NEED GUIDENCE ON CAMS
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chinese acrobat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sell stocks get toda b spec
excellent for N/A</TD></TR></TABLE>
Toda b's require aftermarket valvesprings....
What I always recommend:
a. Figure out how fast you want to be. (13s etc)
b. Figure out how much power it will take to be that fast.
c. Figure out what is required to meet those goals.
excellent for N/A</TD></TR></TABLE>
Toda b's require aftermarket valvesprings....
What I always recommend:
a. Figure out how fast you want to be. (13s etc)
b. Figure out how much power it will take to be that fast.
c. Figure out what is required to meet those goals.
Well at this time I dont want to change any internals besides the cams.
Right now the motor is in a EG with ac
. I want just some more power. The car runs really strong with current bolt ons
intake
type r fuel rail, fuel pump
aem f.p.r
98 R header
2.5 pipping es tuning muffler
mugen ecu
msd ignition and external coil
Ive never tracked it but on the gtech it runs mid to high 13's
That being said what cams should I run without changing the valvetrain or springs?
O i plan to get some cam gears to
Right now the motor is in a EG with ac
. I want just some more power. The car runs really strong with current bolt onsintake
type r fuel rail, fuel pump
aem f.p.r
98 R header
2.5 pipping es tuning muffler
mugen ecu
msd ignition and external coil
Ive never tracked it but on the gtech it runs mid to high 13's
That being said what cams should I run without changing the valvetrain or springs?
O i plan to get some cam gears to
how much money r u willing to spend? As far as the type-r goes, I don't think JUST cams will give you much of a difference in power. You might just want to save up some more money and up grade the valve train and get the better cams to go with it. Of course, do some tunning when you get your new set up.....so more money there too.
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You should easily be in the high 13s with a stock JDM ITR engine in an EG with good driving. I would look at a better header first then possibly gettting a spare head built for some nice cams with a 2 layer HG and selling off that OEM ITR head.
If you want reliability, keep it the way it is and just do bolt ons. I've got 91k on my stock engine with nothing more than bolt ons and have 0 problems reving to 9k with 230 psi across all 4 cylinders.
If you want reliability, keep it the way it is and just do bolt ons. I've got 91k on my stock engine with nothing more than bolt ons and have 0 problems reving to 9k with 230 psi across all 4 cylinders.
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