My motor's sounding pretty loud, and I'm assuming that the valves are out of spec, and need to be adjusted.

Do you have any tips on adjusting valves? I've done it before, but I just can't seem to grasp the "slight drag" concept.

What can you really consider "slight drag" with regards to adjusting valves with feeler gauges?

Post tips.

Also, I'm replacing my valve cover gasket and tube seals, any tips on that? I have some Permatex Ultra Grey (Hondabond basically), but I'm not sure how much to apply.

 

seriously, the only way to get the feel down is to do it a few times. it took me about 3 times to get it right the first time. i kept doing them too tight and the car would barely idle.

just spend the time and do it several times. it sucks doing the same job over and over, but it helps alot to get the feel down, and you really can tell the differerence when they are too tight or loose.

 

Hey, mail to me. I will introduce you.
rungrote_c@yahoo.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rungrote_c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, mail to me. I will introduce you.
rungrote_c@yahoo.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol.. no comment on this winner

 

if you are doing it on a b16/gsr/itr then try this.


Its a craftsman gear ratchet (which has a hole all the way through it, the extension and all of the sockets) with a flathead screwdriver through the middle of it. It makes doing a valve adjustment a peice of cake.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1305086

 

im me i'll help you do it sometime

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jago &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im me i'll help you do it sometime
</TD></TR></TABLE>

SWEET!

PMed you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seriously, the only way to get the feel down is to do it a few times. it took me about 3 times to get it right the first time. i kept doing them too tight and the car would barely idle.

just spend the time and do it several times. it sucks doing the same job over and over, but it helps alot to get the feel down, and you really can tell the differerence when they are too tight or loose.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats pretty wild, i never thought they were that sensitive. I mean, i did before a guy i know swapped ctr cams into his 99 Si and didn't know you had to "set" the valves afterwards. His car ran fine

I do it just tight enough so the next size up won't fit. It has worked for me on probably 20+ valve jobs i have done.

That ratchet shown above is great, i had a buddy weld a 10mm deep dish to a 10mm box wrench


The gasket- i just make sure everything is super clean (lacquer thinner) and put a dab to hold the gasket in place and a dab in the corners and over the cam end caps.

 

thanks on quoting my write up

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drewthomas14 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1305086</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I just tightened the screw till it clamped down on the feeler gauge and then slowly loosened it until the feeler gauge could move again. Make sure you've got the feeler guage properly curved around the cam, that was my first mistake which resulted in way to loose adjusting.

 

I found one at a yard sale 5 bucks some old lady was selling her old mans stuff after he kicked the can best tool ever
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are doing it on a b16/gsr/itr then try this.


Its a craftsman gear ratchet (which has a hole all the way through it, the extension and all of the sockets) with a flathead screwdriver through the middle of it. It makes doing a valve adjustment a peice of cake.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Snap-On makes a specialty tool for this, called a metric jam nut valve adjustment tool

Snap-On

 

if youre putting on a new valve cover gasket and spark plug seals i wouldnt use any permatex/hondabond... it will seal fine without it... i would only use that if you reuse the gasket

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96CivicBoostCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Snap-On makes a specialty tool for this, called a metric jam nut valve adjustment tool

Snap-On </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats the tool I use! It is well worth the investment! Its badass!

 

im sure that tool is mad money too...damn expensive snap on stuff .


ive done valve adjustments on a few cars. my main complaint is that it sucks being bent over the motor for a while doing it. makes my back feel like ****

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my main complaint is that it sucks being bent over the motor for a while doing it. makes my back feel like ****</TD></TR></TABLE>


werd.

 

Canadian tire sells a tool like that for around 10-15$ I believe.

 

the tool is only 55.00 shipped from http://www.snapon.com

 

I just got mine for 50.00 !!! Im just waiting for my valvetrain to start ticking , cause I wanna try this bastard out!!!! Snap-On

 

Alltrade 648827 10mm Jam Nut Valve Adjustment Tool.
Price: $12.99 from Amazon.com

Much better price!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My motor's sounding pretty loud, and I'm assuming that the valves are out of spec, and need to be adjusted.

