i AM CHANGING MY BREAK SHOES AND ROTARS ON 95 ACCORD SEDAN 4CYL I CANT FIGURE OUT HOW TO TAKE OFF ROTOR. CAN YOU HELP?

 

YOU NEED TO PULL OFF THE HUB TO GET THE ROTOR OFF

 

IS THAT THE SMALL 3 INCH PLATE IN THE VERY CENTER?

 

OR IS IT THE THE BIGGER PART WITH HOLDS THE LUG NUT BOLTS? AND IF SO IS IT JUST THOSE 2 SMALL SCREWS ON THE OUTSIDE, BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY RUSTED AND IM AFRAID THAT I MAY STRIP THEM?

 

I CAN DEFINATELY HELP! I'LL BE THERE IN A FEW MINUTES, WAIT FOR ME OUTSIDE.

USE AN IMPACT DRIVER TO TAKE OUT THE 2 OUTSIDE SCREWS, AND YOU HAVE TO UPON THE HUB, IF YOU'RE OVERWHELMED BY THE WORK, TAKE IT TO A PROFFESSIONAL, BRAKES ARENT SOMETHING THAT YOU SHOULD TAKE VERY LIGHTLY.

OH YEAH, CAN YOU STOP TYPING IN CAPS? KTHXBYE

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by di3go &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I CAN DEFINATELY HELP! I'LL BE THERE IN A FEW MINUTES, WAIT FOR ME OUTSIDE.

USE AN IMPACT DRIVER TO TAKE OUT THE 2 OUTSIDE SCREWS, AND YOU HAVE TO UPON THE HUB, IF YOU'RE OVERWHELMED BY THE WORK, TAKE IT TO A PROFFESSIONAL, BRAKES ARENT SOMETHING THAT YOU SHOULD TAKE VERY LIGHTLY.

OH YEAH, CAN YOU STOP TYPING IN CAPS? KTHXBYE</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey smart *** did you even look at the year of the car he is talking about ... if you did you would notice that it is a 95 accord and on the 95 accord it uses the hub over rotor design witch means you either need to use a slide hammer to remove the hub or you need to remove the lower ball joint and remove the 4 bolts from the back side of the spindle ...


next time read the post before flaming ... noob

 

hey smartass, if you actually read what I wrote, fully that is. you'll notice I am just telling him how to take off the two screws, he was saying they were rusted and is afraid to strip them. I never said you had to take them off or anything. and I said you had to upon the hub, now I really dont have a clue why I said upon, but I meanr remove the hub (which IIRC is exactly what you said!). so thanks for letting me know on how to do a brake job on my car, its great help, considering, I've already done it before and am about to embark on it again. Actually, IIRC, I do a brake job on an accord, oh about....once a week. But I didnt expect you to know that, considering I never made it known, but, now you know.

So, as a taste of your own medicine. 'next time read the post before flaming ... (i took out the noob part, since you're not a "noob")' and by reading, I mean fully, ofcourse. But then again, its typical honda-tech fashion to flame those that are flaming, even though in reality, they are actually telling the person the correct method of doing something, I just decided to type in all capital letters since everyone else in this thread did, and as we know Hondas are all about 'me-toing' so why not do the same thing on the board, but you ruined the fun and as we know this is going to ensue in an argument (and you're probably going to make some sort of comment on my spelling and/or grammar skills, just because it always happens on these boards). For added argument, should I not have told him to take it to a proffessional since brakes arent really something to **** with if you dont know what you're doing? becuase if I was wrong there to, let me know!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDLR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OR IS IT THE THE BIGGER PART WITH HOLDS THE LUG NUT BOLTS? AND IF SO IS IT JUST THOSE 2 SMALL SCREWS ON THE OUTSIDE, BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY RUSTED AND IM AFRAID THAT I MAY STRIP THEM?</TD></TR></TABLE>

95 accord does not have the 2 small screws on the rotors ..... hub over rotor ..it has 4 14mm bolts ,,which screws are u talking about???

 

ya need to take off the entire hub, by pressingit out of the knuckle, unbolting the 4 14mm bolts wont get it out.

 

Just to clarify, I didn't see where it stated whether you were changing the front or rear rotors? I know you said "break shoes" but maybe that was a misprint and you meant pads?

It was assumed you were refering to the front rotors which are, like everyone said, hub-over-rotor. But then you said something about 2 screws which would seem like your refering to the rear rotors. And since you didn't state what model your Accord is, it is unknown if you have rear rotors and could be asking for help about those.

If you are refering to the front rotors, do a search. This has been covered many times. You should be able to find plenty of info to help you out. If you are refering to the rear rotors, like di3go said, use an impact driver to loosen those two screws. Otherwise you run a high risk of stripping them. You might strip them with the impact driver if anyways if they are really torqued or rusted in there. If this happens your going to need to drill the screws out.

