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dc2r - going from autopower 4-point bolt in rollbar to kirk 6-point bolt in... problems?

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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 09:57 AM
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Black R's Avatar
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Default dc2r - going from autopower 4-point bolt in rollbar to kirk 6-point bolt in... problems?

I have an autopower 4-point bolt in rollbar currently.

I have come upon an excellent deal locally for a Kirk 6-point bolt in rollbar.

My only concern (other than the fact that this vehicle sees the streets frequently) is that the spots I have already drilled out might be weakened - especially since I will most likely have to drill out new holes in the same vicinity for the new rollbar.

Has anyone else gone from autopower 4-point to kirk 6-point?
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 11:01 AM
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Default Re: dc2r - going from autopower 4-point bolt in rollbar to kirk 6-point bolt in... problems? (Black

hmmm, good point about the bolt holes...

Perhaps it would be better to simply add two diagonal down-tubes to the front? Find a local fabricator and I'm sure he could put something together for you... perhaps for the same price or cheap.
... bolt hole issue solved.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 03:17 PM
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Default Re: dc2r - going from autopower 4-point bolt in rollbar to kirk 6-point bolt in... problems? (Black

Could you simply have the previous holes welded?
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 03:27 PM
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Default Re: dc2r - going from autopower 4-point bolt in rollbar to kirk 6-point bolt in... problems? (Black

YOU ARE NOT WEAKENING the chasis by adding a couple dozen more holes....

there are plates that go under the kirk....which is by far a superiour cage....

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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 07:51 PM
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Default Re: dc2r - going from autopower 4-point bolt in rollbar to kirk 6-point bolt in... problems? (Black

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YOU ARE NOT WEAKENING the chasis by adding a couple dozen more holes....

there are plates that go under the kirk....which is by far a superiour cage....</TD></TR></TABLE>


I didn't know how else to describe it - but basically, with that many holes in the same area - the plates are going to be more likely to rip through the sheetmetal there... that is my concern..... kind of like perforations on a sheet of paper.
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 08:22 PM
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Default Re: dc2r - going from autopower 4-point bolt in rollbar to kirk 6-point bolt in... problems? (Black

You could have additional plates welded on top of and/or underneath the current spots where the main hoop rests. In the rear it shouldn't matter, as the Kirk doesn't mount to the shock towers/wheel wells.
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 04:58 AM
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Default Re: dc2r - going from autopower 4-point bolt in rollbar to kirk 6-point bolt in... problems? (Black

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could have additional plates welded on top of and/or underneath the current spots where the main hoop rests. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Now that's an idea. Although, when I was bolting the autopower bar in - I noticed that the metal wasn't that thick in those areas anyway... maybe because there is a top layer and a bottom layer.....


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the rear it shouldn't matter, as the Kirk doesn't mount to the shock towers/wheel wells.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It looked to me like the kirk did mount in the same spots for the main hoop and rear... here's a pic the seller took:

http://img.photobucket.com/alb...8.jpg


I'll try to get out there this weekend to inspect it in person.

He offered to trade me straight up for the autopower bar.....


Modified by Black R at 11:37 AM 8/12/2005
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 05:15 AM
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Default Re: dc2r - going from autopower 4-point bolt in rollbar to kirk 6-point bolt in... problems? (Black

The floor metal is very thin. If you were to do the metal plate idea, one plate would probably be sufficient, and even then, something thin (1/8" or even 1/16" maybe) would do it.

For the rear points....I'm trying to think if I have any pics. All the Kirk bars I've seen have the rear arms go to the floor of the trunk. The plates go on top of the framerails, with the bolts going on either side of it.




That's the old design with the arm being bent like that, but if you the mounting design is the same.

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