Like the title says, my J1 tranny will not go into gear. I blew my car up a year ago, I figured the tranny was ok because I could shift through all the gears still, but it was not running. If the car is off I can shift into all gears, but when the car is running what ever gear the tranny is in I can not get it out. Has anyone ever had or heard fo this? What could be wrong and do you thing the tranny's shot? If it's shot can gear speed rebuild it or do they need a good tranny to work with. If gearspeed not cnot rebuild it what site/store do you that sell just trannys? Thanks for the insite!

 

would check the clutch cable first, but i would guess its done for. just my guesss though

 

I just talk to my techs in service and they said that it could be cable. To try and adjust it, and pray!

 

It's the clutch cable, tighten it up (hold up the "arm" and turn the night clockwise); this raises the engagement point, it's set too low right now. Also keep in mind that if it grinds at high rpm, you should set the engagement point higher.

 

it could be your pressure plate. I had the same problem were u could shift it when the car is not running but counldnt shift it when it was running.

 

I could not get over to my garage last night, but I am off tomorrow so I will try the adjustign the cable.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90crxlst &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it could be your pressure plate. I had the same problem were u could shift it when the car is not running but counldnt shift it when it was running. </TD></TR></TABLE>

so was the pressure plate bad, not mounted right... how did you fix it?

 

hmmm.. had the same problem never figured it out motor was going so I just swapped the whole motor out

I did adjust my cable, change fluid, replace linkage (with spare one I had), then I knew I either had to replace the tranny or the clutch setup. Decided to replace the whole motor .

I hope to tear into the tranny this winter though to see if that was the problem but I am thinking it had to do with the clutch setup (clutch, pressure plate or throw out bearing).

-Shane

 

I had the same problem in my friends girls car (ls integra) thought it was the cable so I put in a brand new cable from acura for her did't help at all did a clutch,pp,throw out bearing, and pilot bearing and the thing goes in and out of gear fine now........put the car in gear with the car off start the car and start to drive in first when you go to come out of gear if it is really hard to get out or doesnt come out at all I will bet its the clutch setup like I said I have encountered this problem before.........Good luck with it

 

thanks for the info - I will check the cable tomorrow and try putting it in first and starting to drive and shift out.. if it will let me.

So you think it could be the pp and clutch and not the actual tranny huh? I would have not thought of that, but it makes sense since the tranny will go into gear with the car off. THANKS

 

well think about it.. if your clutch isn't disengaging then ur tranny will keep rotating at the same speed as your crank making it imposible to shift... when you are cruising and you try to shift you put the clutch in right.. well when you do this do the rpms drop?

 

yeah I never thought about it really. Still new to working on cars. I always paid people to do it for me then one day I woke up and wanted to be the person that made the car run 10-11 instead of just being the owner of a car that does. Again thanks for all the input so far

 

when u push the clutch in do your rpms drop?

 

I can not answer that question honestly i have not been in the car in 2 days i really did not pay attention when I tried putting the car into gear. I was more pissed off that the car would not go. I am going to get off early tonight and will work on it a little tonight and tomorrow. I will let you know tonight. Thanks for helping me figure this crap out, it is nice to see more than one person trying to help someone out on here. Since I am new at working on car myself I ask some dumb/easy questions and most the time people do not help. So I have to make everything a trial by error and it takes a long time.

 

thank you for helping, all I had to do was adjust the cable like you said.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skinflute22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when u push the clutch in do your rpms drop?</TD></TR></TABLE>
but to answer your question, I watched my AVAFC contorller and at ilde i wwas 825-863 when clutch was in i was 828-858, I would not say it was really lower but it did nto hit as high as 863.

I do have another question if you guys want to help. If I hit the throttle and let off the car dies. And I am getting a CEL 6. Where in the HELMS or on what web site can I find all the different CEL codes? I am going to search after I post but any other info would be greatly apprecaited. THANKS EVERYONE

 

CEL 6 is a water temp I found out. I am guessing that is the plug on the thermostat housing that I do not have plugged up. I am ODBO and I do not have a plug for that. I guess something else must to wrong. Any advice?

 

you need to plug that in. or splice into existing connector that will just match up the wires.

 

what would I splice into? isn't there the same sensor somewhere on the obdo block? I am pretty sure yes, but can not remember where it might be located.

anyone know why the car might die after I push the throttle? do I need to turn the idle screw on the throttle body? I have not played with that and the throttle body is brand new. Has anyone done this on the RPM thottle bodys, so you can tell me where the screw might be? Thanks again for all the help, it is getting close now. I can not wait to drive it, it has been a year now

 

well, i got the ect plugged in and seen that the vaccum line from the IM to the fuel regulator was unplugged and the car does not die anymore.

I do have another question, I hope you are all still willing to help. I let teh car run for 15 minutes and my top rad hose got so hot that I could not touch it. the bottom hose was cool. I have searched and seen that this is normal, but my valve cover was to hot to touch as well. Isn't 12 minutes a little to soon for the car to get that hot. It worried me so I shut the car off, when I did shut the car off the temp was not reading hot what so ever. I ordered a new themostat today. Is that normal for the vavle cover to get that hot? I do not remember my last motor getting that hot.

What do you guys have your valve lash set at. Right now I am at .008 and there is still a clicking noise. I was told to go down to .006, but my helms book say .017 is where you should be at. I have CTR cams and Ferrea valve spring and retainers if that matters. I again wany to thank all of you for helping me. I will be driving my car by Wed, the first time in over a year now. But at least I built it this time with all the H-T members help!