Just curious if anyone has one, did a search and really did not find any threads. I found a couple for under $500 , but not sure how good they are. So does anyone have any recommendations ? Or does anyone have pics of pieces they cut themselves on a mini mill ?

Just noticed, the ones I looked at seemed to be Harbor freight brands, or equal to them.



Here are the specs for the Grizzly mill:

Spindle Taper: MT #3
Head Travel: 9-7/8"
Head Tilt: 45 degrees L/R
Max. distance spindle to table: 11-1/2"
Swing: 12-3/4"
Longitudinal Travel: 9-1/4"
Cross-slide travel: 4"
Table size: 3-5/8" x 15-3/4"
Speeds: Variable
Speed Range: 0-2500 RPM
Motor Size: 3/4 HP
Shipping Weight: 153 lbs.

 

I would like to have one. I wonder where you would find good bits in Morse taper #3?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to have one. I wonder where you would find good bits in Morse taper #3?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sure you can find them some where

 

Those things are junk... they chatter to much.

 

I'm sure they would chatter like hell if you are trying to plow through metal like with a full sized mill. Probably OK if you take 0.005 a pass.

 

I think this might turn into a harbor freight bandsaw debate, some like the bandsaw, and some don't

 

.005" is hardly anything.

 

I guess before anything i should acually ask what the mill will be used to do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExploitedRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.005" is hardly anything. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Yeah, 0.005 is hardly anything but it is enough to resurface a flange in two or three passes.

Oh, I get it... Was the original poster planning on making flanges with that little thing? Yeah, I agree this machine would suck for major work like that. But for resurfacing, precision drilling, and simple operations like that I don't see a problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, 0.005 is hardly anything but it is enough to resurface a flange in two or three passes.

Oh, I get it... Was the original poster planning on making flanges with that little thing? Yeah, I agree this machine would suck for major work like that. But for resurfacing, precision drilling, and simple operations like that I don't see a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually I'm not looking to make flanges, making guns actually and other things.

 

I am a bit of a garage gunsmith. That said, I own a Grizley mini mill, and fun gunsmithing, its great. I could not imagin not having it. The last project I completed, was a 1911. PM me if you want some pics.

 

I don't have any experience with a mini mill myself, but the people I've talked to say that it's great for light work. The only people that seem to have a problem with them have access to their own full size mills

There are quite a few companies that make them. I'd suggest getting one with an R-8 taper as there is much more used tooling available.

Check out http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini...l.htm for good information and reviews.

Also the learning center on http://www.littlemachineshop.com is a great resource.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjardy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am a bit of a garage gunsmith. That said, I own a Grizley mini mill, and fun gunsmithing, its great. I could not imagin not having it. The last project I completed, was a 1911. PM me if you want some pics.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's good to know

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Keyhole &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't have any experience with a mini mill myself, but the people I've talked to say that it's great for light work. The only people that seem to have a problem with them have access to their own full size mills

There are quite a few companies that make them. I'd suggest getting one with an R-8 taper as there is much more used tooling available.

Check out http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini...l.htm for good information and reviews.

Also the learning center on http://www.littlemachineshop.com is a great resource.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the first link, the second I did not. Thank you, great charts on that site. Looking at the harbor freight one right now, plus I have a coupon so it would be even cheaper then the advertised price.

Anything else I should look out for ?

 

http://www.mscindustrial.com

And whats the difference between the #3 Morse and the R8 Taper?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mightyt11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.mscindustrial.com

And whats the difference between the #3 Morse and the R8 Taper? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Also curious about that.

 

R8 Taper is standard on Bridgeport and other large mills. Since thats the case, there is more used and affordable tooling available.

I'm not sure where #3 Morse comes from, but used tooling is scarce.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Keyhole &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">R8 Taper is standard on Bridgeport and other large mills. Since thats the case, there is more used and affordable tooling available.

I'm not sure where #3 Morse comes from, but used tooling is scarce.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Morse # 3 is smaller that R8 and is generally used in smaller machines. Or in my case, the tail stock of my lathe is cut for a MT#3


Rob


Modified by rjardy at 2:18 AM 8/14/2005

 

both sizes of collets are easily atainable.


Rob

 

it wouldn't work for resurfacing flanges. even larger drill/mill type machines don't work very well.

it would be alright for hobby type stuff like rc parts ...etc..

 

A full sized mill should not have any issues planning a surface of a flange.


Rob

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legendboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it wouldn't work for resurfacing flanges. even larger drill/mill type machines don't work very well.

it would be alright for hobby type stuff like rc parts ...etc..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why though ?

 

A good mill needs stiffness. There's no way to get that stiffness without the bulk of a full size machine. A large machine doesn't guarantee good success, but it's a good start. It takes about $1500 before you begin to get into the good ones. Like other said, it's all be degree about what you need for a given job. Doing little stuff in brass? Any machine will do that fine. But doing large hard material requires a very stiff machine. I'd recommend something like this with a 6" x 26" table.

There's a Yahoo group just for this: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/6x26millingmachines/

 

The accuracy of a machined part is only as good as the rigidity of the setup. Most of the larger mills weigh 500+ pounds. The mini mills like you have here can be made abit more solid by filling the tube solid with cement but it makes it that much heavier. These things are really meant to be set in place and left there. They are a bitch to move from place to place unless you have a forklift avaialble.

The taper that people are speaking of for those that dont know is the inside of the spindle. There are specific types of tapers. I think these guys said r8 is common so you can type in r8 on google and find what you need tooling wise. There are adaptors for the #3 but they are a pita IMO&gt;.

I like that mill in the yahoo groups pic. I hate yahoo groups. The mill in the pic is cool it actually has a knee to it .

I think a standard econo bridgeport style/size mill starts around $3k from most industrial supply houses. They are big and burly as mentioned above.

I cant see where one of these machines that has been trammed in could not surface a manifold flange. I guess if it wasnt trammed in then you could do it huh? This assuming you can adjust the angle of the head and all that. If its a fixed head then you are right you prolly cannot surface a manifold.