Hey all,

Please refrain from flaming me for wanting one of these!

Can anyone recommend an honest and reputable place that might have one in stock? HT members/supporters prefferred........

Thanks in advance,

Jon

 

Not that I would ever buy one, use one or even recommend one but if you must have one ... again, don't know why you would ... I saw them in the jegs catalog I just received.

 

Well, I might buy one, but probably wouldn't recommend one, until I've tried it myself.....

Thanks for the advice, unf., Jeg's website doesn't show anything... do you happen to have the part number/price/etc. handy? And do they specifically list the diff. for the 88-91 CRX????

Thanks again, BTW, it's for an ITACRX

 

CAMP 1320 has Quaife and the OBX

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=643295

Here is the thread


Modified by ncturnal at 1:51 PM 8/5/2005


Modified by ncturnal at 2:25 PM 8/5/2005

 

Bought mine off the existing ebay seller, TD Racing I believe. No issues with service or delivery.

Everybody poo poo's these things, generally without trying them out but I actually race my '89 CRX Si in ITA and haven't had any problems. I've put about 15 hours of hard use on it since the install and no issues. Rather than reuse the existing OE diff's bearings, bought new ones as well as a new speedo gear [ I hate when a gauge is lifeless, even something as pointless as a speedo on the track] .

Sure I had to shim the case to make it work but there have been no issues to date. If you can't figure the shimming out, you have no right to be cracking open the case in the first place.

The axles have been out several times since the install with no issues. Others have complained about the axles sticking with their OBX unit but this has not happened to me. If I had to do it all over again I'd make the same choice.

The Quaife maybe a high quality piece but I couldn't justify the added expense. I took the difference in cost I saved and bought a 4.9 fd instead.

This is for my dedicated race car, never street driven.

Good luck.

BTW, where the hell do you race in the Thunder Bay area?

Robert J.
Vancouver

 

Hello Mr. Noodles,

Thanks for the advice, and I have to agree with you about taking the extra steps to make the diff work. I plan to do the install myself, so I know it'll be done right, and have no worries that with enough fettling I'll be able to make it work.

As for the axle difficulties, I think it may be an isolated problem with the B series diffs rather than the D series. I hope. But, again, being aware of the potential, I can again make sure it's not an issue.

I initially contacted Tuning Depot (TD) but they aren't answering emails and their website is down.

The news that these are available from Jegs (the WalMart of performance, along with Summit) is good. All my transactions are long distance, and the assurance that they'll be around for a while is nice.

As for where I race, I race with the Winnipeg Sports Car Club in WCMA sanctioned races, 5 times a year. It's a seven hour tow for me, but there are only two race groups: open wheel, and closed wheel. We get a practice, a qualifying, and THREE races. Each day!! Lots of track time for a relatively low entry fee.

The closest operating track to us in the states in Road America. Too bad Brainerd has dropped off the map, but I guess my 4.9FD (Courtesy of Kiwi/Special projects and SRR) might be a little low for the mile long front straight.

Jon

 

Jon,

I thought maybe you'd race at RA but this too is probably a helleva drive. Does WCMA race at Gimili?

I too bought the 4.9 SRR fd from Kiwi and did both this and the OBX at the same time. It was a tight fit to install the ring gear in the case and you might want to examine the clearances between the outermost teeth and the inside of the case.

I haven't run the car down at Seattle yet [ a really long front straight ] but I thought I calculated a theoretical speed of 128 mph at 7200 rpm with the 4.9. I don't believe our cars have the hp to overcome any more aero drag than that.

Let me know if you have any problems.

Robert J.

 

If you buy a used one, you can pretty much be sure that the axles will come out of it. I imagine you saw the other threads on this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LBHgti &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you buy a used one, you can pretty much be sure that the axles will come out of it. I imagine you saw the other threads on this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I won't likely find a used one...... and still can't find a source other than questionable ebay sellers. Although, I'm working on it.....

Jeg's, BTW, doesn't sell them. I called.

j

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Noodles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jon,

I thought maybe you'd race at RA but this too is probably a helleva drive. Does WCMA race at Gimili?

I too bought the 4.9 SRR fd from Kiwi and did both this and the OBX at the same time. It was a tight fit to install the ring gear in the case and you might want to examine the clearances between the outermost teeth and the inside of the case.

I haven't run the car down at Seattle yet [ a really long front straight ] but I thought I calculated a theoretical speed of 128 mph at 7200 rpm with the 4.9. I don't believe our cars have the hp to overcome any more aero drag than that.

