I have a 91 Accord LX A/T 120,000 miles on her

I have ran Quaker State High RPM Synthetic Blend 10w-30 since i bought the car about 1 month ago.

i have done the following to the car...

Replaced all radiator hoses

Replaced brakes all around... Rotors, Calipers, Lines, Pads, Drums & Shoes.

Replaced A/C Compressor, but blew it again

Drained Tranny Fluid 3 Times and replaced with Honda z1 and Prolong auto tranny treatment

Replaced Headers to Megan Racing 4-2-1, Cat to Test Pipe, and Cat Back Exaust.

Replaced Oil Pan Gasket & Valve Cover Gasket w/ Spark Plug Seals.

Replaced Dizzy - Msd Cap and Blaster SS Coil is on order.

Removed Stock Air Box and replaced with Cone Filter.

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Now for my questions.

first my engine is tapping a little bit, not on the top end but not the bottom sorta the middle. on my last oil change i used lucas synthetic oil stabilizer instead of the regular heavy duty stabilizer in the car because i was gonna go to full synthetic next time.

all my friends say its noting big but change my oil and dont go synthetic.

1 person where i work told me it sounds like a main bearing and to just use regular oil aswell.

should i go back to regular oil? stay blended or go full synthetic?

no oil leaks or burning btw.

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Next what can i do performance wise to get more power?

i wanna be sitting on atleast 200 WHP.

im open to any ideas so long as its not drop a h22 in there i wanna stay with this motor, allthough im open to head swap ideas.

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also i had a friend tell me to use trick shift in my tranny and ill get better response, but he drives a GM

any1 here have any experience with either Trick Shift or Durst Hot Shift ATF?

TIA

 

Alright, first I dunno if I'd be running a full synthetic.....I run Castrol High-Mileage and it seems to work great. The F22 is known for having valvetrain noise, I'd pull the valve cover and check the lash on the intake/exhaust valves with feeler gauges. My '92 Accord has 221,000 and still runs like new, I've been through 2 timing belt changes, 1 water pump, a radiator, a distributor, a clutch assem., plugs, wires, and the rest of the car is pretty much stock except for the sound system and the suspension work and intake.

As for wanting 200 whp from your F22......it's not going to be possible without either a swap, or rebuilding your current bottom end and running a worked head, not to mention the tuning involved. If you throw a new high-performance head on that bottom end, you are going to have problems....the bottom end might let go. You could run the bottle, but I would'nt suggest that. Also, a turbo is an option and you'd get great torque but if you are looking for long term reliability.....I would strongly suggest an H22. It's almost going to be your best "Bang-for-the-buck." Plus it'll pull hard all of the way to redline, unlike our current power plants.

 

all 16 valves were adjusted

intake to .10 exaust to .12 sounded much better this tap is sorta like a oil tap very low and small but its existing.

its not at the top or bottom its sorta sounds like the middle of the engine.

so i guess next oil change back to regular high mileage oil?

what about valvoline high mileage synthetic?

or what is the best choice for oil at this stage of the game with what additives?

again i have no leaks or burning occuring, only this slight oil like tap.

 

a tap at teh middle of the motor is still a bit vague description, does the tap change with the RPM? does it get louder or stay the same sound?


as far as the oil goes I would stay blended, the motor oil used does nto make as big of a difference in teh life of the motor as does the consistent checking/and changing of the oil

changing types can cause more problems than help

 

Well, you could run a synthetic, or a regular high-mileage motor oil......but once you change over consistancy is key. I run the hell outta my F22, with no problems what so ever. I am just running cheap, 2.50 a quart high mileage castrol. Just make sure if you are running regular oil to change it every 3000 miles amd do the filter to. Most should also rotate tires forward at this interval as well......although few do.

As for as additives, I have never added anything to my oil. Just a fuel-system cleaner in the past. Go fish......

 

I'd pick up a noise-stethascope for the engine tick, but I'm sure if it's subtle then it's nothing major. I've used one, they work great.....it'll allow you to identify the exact location of the noise:

http://www.eastwood.com/images...2.jpg

 

upon rpm change the noise is consistant with the rpm im traveling at /revving at but the sound doesnt louden much still only about the sound of a tapping valve