opinion
i have an 89 crx hf... what motor should i buy?... im debating between b16a or a zc... but i would have 2 change wheel hubs cause the number of teeth or no? and im trying 2 find anything jdm 4 it so if ur selling something 4 my car let me kno thanks
i would get the zc. easy to install, dosen't require a lot of changes. i don't think you have to change the hubs. tranny bolts right up, even though it would be geared to high. if you get the zc tranny you have to get the half shafts from a 88-91 integ. you use si tranny use same axels.
ZC is a waste of time, it's still a D series. Flame on, it's just my opinion. Look at the money people spend building a D series, and think of what that same stuff would do in a B series of any type. I've seen fully built out the wazoo D series lay down a whopping 180whp NA...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jacobforcecrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would get the zc. easy to install, dosen't require a lot of changes. i don't think you have to change the hubs. tranny bolts right up, even though it would be geared to high. if you get the zc tranny you have to get the half shafts from a 88-91 integ. you use si tranny use same axels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have HF hubs you cannot use the Integra axles which are 2 different body styles 86-89 and then 90-93 (88-91 Integra?, you mean 88-91 civic), and Si axles will also require changing the HF hubs. So no matter what you will have to change hubs if you want to do it correctly
B16 has more performance potential. ZC is cheaper and more of a bolt in affair but not much performance.
If you have HF hubs you cannot use the Integra axles which are 2 different body styles 86-89 and then 90-93 (88-91 Integra?, you mean 88-91 civic), and Si axles will also require changing the HF hubs. So no matter what you will have to change hubs if you want to do it correctly
B16 has more performance potential. ZC is cheaper and more of a bolt in affair but not much performance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ZC is a waste of time, it's still a D series. Flame on, it's just my opinion. Look at the money people spend building a D series, and think of what that same stuff would do in a B series of any type. I've seen fully built out the wazoo D series lay down a whopping 180whp NA...</TD></TR></TABLE>
what he said
what he said
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But a B series turbo... Apples to apples please.
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hahaha
i hate when people try to compare d series to b series motors...mod for mod the b series wins every time
</TD></TR></TABLE>hahaha
i hate when people try to compare d series to b series motors...mod for mod the b series wins every time
well man you sound sort of new so first thing ill say is dont buy into the jdm hype. you think the japs are putting our blinkers on their mustangs (yes they have em ive been there)
realistically, you can get a cable tranny b16 for pretty cheap still but not f or long. jump on it. and if you want to go slow and look cool with 2 cams instead of 1, get a ZC.
or...if youre friends have told you the b16 is junk and you actually belive them, get a b18b. you can always throw a gsr head on it whenever you learn what youre doing.
or...if you have deep pockets and youre just not telling us...put a k20a2 in it. yea they make mounts and you need damn near an entire rsx from the a-pillar foward..but i think youve all seen the 11.99 k20crx with nothing but itb and header absolutely destroy a build b20 eg on mickeys. imagine what itd do with the jun k series cams. ok im off on a tangent. do what you want.
last note...make your car ride, handle and look the way you want it to before you dive into a mator swap. that swap wont be as cool if your car rides nosebleed high, has numerous ebay crap parts and is full of rust.
realistically, you can get a cable tranny b16 for pretty cheap still but not f or long. jump on it. and if you want to go slow and look cool with 2 cams instead of 1, get a ZC.
or...if youre friends have told you the b16 is junk and you actually belive them, get a b18b. you can always throw a gsr head on it whenever you learn what youre doing.
or...if you have deep pockets and youre just not telling us...put a k20a2 in it. yea they make mounts and you need damn near an entire rsx from the a-pillar foward..but i think youve all seen the 11.99 k20crx with nothing but itb and header absolutely destroy a build b20 eg on mickeys. imagine what itd do with the jun k series cams. ok im off on a tangent. do what you want.
last note...make your car ride, handle and look the way you want it to before you dive into a mator swap. that swap wont be as cool if your car rides nosebleed high, has numerous ebay crap parts and is full of rust.
