well, i decided to up the boost to my z6 12 psi on my t3/t4 turbo. but i have a 2.5mm cometic headgasket and arp headstuds. i have a fully built z6. i torqued them down to arp torque spec. the problem is when i first up the boost, i drove it hard on the high way for a sec, then i pulled over to the gastation to get some milk and then i saw radiator fluid shooting all over the ground, i look under the hood and saw the resevoir tank over filling. so i checked my dip stick and it seem just fine. you guys have any answer? i only have been boosting my car for 1k miles so far and my motor only has 3k miles. i broke my motor in properly and everything. what could be the problem?

 

ttt someone must tell me

 

sounds like a blown headgasket to me. Same thing happened to me, swapped the HG and it was fine. After I would drive, the overfill bottle would overflow and boil.

 

any other options beside blown hg? i spent so much money and i can't afford this to happen to me

 

Hey Calvin,
Sounds like ur lifting the head. Or atleast on high boost ur pushing it up just enough to pressurize the coolant jacket.

-Drew

 

yeah it might be the HG also, Ive read up on cometic vs OEM HG's and some people have good experiences with cometics and some have had bad one. I prefer OEM hg's. Have someone else take a look at it. Try retorquing the headstuds again and see what happens

 

i just flushed the radiator and refilled it, then bleeded it. but i went out for a drive, i noticed that i have just a little bit radiator fluid in the resevoir, is it normal to have SOME fluid in the resevoir? i think i might try a new radiator cap so see if it help? you guys thing a radiator cap would do any different?

 

ttt

 

TTT would radiator cap be the case? my car isn't over heating or anything

 

i noticed that when my car cooled down, the coolant in the resevoir went back into the cooling system. is that normal? even if i did have a blown head gasket? when i went to retorque my arp head studs, they were still tight to their specs

 

Back your timing down a bit...

What are you using for engine management?

 

Well ya fluid is supposed to go inbetween your overflow and back into the motor depending on how warm it is. Only thing I can say is if the head is NOT lifting, them maybe you have air in your coolant. I'd say reflush it and bleed out all the air and if its still boiling over, then its probably the head lifting.

Yager-

 

umm did you ask if your suppost to have fluid in the resivor? yeah there is a line where it should be at. Fill the resivor to proper level with 50/50 and I guess you can grab a cap out of a junk yard to try that (free so why not if you might suspect it) Do a Compression test and cooling system pressure test.

 

well when i drove my car with no boosting, and it did not spill everywhere, it just went a little bit over max, but after the car cooled down the cooling system suck all of it back in. my friend that has a turbo hatch told me that i have a big fmic, and it could be getting in the cooling way of the radiator, so i should get a full length radiator? what do you guys think. since i have a fully built motor. i have:

d16z6 motor:
Gude ported head
crower valve springs
crower retainter
crower cam
aem cams
cometic 2.5mm head gasket
arp head studs
darton sleeved block
wiseco 8.8:1 compression pistons
scat rods
clutch master stg 3 clutch
unorthodox racing flywheel
hm.. some other stuff i probably forgot

but i have turbonetics t3/t4 60trim turbo
750cc injectors
aem fuel rail
b&m fpr

but to get to the point, with what im running with my motor be making it hotter than a normal motor? so should i upgrade to a afull length radiator?

 

I doubt it has anything to do with your radiator. How much timing are you running? How did you torque down your head?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back your timing down a bit...

What are you using for engine management?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I'm sorry but you've got a blown head gasket.

It's a very common problem with the D16s. Do a search and you'll see how many of them have failed just on honda tch.

When you replace the HG please go back to an OEM one. Cometic is a 50/50 proposition.

Sorry to break it to ya.

 

I highly doubt your motor runs hot. It is most likely the sleeves shifting/head lifting problem as others have indicated.

The seal is broken, you need to put a new gasket on and make sure the block and head are flat. Then retune (if you have real managment) for lower cyl pressure and 0 knock.

 

im running uberdata with conservative timing, and i torque my head stud to 77lbs.

 

im suprised no one has told you..you very well may have a bad radiator cap. is the temp gauge ever reading hot?

 

well i went to autozone and purchased a cap, still no luck. hmm should i try oem cap? i took off my valve cover, no sign of any coolant, dip stick no coolant. radiator fluid still not mix with oil. what could be the case. i dont want to believe its the head gasket, but if i have to take the truth.

 

any other opinions?

 

Rip it apart and drop in a new headgasket and get back to us. I had the same problem has you and it turned out to be a blown HG so change it.

 

i came to a final verdict, lets just go with a new gasket. cometic again or oem?

 

any other brands?

 

OEM is all you need.

Every single engine that I've seen shot coolant into the overflow tank has been the result of a toasted headgasket.