Do you have any tips on adjusting valves? I've done it before, but I just can't seem to grasp the "slight drag" concept.

What can you really consider "slight drag" with regards to adjusting valves with feeler gauges?

Post tips.

Also, I'm replacing my valve cover gasket and tube seals, any tips on that? I have some Permatex Ultra Grey (Hondabond basically), but I'm not sure how much to apply. </TD></TR></TABLE>

eletric motors are called motors
gasoline powered are called engines...

valves out of spec?
its called valve lash

honda does not recommend any sealers on their gaskets.

tips? make sure the engine is up to operating temps..shut her down then proceed.
make sure the exhaust side is closed to adjust exhaust, make sure intake side is closed to adjust intake valves.

and you dont need them damn specialty tools..just grab a small flat head and a 10 mm box end wrench.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice a roni &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

eletric motors are called motors
gasoline powered are called engines...

valves out of spec?
its called valve lash

honda does not recommend any sealers on their gaskets.

tips? make sure the engine is up to operating temps..shut her down then proceed.
make sure the exhaust side is closed to adjust exhaust, make sure intake side is closed to adjust intake valves.

and you dont need them damn specialty tools..just grab a small flat head and a 10 mm box end wrench.</TD></TR></TABLE>

WOW!?

A. What are you the grammar police? And you're DEAD wrong on top of it...

Websters: MOTOR: 1. a comparatively small and powerful engine, esp. an internal-combustion engine in an automobile, motorboat, or the like.

B. Go to a shop and say that your VALVES need to be adjusted... what do you think they're going to do?...

C. Honda DOES in fact recomend the use of 4 dabs of hondabond at the cam journals for valve cover replacement... MANY people will tell you if you don't use some it will leak.

D. You are supposed to adjust the valves DEAD COLD... DEFINATELY NOT at operating temperature....

You had a shitty tone from the start of your post and EVERYTHING you said was either COMPLETELY wrong or nit picking.

YOU are the reason H-T can suck ***** some times. thanks!

To the poster...

It's really not so much a feel... you tighten the adjuster screw till there is drag... which means... you can still move the feeler guage around but it's not easy...

A good tip is to actually back the adjust screw off a touch before you retighten the lock nut... as the lock nut will turn the adjuster screw slightly when retightening it.

Also obviously follow the correct sequence... a guy I know actually said to me (and he runs a shop) oh all you really have to do is set it to TDC and do 1 and 4 and then rotate it 180 and do 2 and 3... ugh.

Another tip is recheck everything again (going through the proper sequence) after spinning the motor a few times.

Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice a roni &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">eletric motors are called motors
gasoline powered are called engines...
</TD></TR></TABLE>


motion to change all motorsports companies to enginesports

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice a roni &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">eletric motors are called motors
gasoline powered are called engines...

valves out of spec?
its called valve lash

honda does not recommend any sealers on their gaskets.

tips? make sure the engine is up to operating temps..shut her down then proceed.
make sure the exhaust side is closed to adjust exhaust, make sure intake side is closed to adjust intake valves.

and you dont need them damn specialty tools..just grab a small flat head and a 10
mm box end wrench.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you need to shut the hell up. Everything you said is wrong.

1-From experience, i didnt do it right the first time.
2-It kills your back too, i would suggest putting the car on jackstands or something. 3-Get the right tools, dont ghetto fab something.
4-Put hondabond on the seals (as proscribed on the Hondabond tube-&gt;"For use in areas not recuireing solid gaskets, such as cylinder head covers".
5-You can rotate the cams by turning on the Crank pulley, using a 19mm socket. There is a hole in the spash guard that allows you to do so.
6-ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE LOBE ON THE CAMSHAFT IS FACING YOU. That way you cannot do it wrong.
7-Make sure you have the right valve lash tolerances so you don't do it twice.