I'm still trying to figure out what is going on with my clutch. The clutch grabs strong and does not slip at anytime. After a hard session (much heat) on the track the pedal engagement ends up being very close to floor and something just isn't right (but it still grabs fine). Afte the car cools for some time the clutch feels normal again.

I tried bleeding the clutch fluid before today's sessions but that did not solve the problem. Could I be having problems withte master cylinder? Any other suggestions?

(btw, it is the TODA clutch and flywheel)

 

What clutch fluid are you using?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What clutch fluid are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used Motul 5.1 brake fluid.

 

hrmmm...

PIA, but have you tired a different fluid? I use Castrol LMA and have no issues, I like it cause I can tell when it's dirty,,, Unlike ATE Blue Both work the same for me tho.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hrmmm...

PIA, but have you tired a different fluid? I use Castrol LMA and have no issues, I like it cause I can tell when it's dirty,,, Unlike ATE Blue Both work the same for me tho.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haven't tried a different fluid - maybe I'll give that a go. You think it is a fluid issue and not something bigger like the clutch MC?

 

personally, I work out the cheap and small things first... But have you looked under the dash or firewall for any leaks.

 

Not the fluid. Most likely your clutch MC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm still trying to figure out what is going on with my clutch. The clutch grabs strong and does not slip at anytime. After a hard session (much heat) on the track the pedal engagement ends up being very close to floor and something just isn't right (but it still grabs fine). Afte the car cools for some time the clutch feels normal again.

I tried bleeding the clutch fluid before today's sessions but that did not solve the problem. Could I be having problems withte master cylinder? Any other suggestions?

(btw, it is the TODA clutch and flywheel)</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm sort of having a similar problem...

my pedal will become increasingly more sloppy at high rpms. the clutch appears to hold and allow me to shift just fine, but it will not return the pedal to the full "upright" position after a shift. i'm currently using ATE super blue and like Bbasso said, its hard to tell when its time to change.

does your problem occur at both low and high rpm when the car is running hot?

also, i dont know if this is related to MY problem...but something in the clutch system makes a whistling noise from time to time... almost like vacuum is somehow involved. i'll put just a tiny bit of pressure on the pedal and the noise will increase, if i push a little bit harder or back off completely it will stop.

now, we all know that a tell tale sign of a bad brake master cylinder is that the pedal will just "sink" to the floor especially under hot operating temperatures...so would a clutch master cylinder behave in a similar fashion? i've heard that the valving can go bad inside the MC without it showing visible signs of leakage.

i had been suspecting that the clutch was "over centering" which seems to be a problem where the throwout bearing is moved too far forward and has trouble returning to its normal position (i think...) but my problem occurs before i even disengage the clutch for a shift. if i rest my foot firmly on the pedal as i'm approaching high rpm, i can feel the pedal start to sag. by the time i push the pedal to make the shift its already gone "funny" on me.



ps i'm changing my master cylinder tomorrow with some fresh castrol fluid (no more super blue for me)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOHN WAYNE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i'm sort of having a similar problem...

does your problem occur at both low and high rpm when the car is running hot?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, in fact I notice it most after a session on the track trying to drive around the paddock...

We seem to be having a very similar problem. I have not detected any leaks and the clutch pedal certainly doesn't 'fall' to the floor requiring me to lift it with my toe. However, the clutch engagement point is so close to the floor when this is happening that it makes things a little difficult.

I have a feeling that I need a new clutch MC...

From this pic, is all I need #6? Or do I need 8, 28, 4 and 30 as well? Maybe #9?
I have no idea exactly what parts I need to swap this out.

 

If it's a problem related to heat, I highly doubt that anything from the slave cylinder and up will be the culpret. Sounds like a disk or bearing issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it's a problem related to heat, I highly doubt that anything from the slave cylinder and up will be the culpret. Sounds like a disk or bearing issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is not want I wanted to hear...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it's a problem related to heat, I highly doubt that anything from the slave cylinder and up will be the culpret. Sounds like a disk or bearing issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Id have to agree with this,
I had similar issues with my Civc, I thought for all money it was my MC it turned out to be a stuffed disc

 

im having the same problem. Ill drive hardish i guess, then the clutch engagement point will be like at the floor, where normally its... you know... in the middle somewhere. But then it corrects it self. I already switched out my clutch mc.... uh oh

 

Not exactly the same symptoms I had but you may want to read anyways....

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1304728

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


From this pic, is all I need #6? Or do I need 8, 28, 4 and 30 as well? Maybe #9?
I have no idea exactly what parts I need to swap this out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

One way to tell if the CMC is bad or leaking is if theres any fluids leaking out onto the shaft of the CMC, look from the inside of the car where it attaches to the pedal any fluid or grease should be a giveaway.

If you do need a new CMC though all you should need (granted you dont lose or break anything else) is #6, and if you're lucky the dealership sometimes stocks this part as its the same for all of them.

Like others have said though I'd try bleeding the system with new brake fluid, the fluid for the clutch goes bad much faster (daily driving) than the brake system fluid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Educator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not exactly the same symptoms I had but you may want to read anyways....

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1304728</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the link. It sounds like a very similar situation. I have yet to find any leaks from the MC, so I'm worried my clutch may be gone...

 

I'm also having the same issue but I though my clutch went out so I replaced it and now 4 days later the problem came back and I've changed axels and slave but not the CMC my clutch slips when its hot then won't be grabing any other ideas out there