear I checked everything was fine clean the boot around the piston etc. before pushing in as well. Everything was working smoothly. I get on the road today and they dragged like a bitch. But the worst part about it all..my mechanic was like yeah your an hour late can't get to your car. So my pads are probably destroyed, both spoon calipers are probably frozen for some apparent reason. I bled them a month before and were fine. i'm 300bucks outta the hole probably, cuz I had to drive the car back home because he didn't have room for it to stay. Any help? I hope those calipers arent messed up. I need to bring the car to him tomorrow in the mourning. Should I just try to sand down the pads? I mean they went in perfectly.
Never heard of two calipers dragging...
You say this is the rear? Have you checked the parking brake cable to see if it was snagged on anything?
front... Well I'm just lost.
You say this is the rear? Have you checked the parking brake cable to see if it was snagged on anything?
front... Well I'm just lost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by this_is_ridiculous_reid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure ur caliper slides are nice and lube, sometimes they get rusted and seized up and dont slide properly. Like the top can move and the bottom dont which will cause your brakes to drag.
UNBAN black_arr woot!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking the same thing. Also, did you install new rotors, or have the old ones turned? If not, that could create some heat, from the glazed rotors and new pads.
UNBAN black_arr woot!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking the same thing. Also, did you install new rotors, or have the old ones turned? If not, that could create some heat, from the glazed rotors and new pads.
I think brakes just don't get along with me period. It seems like the more you baby them the more Fu**ed up they get! Should I make that a quote? Hmmm?
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I doubt just the pads would make your calipers bind. Did you keep an eye on the brake fluid as you compressed the pistons? Perhaps you just have way too much brake fluid. My calipers are actually starting to bind, and its time for a rebuild. However, I do not have spoon calipers and don't know of any rebuild kit for the spoonies.
Yeah..thats kinda why I hate how I bought them. I probably sent atleast 10 different e-mails to OPAK, InlineFour, and AJ racing about a rebuild kit for them, just so that if I did run into a problem like this I would have a correction for it. They never gave me a straight answer.. they said they'll look into it, which they never did. If they sell JDM parts they should be prepared to have back-up or replacement parts for them. Anyways, I bled the brakes a month before, I was running on Autozones and GT Sport pads after I bled the brakes and everything was working fine. I brought the car to the shop today so I'll find out more about the pain in the ***
Just picked up the car. Good news first... the car is fine everything is working fine. Bad news... I'm running 15x7 TE37's 43mm offset. I know there have been discussions about where the spacer is suppose to be with the spoon calipers. Funny thing is, I've been running around the street on the GT-sport- Autozone setup for sometime now with the washer not between the caliper and the mounting bracket. It was always on the outside of the bracket, which worked fine and didn't have uneven pad wear etc. and could still use the Volks. But for some reason, the Autozone rotors were too thick and the pads were too thick also, which was causing the drag. We moved the spacer between the caliper and the bracket and it worked fine, the rotor spun freely without any drag. Luckly I have the R compound mounted on the stock rims for the track, otherwise I would have had to mill one side of the rotor for clearance. I don't understand why they make the rotor thicker on one side than the other. So.. long story short, I can't use my volks on the track if I don't mill the rotor. I'm not about to use a spacer, because... I'll never do that! I'm kinda pissed because I told the shop where I ordered the rims, that I need an offset to clear the spoonies. The owner kept telling me "they will clear the caliper, volk said the 43mm offset will clear the caliper without a problem" So thats the story. I just don't understand why autozone makes thicker rotors sometimes and sometimes they don't because the gt-sports i ran on the street and the good batch of autozones I ran with them worked fine with the washer being on the oustide of the bracket.
One side of the rotor is thicker, what? that makes no sense.
Why are you using washers to space the caliper away from the bracket, aren't they a direct bolt-on?
Sounds like you're doing something wrong, or something isn't installed properly.
BTW, you don't push the rear pistons in, you screw them in.
Why are you using washers to space the caliper away from the bracket, aren't they a direct bolt-on?
Sounds like you're doing something wrong, or something isn't installed properly.
BTW, you don't push the rear pistons in, you screw them in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW, you don't push the rear pistons in, you screw them in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know how to do it, I just didn't write the hole procedure in my topic. There aren't any problems with the rear calipers. If you look down the middle of an Autozone rotor you will see that the outside of the rotor is thicker than the other side. The washer I'm talking about, is the one that is supplied with the Spoon caliper kit. The washer is supposed to be added between the mounting bracket and caliper to space the caliper out for even wear of the pads. The way I had it previously, was the washer was on the ouside of the bracket which was why I had the drag on the outside pad, from the caliper being to far inward causing the pad to just sit on the rotor and not retract, because there was no room for it to go back in. I got it straightened out though, thanks for the info.
BTW, you don't push the rear pistons in, you screw them in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know how to do it, I just didn't write the hole procedure in my topic. There aren't any problems with the rear calipers. If you look down the middle of an Autozone rotor you will see that the outside of the rotor is thicker than the other side. The washer I'm talking about, is the one that is supplied with the Spoon caliper kit. The washer is supposed to be added between the mounting bracket and caliper to space the caliper out for even wear of the pads. The way I had it previously, was the washer was on the ouside of the bracket which was why I had the drag on the outside pad, from the caliper being to far inward causing the pad to just sit on the rotor and not retract, because there was no room for it to go back in. I got it straightened out though, thanks for the info.
Yea I don't know... Maybe it's the Tawianese $24.99 autozone rotors being too thick maybe it's the cobalt pads being too thick I don't know. Maybe I just got a bad set of autozone rotors, by them being too thick.
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yellow blur
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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Sep 14, 2002 02:40 PM




