OMG help =) feel like an idiot recaro mounting bracket to seat deal
so i have my SPG provided by wonderful sponsor Recaro 
and i have a DC2 base made by speedware motorsports along with there sliders which are recaro's and recaro side mount adaptors
I can basically see where everything goes (not feeling that stupid today), but i must be missing hardware or something .
On top of that i dont wanna assume what washers they would like me to place where or anything like that . So anybopdy have any nice directions or anything like that?

and i have a DC2 base made by speedware motorsports along with there sliders which are recaro's and recaro side mount adaptors
I can basically see where everything goes (not feeling that stupid today), but i must be missing hardware or something .
On top of that i dont wanna assume what washers they would like me to place where or anything like that . So anybopdy have any nice directions or anything like that?
Pics may help. Sidemounts to seats should just be two bolts, one at the front side and one at the rear side of the seat on each side.
Anyone know the threadpitch or what grade bolts I should be using?
I too have a big pile of sliders, sidemounts, and floor adapters but no bolts/washers/instructions.
Thinking about making a trek down to HomeDepot to grab some bolts and locking nuts.
I too have a big pile of sliders, sidemounts, and floor adapters but no bolts/washers/instructions.
Thinking about making a trek down to HomeDepot to grab some bolts and locking nuts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FritzInTN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Thinking about making a trek down to HomeDepot to grab some bolts and locking nuts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
All my seat hardware is either SAE thread or Metric. A trip to Home Depot will only lead to frustration. OHS & Lowes both have a better fastener selection than HD in my neck of the woods. Still, a good fastener dealer or industrial hardware store is a place you need to find, anyway...
All my seat hardware is either SAE thread or Metric. A trip to Home Depot will only lead to frustration. OHS & Lowes both have a better fastener selection than HD in my neck of the woods. Still, a good fastener dealer or industrial hardware store is a place you need to find, anyway...
Yeah they gave me enough of the hex cap 1.25 bolts i just gotta go pick up some nuts and washers from coast fab. For some reason i cant put home depot or any of that hardware on a racecar gotta use the aerospace type fasteners cause carrol smith said so.
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Ryan,
Isnt Inconel meant for its temperature properties?
I have a set of Titanium springs for sale!!!!! fits stock shocks tho
but maybe then they will work for Konis?
Isnt Inconel meant for its temperature properties?
I have a set of Titanium springs for sale!!!!! fits stock shocks tho
but maybe then they will work for Konis?
Strength properties hence using thin gage tubing and saving weight
back to the seat im putting it in this weekend with titanium zip ties and loc tite on the zip ties
back to the seat im putting it in this weekend with titanium zip ties and loc tite on the zip ties
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BSME »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isnt Inconel meant for its temperature properties?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, it is. On the Champ Car motors, we switched from stainless steel to inconel 718 because they had too much problems with the stainless cracking. Fatigue life with stainless sucked and they would crack around the bolt flanges.
Most professional racecars used thin walled inconel tubing for the exhaust because it can put up with the high temps and still be strong enough.
I'd go with beryllium....its the strongest and lightest.
Who cares if its toxic!
Yes, it is. On the Champ Car motors, we switched from stainless steel to inconel 718 because they had too much problems with the stainless cracking. Fatigue life with stainless sucked and they would crack around the bolt flanges.
Most professional racecars used thin walled inconel tubing for the exhaust because it can put up with the high temps and still be strong enough.
I'd go with beryllium....its the strongest and lightest.
Who cares if its toxic!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecvoodoo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why don`t you just make some inconel hardware for superior weight savings?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Inconel is heavy, use some AZ31B Magnesium bar stock for the ultimate in lightweight. In my bicycle racing days, I machined all of my fasteners in either titanium, aluminum, and magnesium. And believe or not, even Lance Armstong, Steve Hegg, and Thurlow Rogers used my fasteners without failure back in the day.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Inconel is heavy, use some AZ31B Magnesium bar stock for the ultimate in lightweight. In my bicycle racing days, I machined all of my fasteners in either titanium, aluminum, and magnesium. And believe or not, even Lance Armstong, Steve Hegg, and Thurlow Rogers used my fasteners without failure back in the day.
I'm still stickin with my Titanium Zipties and loctite, you can take your magnesium else where
Casey who needs to to coast fab today and purchase some fasteners
and agreeing with Mr J mac yo tite fo shizzle holla inco is heavy it's just strong so it works great in a tubing application becuse there you can use thing gages
Casey who needs to to coast fab today and purchase some fasteners
and agreeing with Mr J mac yo tite fo shizzle holla inco is heavy it's just strong so it works great in a tubing application becuse there you can use thing gages
Actually, for the seat bracket bolts you need good shear strength. Fatigue would not be an issue. Use a good quality 10.9 or 12.9 bolt for that application.
Yep, that's why it's used in Formula One exhausts. I haven't heard about a Formula One header failure in a long time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey@Burns »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and agreeing with Mr J mac yo tite fo shizzle holla inco is heavy it's just strong so it works great in a tubing application becuse there you can use thing gages</TD></TR></TABLE>
They're going to make you take English for that college degree, too, right?
They're going to make you take English for that college degree, too, right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They're going to make you take English for that college degree, too, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey John, don't be hard on the boy. He's still young and there is help - fo shizzle.
They're going to make you take English for that college degree, too, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey John, don't be hard on the boy. He's still young and there is help - fo shizzle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yep, that's why it's used in Formula One exhausts. I haven't heard about a Formula One header failure in a long time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shumi had one last year... I forget where - Sepang maybe?
Shumi had one last year... I forget where - Sepang maybe?
Back beat word on the street is that they are running wall thickness near .018 but that could just be poppycock (use of an english term thats what you mean right thawley?)
Racecar Engineering had an interesting article on Formula One headers a couple of year ago that was good reading.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey@Burns »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back beat word on the street is that they are running wall thickness near .018 but that could just be poppycock (use of an english term thats what you mean right thawley?)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Casey, it's okay to be yourself. Don't listen to that big, bad John Thawley.
Casey, it's okay to be yourself. Don't listen to that big, bad John Thawley.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
All my seat hardware is either SAE thread or Metric. A trip to Home Depot will only lead to frustration. OHS & Lowes both have a better fastener selection than HD in my neck of the woods. Still, a good fastener dealer or industrial hardware store is a place you need to find, anyway...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nonsense! I have frequented that establisment more than enough times to either find the correct parts or "adapt" the application to accept SAE grade 8 bolts. Typically they will have a "metric" cabinet, about 6 feet long by 5 feet high at the end of the hardware aisle, past the high school teens stealing bolts to fix their huffy, but before the two employees talking about the party at jenny's tonight.
<- Brian, whose Impreza is held together by a surprising number 1/4" fine bolts.
All my seat hardware is either SAE thread or Metric. A trip to Home Depot will only lead to frustration. OHS & Lowes both have a better fastener selection than HD in my neck of the woods. Still, a good fastener dealer or industrial hardware store is a place you need to find, anyway...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nonsense! I have frequented that establisment more than enough times to either find the correct parts or "adapt" the application to accept SAE grade 8 bolts. Typically they will have a "metric" cabinet, about 6 feet long by 5 feet high at the end of the hardware aisle, past the high school teens stealing bolts to fix their huffy, but before the two employees talking about the party at jenny's tonight.
<- Brian, whose Impreza is held together by a surprising number 1/4" fine bolts.



