I need help, anybody know a write up on changing rotors?
sup techstaz, juss wondering but does anybody know if theres a write up on changing rotors and brake pads? i juss got some slotted rotors that needs to be put in, if anybody can help, thanx
Modified by SA_SoLcHyLD at 10:40 AM 8/11/2005
Modified by SA_SoLcHyLD at 10:40 AM 8/11/2005
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=864784
and if you don't have an impact screwdriver just go get one $10-15 is cheaper than 2-3 hours of f-ing with the stupid screws.
1. jack up car and remove wheel.
2. loosen one side of the caliper that holds the pads in.(12-14mm?)
3. remove entire caliper and pop out old pads & hang caliper from spring. (17mm?)
4. remove rotor using impact screwdriver.
5. clean rotor with brakleen and install.
6. attach caliper to hub.
7. swing caliper out, clean and compress caliper piston back into caliper (big channel locks + old pad, purpose built caliper compressor, push with hammer etc.)
8. install new pads, use a dab of brake quiet (same as high temp silicon) wipe off excess keep that **** off the braking surface.
9. one last wipe off of the rotor & swing caliper w/pads back down.
10. re-torque everything just to be sure
11. bleed brakes.
12. low speed test drive to ensure you didn't f'up.
13. bed the pads in and you're good to go....
items needed:
1. set of sockets and ratchet
2. hammer
3. impact driver
4. large channel locks or caliper compressor.
5. paper towels, brakleen, brake-quiet or high temp silicon, brake fluid.
6. bungee cord or piece of rope or zip ties... something to hold the caliper...
7. chick w/skirt on to make the job that much more pleasant and aid in bleeding the brakes...
Modified by miahmouse at 1:57 PM 8/11/2005
Modified by miahmouse at 2:10 PM 8/11/2005
and if you don't have an impact screwdriver just go get one $10-15 is cheaper than 2-3 hours of f-ing with the stupid screws.
1. jack up car and remove wheel.
2. loosen one side of the caliper that holds the pads in.(12-14mm?)
3. remove entire caliper and pop out old pads & hang caliper from spring. (17mm?)
4. remove rotor using impact screwdriver.
5. clean rotor with brakleen and install.
6. attach caliper to hub.
7. swing caliper out, clean and compress caliper piston back into caliper (big channel locks + old pad, purpose built caliper compressor, push with hammer etc.)
8. install new pads, use a dab of brake quiet (same as high temp silicon) wipe off excess keep that **** off the braking surface.
9. one last wipe off of the rotor & swing caliper w/pads back down.
10. re-torque everything just to be sure
11. bleed brakes.
12. low speed test drive to ensure you didn't f'up.
13. bed the pads in and you're good to go....
items needed:
1. set of sockets and ratchet
2. hammer
3. impact driver
4. large channel locks or caliper compressor.
5. paper towels, brakleen, brake-quiet or high temp silicon, brake fluid.
6. bungee cord or piece of rope or zip ties... something to hold the caliper...
7. chick w/skirt on to make the job that much more pleasant and aid in bleeding the brakes...
Modified by miahmouse at 1:57 PM 8/11/2005
Modified by miahmouse at 2:10 PM 8/11/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miahmouse »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=864784</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanx man
shiet but no pictures.... maaaan all good though, thanx
thanx man
shiet but no pictures.... maaaan all good though, thanx
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by northkai3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very easy use an impact driverr to take out the 2 screws holding the rotor on and replace!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had to drill out my screws, I broke my impact driver trying to take them out. However, apparently those screws' only purpose is to hold the rotor on while the car is going down the assembly line. ...... oh well, I never replaced them and I have had no problems thus far.
cheers!
I had to drill out my screws, I broke my impact driver trying to take them out. However, apparently those screws' only purpose is to hold the rotor on while the car is going down the assembly line. ...... oh well, I never replaced them and I have had no problems thus far.
cheers!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miahmouse11 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bleed brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Never bled the brakes after a pad/rotor install and I've never had a problem. Only bled them after caliper install.
-Shane
Modified by nighttrain33 at 9:15 PM 8/11/2005
Never bled the brakes after a pad/rotor install and I've never had a problem. Only bled them after caliper install.
-Shane
Modified by nighttrain33 at 9:15 PM 8/11/2005
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you dont need an impact driver....mine were on there like a bitchand heres what i did cuz i didnt have one and could drive to get one cuz i had no brakes
get #3 screwdriver, hit the end with a hammer so it bites into it and put vice grips on it.....turns with with ease
get #3 screwdriver, hit the end with a hammer so it bites into it and put vice grips on it.....turns with with ease
The screws are not needed.
Please, Please make sure you pump the brake pedal BEFORE you even start the car. This ensures the piston is extended back in its original position.
If you do fire the car up and forget to do this, You -Will Not- Be able to stop in time before you hit something.
Please, Please make sure you pump the brake pedal BEFORE you even start the car. This ensures the piston is extended back in its original position.
If you do fire the car up and forget to do this, You -Will Not- Be able to stop in time before you hit something.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1995Ex_Sedan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The screws are not needed.
Please, Please make sure you pump the brake pedal BEFORE you even start the car. This ensures the piston is extended back in its original position.
If you do fire the car up and forget to do this, You -Will Not- Be able to stop in time before you hit something.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definitely true to both.
-Shane
Please, Please make sure you pump the brake pedal BEFORE you even start the car. This ensures the piston is extended back in its original position.
If you do fire the car up and forget to do this, You -Will Not- Be able to stop in time before you hit something.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definitely true to both.
-Shane
Some one once told me that you should go backwards and brake to readjust your pistons after you change your pads and/or rotors. Can someone tell me if this is true, I am just curious if this is just a myth
A myth.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some one once told me that you should go backwards and brake to readjust your pistons after you change your pads and/or rotors. Can someone tell me if this is true, I am just curious if this is just a myth</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some one once told me that you should go backwards and brake to readjust your pistons after you change your pads and/or rotors. Can someone tell me if this is true, I am just curious if this is just a myth</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nighttrain33 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Never bled the brakes after a pad/rotor install and I've never had a problem. Only bled them after caliper install.
-Shane
Modified by nighttrain33 at 9:15 PM 8/11/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
true, it's not mandatory but it does get some of the dirty fluid that's been sitting in the calipers out...
Never bled the brakes after a pad/rotor install and I've never had a problem. Only bled them after caliper install.
-Shane
Modified by nighttrain33 at 9:15 PM 8/11/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
true, it's not mandatory but it does get some of the dirty fluid that's been sitting in the calipers out...
My mechanic friend placed a 1/16" punch, at a 30 degree angle on the edge of the screw and hammered it counter clockwise. Worked like a charm.
I just did mine a month ago and I bought an impact driver over at advance and it worked like a charm but I did have to use heat on it cause honda really torques the **** out of them. I smacked on it quite a few times and they would not budge so I got out the torch and put the heat on them and got them cherry red and after a couple wacks they came right out. I'm sure mine was the factory ones and they were on pretty good. It's very easy to do it and I used my haynes book and followed everything then I put the book away and just went and did the second side.
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