throwing oil a high rpms
ok..i changed the oil on my car about 2kmiles ago...and i went 2 check it and theres none regestering on the stick...now when i bought the car the guy told me it throws oil at high rpms....but come on..not that much...when i checked the oil i was on lvl ground...and if i didnt have ne oil..wouldnt the oil light/check engine light come on...HELP PLEASE!...by the way what would cause it 2 throw oil at high rpms...?
Your car holds4.2-4.5 quarts of oil, the dipstick registers about 1.3 quarts. Add a quart, warm it up and let it sit for about 20-30 min 1 quart every 3k seems to be normal consumption on vtec motors according to the dealership for dohc b series motors. I'd reccomend a new set of rings and valveguide seals, it should bring your oil consumption rates way down as long as your cyl walls are in good shape. In a b16a I just re ringed it is showing 0 oil consumption after 4k miles with redline synthetic 5w30. What kind of oil are you using in your vehicle currently?
castoril 5W30...and i just got back from a friends house and he said that, that might not be the stock dipstick...i dunno..the motor is none vtec D16A6..but when it was re-built it was re-built with 93 civc sohc Vtec internals...but no vtec moduel or cyl...i dunno..but this is really makin me upset lol...
your weight is too light for the summer time... its thinning out and the preasure is going low.... and you are burning it. my "healthy" A6 burns oil about the same rate a Bseries Vtec would... but when i changed over from the winter oil weight to the summer (yes i waited TOO long)... the light stopped coming on...
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i run Castorl 10w30 for the summer and 5w30 for the winter... but its all going to be different... all of us run different stuff... but i know when i run the 5w30 too long into the summer and its hot... my light will come on under braking.
well...hm..so run castoril 10W30...hm...ok...it dont leak oil newhere...just throws it at High Rpms...4 wut reason i dont know..maybe i need a new engine...but this little monster has hella kick...i'm takin SOHC vtec crx's off the line and down the QT..and i can stay at a 2000si's door...i dont know...
i change oil at my job and using a syn on a honda motor with 100k on it aint smart...and if thats wut ur doin..then my friend..u need some help..much like i'm gettin from others here who arnt TRYIN TO SCREW ME OVER..please continue those of u who have a soultion to ym problem and no i aint buyin a new car
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Junkie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i change oil at my job and using a syn on a honda motor with 100k on it aint smart...and if thats wut ur doin..then my friend..u need some help..much like i'm gettin from others here who arnt TRYIN TO SCREW ME OVER..please continue those of u who have a soultion to ym problem and no i aint buyin a new car</TD></TR></TABLE>
What did you just say? If I can make out your spanglish correctly, you said it isn't safe to use synthetic? Sure it is, that is an old myth. You can change out syn and dyno all you want, when you want.
Solution to your problem so you don't have to buy a new car? Wait.. you burn oil.. so you need a new car? Instead of buying a new car, switch to M1 0w-40 or something like that, although any 40 weight oil will do.
What did you just say? If I can make out your spanglish correctly, you said it isn't safe to use synthetic? Sure it is, that is an old myth. You can change out syn and dyno all you want, when you want.
Solution to your problem so you don't have to buy a new car? Wait.. you burn oil.. so you need a new car? Instead of buying a new car, switch to M1 0w-40 or something like that, although any 40 weight oil will do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What did you just say? If I can make out your spanglish correctly, you said it isn't safe to use synthetic? Sure it is, that is an old myth. You can change out syn and dyno all you want, when you want.
Solution to your problem so you don't have to buy a new car? Wait.. you burn oil.. so you need a new car? Instead of buying a new car, switch to M1 0w-40 or something like that, although any 40 weight oil will do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, it is SAFE, but going to full Syn, itle clean Deposits keeping your seals together.
so, Leakes will fallow.
Solution to your problem so you don't have to buy a new car? Wait.. you burn oil.. so you need a new car? Instead of buying a new car, switch to M1 0w-40 or something like that, although any 40 weight oil will do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, it is SAFE, but going to full Syn, itle clean Deposits keeping your seals together.
so, Leakes will fallow.
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