Anyone else have the problem with the continuous power going to the head unit not working when an aftermarket head unit is installed? i worked on my car for 5 hours before my sister's boyfriend finally told me what happened, and he has had it happen in his 98 civic coupe. just seems like it could be a problem for anyone else.

 

the 2 power wires got switch on install.....the red and the yellow wires are hooked up wrong

 

well i had to run a new wire from the battery to the continuous power (yellow) and they yellow and wires were wired correctly, i did them myself and i know my electonics. just never knew about that problem.

 

if you have constant power going to yellow that is your problem....yellow is suppose to be switched power

 

yeah well i got it all jimmy rigged up and it works now, and the red wire had a tag on it that said VCC and the yellow had a tag that said Battery on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikedd_87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah well i got it all jimmy rigged up and it works now, and the red wire had a tag on it that said VCC and the yellow had a tag that said Battery on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so your wiring was wrong?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikedd_87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i did them myself and i know my electonics. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmmmm

 

well i matched the colors up at least we know im not color blind.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikedd_87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i matched the colors up at least we know im not color blind.</TD></TR></TABLE>

we still dont' know that.....there is a probability that you could get them right even if you were color blind....don't feel like doing the math...but there is a probability

 

so i was drivin today and it did the same thing, i even switched the wires with no luck, i have all the wires correctly wired now, but it still doesnt push any audio out....i really need help fast, cause i am gettin a sound system in the mail, and without the head unit, i cant use anything else, would be pointless

 

bump bump i need some serious help right away

 

ok somehow i forgot to tape up the VCC wire yesterday, and i taped it up and it works now, i think it might have been shorted out when it wasnt taped.

 

wow, it happened again, this is 3 times now, and i think it will just keep doing it, it hasnt come on yet, has anyone else had this problem with pioneer, it is the DEH 1700 model.

 

ill send u my deh7600 for 150 shipped and for 250 ill send u 2 6*9 pioneer 4 ways with it shipped with the box and manual for the head unit

 

i just want to know how to fix this or if anyone else had this problem, how did they fix it.

 

I bought the harness to plug into the OEM harness. I soldered the radio harness to the aftermarket harness. No problemo.

 

listen...check out the constant power lead in the car first..it should be a white/blue stripe if i am not mistaken...but before you check anything disconnect anything that is connected to that circuit. if you have neon tubes and other unnecessary aceesories attached to that circuit...it could be more current than a factory 10A or 15A fuse can handle. just make sure you don't have 20 things running of the radio circuit alone. if you need to run additional accessories either run a new power line from either the ignition harness or directly to the battery.....but make sure you fuse within 12-18 inches of your power source to prevent losing your pride and joy in a ball of flames. I do 12-volt electronics for a living and i've seen quite a few cars catch on fire cuz sum1 was cheap and didn't wanna pay 10 bucks for a fuse holder.

 

check it
CAR wire colors NOT aftermarket radio wire colors....they are not the same
white/blue?....constant 12 volts
yellow.....accessory power...12 volts switched
black..............ground

speaker wires should be paired
reds....positive
browns...negative paired with reds

blues....positive
grays....negative paired with blues

 

take a 9 volt square battery and pair your speaker wires together
touch the red or blue wires to the positive on the battery and the brown or grays to the negative terminal on the battery
DO NOT USE A CAR BATTERY
THERE IS TOO MUCH CURRENT AND YOU'LL PROLLY BLOW YOUR SPEAKS IN ONE POP
you can use a 9 volt, or a AA, AAA, basically anything smaller than a car battery and has less current
you should hear a popping come from each pair of wires you touch to the poles on the battery
if you hear no pop you either got the wrong wires, that speaker is shot, or disconnected

 

well here is the problem, the head unit stays powered, just the sound cuts out, and everytime i go to fix it, if i have the head unit unplugged for 5-10 minutes, it works like nothing ever happened to it. this is becoming a ritual of doing this.


EDIT: also the antenna wire plug was only hangin on by the tiny wire from inside the insulation, could that be shorting it out possibly? if so i unplugged it for now to se what happens.

 

the outer wire is the ground for the antenna, not the inner one
sounds like you might have a speaker on its way out
your radio likes to see a steady impedance on each speaker output...after a little time playing...HEAT caused by the extremely rapid back and forth motion of a speakers motor assembly causes that nice 4 ohm load to fluctuate. your radio hates this and will sumtimes shut itself down...for if you try to drive a lower impedance than 4 ohms with an amplifier (your radio) your radio sees this and says i quit until the internal amp cools down and the speakers cool down. Now you might also have a speaker starting to go bad or it might be grounding itself out. if you can get your hands on a digital multimeter it will makes things real easy for you to figure out
first pull the radio and disconnect it from it's harness....test all pairs of speaker leads for impedance or ohms.... whatever
most speakers have a rest resistance of approximately 4 ohms ...it's cool if it's like 3.6 or 3.8 or 4.2 for that matter, the resistances will differ a little bit and that's ok
it's when you have a big difference in impedance that it starts to cause havoc with your tunes
if you got 3 speakers reading @4 ohms and one reading like 6 that 6 ohm speaker's the culprit
if all 4 read ok, switch your meter to continuity testing and ground one lead of the meter to chassis ground and test the speaker wires one by one to check for continuity.......if one of the speakers is gounding out a little bit your radio will see a dead short on the speaker output and shut itself down. if you either get no impedance reading or no continuity reading it's either a completely blown speaker or it's disconnected..hope this helps dude good luck

 

wow thanks for the help, yeah i have a speaker that sounds like it may have blown for some reason, but i didnt know that could be it. i check it out. thanks a lot

 

well i tested all of that with my meter and the highest ohm reading i had was like 4.7 and the lowest was 3.8 but the back left speaker is blown cause it crackles really bad, if this is the problem i will be going to pick up some new speakers today.