Pretty weird problem. At any rpm over about 1,800rpm the engine will abrubtly cut off, but once the rpms drop back down close to idle it will start back up again. It seems to be a worsing condition of a problem I was already experiencing sporactically when the engine would cut off while at cruising speed after letting off the throttle part way. When reapplying throttle input the engine wouldn't refire until it was almost floored. It only did that on occasion but now it's turned into this.

The problem also doesn't seem to occur until the engine is warmed up. I've replaced the distributor coil and that didn't fix the problem. Any ideas?

Engine is a turbocharged B18B1, GM 3 bar map, uberdata.

 

Fuel filter?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fuel filter?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doubtful, but maybe. The cut out happens at almost exactly the same rpm every time.

 

yea sounds kinda like the fuel cant keep up with the requirements. You usually got spark or not, but you can have some fuel instead of the proper amount of fuel.

Nick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sinner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea sounds kinda like the fuel cant keep up with the requirements. You usually got spark or not, but you can have some fuel instead of the proper amount of fuel.

Nick</TD></TR></TABLE>

The engine isn't bogging or slowing down, it is completely cutting out as if you turned the key off (well except that the tach and speedometer still read fine). It could still be something fuel related but I doubt it's just a clogged filter.

Like I also said the car does fine until it's warmed up.

 

Could a bad main relay cause any of these symptoms?

 

i would check the dizzy

i have a 91 accord and had the same problem

i thought it was the igniter or coil in the dizzy but it turned out to be a cam shaft seal that was leaking oil into the dizzy and ******* everything up....

again im not a pro nor do i know gm cars but it sounds like the exact same prob i had......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by se7enofseven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would check the dizzy

i have a 91 accord and had the same problem

i thought it was the igniter or coil in the dizzy but it turned out to be a cam shaft seal that was leaking oil into the dizzy and ******* everything up....

again im not a pro nor do i know gm cars but it sounds like the exact same prob i had......</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks. I guess I'll remove the whole assembly and check it out.

 

No oil is leaking into the distributor. I'm letting the car warm up and am then going to check the main relay.

 

sorry just trying to help

im not sure if gm cars have internal coils and internal igniters but i would check those aswell even if its an external coil and igniter i would check them out.

fuel filter(s), fuel pump.

iats, check your tv cable and throttle cable and after that i dunno

 

Drove the car some today and now the car can go over 1,800rpms as long as you give it full throttle. As soon as you back off the gas however you must wait until the rpms fall back down to idle before the engine will fire back up.

I'm throwing a code 3, but the car is running a GM 3 bar map so I figure that is normal. Could my GM 3 bar be going bad?


&lt; stumped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ActiveAero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drove the car some today and now the car can go over 1,800rpms as long as you give it full throttle. As soon as you back off the gas however you must wait until the rpms fall back down to idle before the engine will fire back up.

I'm throwing a code 3, but the car is running a GM 3 bar map so I figure that is normal. Could my GM 3 bar be going bad?


&lt; stumped.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not too familiar with Uberdata. Does your system go to default maps at full throttle and use the sensors at partial throttle?

Is it running rich or lean when you give it only partial throttle above 1800RPM? When does you boost start to spool?

You've probably considered those questions. It does sound like the MAP could be faulty. Can you datalog with Uberdata?

 

Yes I CAN datalog with uberdata unfortunately I don't have a laptop at the moment. As luck would have it my PLX wideband display also crapped out on me so I"m unable to see what the car is doing in terms of fuel.

 

I had a simliar problem and it turned out to be the rotor inside the distributor. The screw to secures the rotor to the shaft had gotten so hot that it melted through the plastic and would advance the timing so much the car would just idle but would cut @ 3000 rpms, so check it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a simliar problem and it turned out to be the rotor inside the distributor. The screw to secures the rotor to the shaft had gotten so hot that it melted through the plastic and would advance the timing so much the car would just idle but would cut @ 3000 rpms, so check it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It isn't the rotor screw.

I thought I finally got the problem narrowed down to the solder points going bad on my ECU where it is socketed. Several people on the uberdata sight seemed to have a very similiar problem. I got another spare socketed ECU, popped in my chip, and the problem is still there.

The funny thing is the problem gets worse the more I drive. At first it will actually run completely fine. Then a few minutes later it will start cutting out if I'm in 5th gear at low rpms and part throttle. A few minutes after that it will get progressively worse until it will cut out at anytime over 1,800rpms and won't allow the engine to fire back up until it drops back down to idle.

I wonder if my fuel pump is overheating or something of that nature. Guess I need to get a friend to ride with me and listen to it as I drive.

 

I'm still having the problem. Could my uberdata chip burn being going bad? For some reason I doubt this is it.

 

update?

 

Exact problem in 2025

 

It ended up being the throttle position sensor. Look up how to check it and recalibrate it with a multi meter. It'll hopefully be a free fix.

I had another car do something kinda the same but not exactly and it ended up being the ignition switch. I fixed that by just wiring in a $5 toggle switch for your engine hot wire. You'll still be able to use the key to start the car but the issue is when you'd let the key go back to the run position the contacts were a little bit bad so they would lose connection on occasion and killed the engine for a second. The straight hot wired switch makes it so those little terminals on the key switch no longer matter.

Hope that helps.
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Why didn't you simply replace the keyswitch/pigtail ???