 

for the front rotors you have to take the wheel off then disconnect the brake line from the caliper. next unbolt the brake line off of the upper controll arms and the vss sensor. next take the pins out of the castle bolts located on the lowerball joint, the upperball joint and the tie rod end, then unbolt the castle bolts using a 17mm socket.

next using a hamer hit the lowerball joint untill it breaks loose. if you dont have a press like me you have to take the whole assembly off and take it to a shop. it cost me 45$ to do both. if you have a puller or some short off hand held press you dont have to take it off you can pull the rotors off from on the car but you still have to unbolt the lowerball joint and tie rod end to turn the rotor and hub enough to take the axle out and unbolt the four 14mm bolts on the back side. i did it the other way b/c i didnt have access to any of that. the reason you have to do all of that is because the rotor is bolted on the wheel bearing , but if thats not enough they also press it on the wheel bearing which is why you have to go through all of these steps. so what could be a 30min brake job is more like 3hours

for the 45$ i got the old rotors pulled off and the new ones pressed on
after that put on in reverse order and bleed the brakes like the book says

hope it helps


Modified by THEROPE at 1:33 PM 8/8/2005

 

btw please caps kill

do us all a favor and take the capslock off

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya need to take off the entire hub, by pressingit out of the knuckle, unbolting the 4 14mm bolts wont get it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is why you have to use a press or do it like me and take it to a shop for them to do it

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you are refering to the rear rotors, like di3go said, use an impact driver to loosen those two screws. Otherwise you run a high risk of stripping them. You might strip them with the impact driver if anyways if they are really torqued or rusted in there. If this happens your going to need to drill the screws out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

btw front rotor jod on a 95 accord, 295$ just for labor

 

you don't need to unbolt the brake line from the caliper. That just adds air to the system, drains fluid, requires more work to assemble and is not needed. Just unbolt the claiper from the bracket and zip tie it up out of the way. Much easier and takes less time.

Also, you don't always need a press. If all goes as planned the bearing/hub/rotor assembly should drop away from the knuckle after you remove the four bolts from the back side of the knuckle. Those hold the bearing to the knuckle. The rotor is bolted to the hub and the hub is pressed into the bearing. After removing the four bolts on the back of the knuckle, the assembly should drop away. If it doesn't it's because it's rusted in there. You can try to pound it out if you wish. Mine was rusted in there so I just unbolted the knuckles from the car and had a machine shop do it. Cost me 25 for each side. But if your assembly does drop away as it should, you then just need to unbolt the rotor from the hub and then slide it over/past the bearing. Then just assembly in reverse order.

I agree though, if you can't get the assembly to come away from the knuckle and you have a ride to a shop, just take the knuckle off and have a shop take it all apart and put it back together. It's much easier IMO.

Also, if you do take it to a shop or even if you remove the bearing from the knuckle make sure clean that hole real good and maybe put a little grease in there to prevent it from rusting up on you again.

 

you are right about the the brake lines but i like to change my fluid when i do my rotors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDLR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i AM CHANGING MY BREAK SHOES AND ROTARS ON 95 ACCORD SEDAN 4CYL I CANT FIGURE OUT HOW TO TAKE OFF ROTOR. CAN YOU HELP?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have a question for you
you state hear that you are changing you shoes/pads. are you also changing your rotors?

b/c if your not you dont have to take the rotors off to change the pads/shoes

not trying to be a "smart ***" just trying to read the statement right

 

I justed wanted to make sure people knew that. It's not a bad idea to change your fluid at that time though. I think some people over look the fluid a lot.

When I changed my rotors/pads the last time on my Accord, I also changed the fluid. Even though I put on a good set of rotors and pads all around, I think changing the fluid made the most improvement.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I justed wanted to make sure people knew that. It's not a bad idea to change your fluid at that time though. I think some people over look the fluid a lot.

When I changed my rotors/pads the last time on my Accord, I also changed the fluid. Even though I put on a good set of rotors and pads all around, I think changing the fluid made the most improvement.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THEROPE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a question for you
you state hear that you are changing you shoes/pads. are you also changing your rotors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDLR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i AM CHANGING MY BREAK SHOES AND ROTARS ON 95 ACCORD SEDAN 4CYL I CANT FIGURE OUT HOW TO TAKE OFF ROTOR. CAN YOU HELP?</TD></TR></TABLE>



Spelling may not be right but...

 

ahh didnt see that nevermind about my other post that was my fault

 

The electrical wire going to the wheel knuckle is not the VSS, it is the WSS my friend. The VSS is for the speedo, the WSS is for ABS, BUT on newer cars the WSS will pull double duty, why not, it is possible and its out there now. OBD III (CAN).

 

sorry though it was all conected

but now that you said it i do remember following the wss wires into the engine bay and they did go to one of the abs boxs

 

if u are replacing frt rotors u dont need a press nor take it to a shop the hardest thing is to get the 36mm axle nut off,,,,
here it goes while car still on ground u need to loosen axle nut u need a 36mm socket , a big pry bar and a big friend to step on pry bar make sure car is in park and e-brake is on also the 4 14mm bolts that hold rotor to hub on ,once loose do not remove yet , raise car up in the air, remove the axle nut totally, remove the 2 17mm bolts that hold the brake caliper and swing it up out of the way, remove cotter pin and 17mm castle nut from lower ball joint, with a hammer hit the knuckle where the ball joint goes in to separate ball joing from knucle, lift knuckle assembly up , tap an axle with a hammer to get it out of the hub, swing knuckle assembly out of the way, get a big screwdriver pop the axle out of the tranny u might lose a bit of fluid but refill tranny if so ,,,,once axle is out on the cack side of the knuckle there are 4 10mm 12 point bolts, remove those 4 bolts ..now since u are replacing rotors get a hammer and hit the rotors ,,the rotor/hub assembly will come out, once on the ground remove the 14mm bolts that hold rotor to bub ,, voila' no need to go to shop or need a puller ..

 

i hear what you are saying but 9 times out of 10 it dosnt happen like that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THEROPE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hear what you are saying but 9 times out of 10 it dosnt happen like that </TD></TR></TABLE>

why not it happens 10 out of 10 meaning it should work every single time it has for me and i have done a **** load of them