I am a huge B16a1 fan.. there a well built motor and are geared decently well. For the price/performance in the short run, stay w/ the d-series as its cheaper, in the end, it will be slower than the b series regardless, but if you have the $ and the time, the b series wil put a smile on your face every time, and has lots of potential.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skinflute22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">d series turbo will smoke N/A B's all day</TD></TR></TABLE>
funnyyour bring that up reminded me last guy who said that still owes me for that race
Search and see what you want out of your motor then you know what to swap.
funnyyour bring that up reminded me last guy who said that still owes me for that race
Search and see what you want out of your motor then you know what to swap.
thanks 4 the replies... i was thinking a b16a1 and some1 told me it was alot of work but im beginning 2 think it would be worth it.. not much torque but with a car that light realy wouldnt be all 2 bad.. no turbo though... all motor.. no i dont have deep pockets, (though i wish) but a k20 would be hella nice but 2 much, swap is like 5k for the motor and whatnot... the only thing jdm i was gona do was the front clip but ima stay with the usdm with the sir hood... trying 2 find spring, stut bars, sway bars, and camber kits 4 not.. looks odd riding high on teg wheels...
Hell... if you are going to go for top dog speed and power, make it a K20 powered CRX!! It will be serious cash up front to get it right, but boy what a sweet ride that would be in the end!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Personally I would go with f20 </TD></TR></TABLE>
Me too, if only it would work as a drop in with little to no mods
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Personally I would go with f20 </TD></TR></TABLE>
Me too, if only it would work as a drop in with little to no mods
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lilstreetracer88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks 4 the replies... i was thinking a b16a1 and some1 told me it was alot of work but im beginning 2 think it would be worth it.. not much torque but with a car that light realy wouldnt be all 2 bad.. no turbo though... all motor.. no i dont have deep pockets, (though i wish) but a k20 would be hella nice but 2 much, swap is like 5k for the motor and whatnot... the only thing jdm i was gona do was the front clip but ima stay with the usdm with the sir hood... trying 2 find spring, stut bars, sway bars, and camber kits 4 not.. looks odd riding high on teg wheels... </TD></TR></TABLE>
a k20 swap in a crx is gonna be more than 5k...i think they go anywhere between 8-10k depending on if u do most of the work urself or not...if ur saying that u might have trouble with a B swap ditch the K swap idea immediately...
a b16 is fine for a rex...they make around 140 whp stock and respond well to bolt ons...a little more torque is nice so once u start to get tired of the b16 u can always go ls/cr/vtec...i used to think they were all hype but after driving a crvtec ef hatch i want one for myself...
a k20 swap in a crx is gonna be more than 5k...i think they go anywhere between 8-10k depending on if u do most of the work urself or not...if ur saying that u might have trouble with a B swap ditch the K swap idea immediately...
a b16 is fine for a rex...they make around 140 whp stock and respond well to bolt ons...a little more torque is nice so once u start to get tired of the b16 u can always go ls/cr/vtec...i used to think they were all hype but after driving a crvtec ef hatch i want one for myself...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buy whichever motor you want.
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if your never going to turbo the car then buy a ZC. Its cheaper, easier and its better than stock. if your going to turbo, then i would suggest buying the b16, and building the bottom end to handle boost. bu then you have 4 grand into the built motorsetup with turbo installed by the time your done.
turbo zc's are pretty quick, and they are cheap to replace when you blow them up. think about it, have fun with a turbo zc and blow them up at $500 a piece, you can have like 4 zc motors for what you will pay to put the b16 in the car.
turbo zc's are pretty quick, and they are cheap to replace when you blow them up. think about it, have fun with a turbo zc and blow them up at $500 a piece, you can have like 4 zc motors for what you will pay to put the b16 in the car.
My official vote is go SiR I B16 (for that lovely cable tranny) and keep it N/A, just stroke the bitch, get a good cold air intake (K&N is one of the best out there) and build up the head for more low end grunt and great top end endurance. It is very versatile and relatively inexpensive to maintain (compared to the ITR/CTR motors) and the EF/ED is the perfect chassis to benefit from the high reving fun that it provides!
If you have the cash to burn (at least $7-$8k) get that K20 you want, but be prepared to chop the **** out of your front end.
If you have the cash to burn (at least $7-$8k) get that K20 you want, but be prepared to chop the **** out of your front end.
Not that I know of, but there are plenty of B series stuff available in the marketplace. Go check it out when you get a chance.
I am staying D series for the money aspect of it. I have body and suspension that need attention before I go higher power.
I am staying D series for the money aspect of it. I have body and suspension that need attention before I go higher power.
got the new edition of honda tuning... they dropped a K20 in a rex.. pretty ironic isnt it... looks like i could do alot on my own have 2 get custon axles and what not and they have a kit 4 the swap... priced motor and trans and that around 6k so looks a little outa my price range but man that would be godly.. bad *** motor in such a light car... hella smashin