Let me know if you have any problems.

Robert J.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks again for the advice

And yes, we race at Gimli, all 5 races of our season. Someday I'll make the trek south to get my *** kicked at a "big" track!

 

Try http://www.vsracing.net
Viren is a good guy to deal with.

 

J,
My bad. I just looked at the Jegs catalog again and it calls out the "Phanton Grip" unit, not the OBX unit. Again, my bad!

 

That's OK, I have a few leads, and a few feelers out, Camp1320, VS racing, and one ebay seller, so I should be able to round one up.

Thanks all,

Jon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Madness &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try http://www.vsracing.net
Viren is a good guy to deal with.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I ordered one from Viren. Sounds like a nice guy on the phone, very polite and helpful.

Thanks for the advice. It should be shipping next week(ish)!

J

 

We use an OBX b-series unit in our road race car, no problems at all. Again, most people that complain about them are garbage dumps - meaning, they read about it on h-t and collect it in their heads and repeat the garbage to others without ever trying it themselves.

3 blind mice sydrome all over H-T - watch out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G3-TEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We use an OBX b-series unit in our road race car, no problems at all. Again, most people that complain about them are garbage dumps - meaning, they read about it on h-t and collect it in their heads and repeat the garbage to others without ever trying it themselves.

3 blind mice sydrome all over H-T - watch out </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, as I sit staring at my brand new Quaife that just came in from camp1320, I am reminded of the brand new OBX LSD that is installed in my tranny right now.

Here is my review of the OBX LSD:

It was .033" wider than the stock unit. The stock shim in the tranny was .057". Fine. So I need a .024" shim. I go to Honda, and what do I find? Their thinnest shim is 1mm, or .03937". ****. Ok, custom machined shim time.

Now I have a .024" shim. Cool. Time to press on the bearings. ****!!!! The god damn diff bolts stick up so far that I can't press the bearing all of the way down on the ring gear side. I had to pull off the brand new carrier bearing, and remove all of the bolts that hold the diff together. I find that one of the counterbores for the bolts was not finish machined. Time to grind all of the bolt heads thinner for clearance.

Now the bearings are on, and It's time for the ring gear. You must be kidding. The OBX diff body is so much larger than the stock diff, that all of the ring gear bolts bind when they are tightened. Time to grind .020" off of the washer head of the ring gear bolts. Now with the thinnest wall Snap-On socket I could find, I was able to assemble the ring gear to the diff.

It's now in the tranny, and time to insert the axles. No problems.

First drive, what the hell? I just installed remanufactured axles, and it shudders badly under load. Ok, I've gotten bad axles before, so back to the parts store.

Came back with brand new axles. Normal installation, no problems.

Out on the road again, same shudder. I pull it into the driveway and jack it up. I can seriously move the axle cup within the diff .110", as measured with a dial indicator.

Basically the axle bores are tapered, or way out of tolerance. My OBX LSD is a piece of ****. Many people have great success with the B-Series unit, but the D-Series models are really fucked.

Yes, I will be pulling my tranny on Saturday and installing my new Quaife. I thought I could save $400 by going OBX, but now I have spent over $600 more considering I ended up purchasing two new sets of 80mm carrier bearings.

 

Hi Jim,

Thanks for posting your experiences here.

One thing I might point out, though: it's not unusual to be able to "wiggle" the axles in the tranny a little. .110"? though, may be a bit much, but not sure. I'll check my car tonight and let you know. Either way, not sure it would cause a shudder. Did you change your clutch at the same time?

Jon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon Nelson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi Jim,

Thanks for posting your experiences here.

One thing I might point out, though: it's not unusual to be able to "wiggle" the axles in the tranny a little. .110"? though, may be a bit much, but not sure. I'll check my car tonight and let you know. Either way, not sure it would cause a shudder. Did you change your clutch at the same time?

Jon

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually the entire drivetrain is brand new. It is not engine or clutch related. The shudder is symptomatic of a defective tri-pot cup CV joint. It only shudders under load, and engine RPM does not alter the shudder frequency. The axle sockets in the OBX diff are simply sloppy. My stock diff at unknown mileage has .0028" clearance for the axle shaft. The Quaife has around .0012". Also, the spiral grooves for axle lubrication on the OBX are very poorly machined. It might have been a bad casting that was opened up a little too much to achieve 100% cleanup. The Quaife features very precision spiral cut oil passages.

My recommendation to you before installation would be to measure the axle sockets for size as well as taper. It might save you the headache I am now experiencing.