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brakes. d.i.y. guide write up.

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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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tommycai's Avatar
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From: panama city, fl, united states
Default brakes. d.i.y. guide write up.

the brakes i have just changed out with rotora drilled slotted brake discs. axiss ultimate pads and rotora stainless steel brake lines. be prepared to spend some time.

1. take off wheel best done if cross from last one example as if making a path of the star. This helps not to hang the rim/ wheel by a few bolts on the hub bearing and strip them. This can be a pain to change believe me

2. lift the car better if you have a lift but if all you have are jacks i feel ya . Lift the car from the subframe from the middle of the car in the front and then place to jack stands close to the front tire on the side frame you will see there will be a difference between the two the part where you put the jack stand is more solid and short in length almost paralel to the side mirror. If you don't and you accidentally hit the hydralic jack good luck getting out.

3. the pads are not very hard to take off there will be two bolts small i believe around 10mm or 12mm the pads will come off of the rotor.

4. to remove the eniter pad holder (not sure what to call it. rest of it lol). there will be two 14mm bolts they are a pain to get off do yourself a favor and get a torque bar.

5. using a impact rotor hammer thats what this shop i worked at called it. a piece that looks like an allen key (feris key either or) and a large handle you will put up against two screws on the rotor and hammer very hard. as you hammer this tool make sure you are trying to turn counterclock wise (lefty loosey righty tighty just remember that) best if you hold it with palm down and pulling it like riding a motorcycle.

6. if rotor does not come off that means it just has a little rust you will need a rubber mallet and hammer the rotor spinning it continuosly to make sure you do not only losen one part and strip screws again. if you do they are 12.5 just to let you know lol ).

7. ss. brake lines one part will be attached to the brake pad hold this will leak when you pull it off get either a bottle to reuse it if you wish or buy a better brake fluid and add as neccessary. 10mm i believe is all you need for this and a monkey wrench.

there will be another 10mm screw halfway up to firewall underneath spring. there will be a screw by the firewall but first you must use a tool to take off the clip from the begining of the brake line i used a flat head and covered it with schotch tape so i wouldn't scratch anything. i'm just very maticulous. The brake line will pull through a small hole that is on a tap by the firewall.

8. replace things in reverse with the other parts that you want to and do all steps in reverse to put together obviously, but just making sure everyone gets it so there will be no confusion if any.

thats only the front brakes the rear brakes are basically the same but you will need a tool shops have or you can go and buy one forgot what it is called but it looks like the size of a halfdollar and it turns the parts of the caliper that pushed the pad onto the rotor this is a must you can not turn this by hand or screw driver unless you are extremely strong but just buy the tool make it easier on yourself thats why they created these tools.

i'll write up bleeding the brakes, rear wiper windshield shave kit up later. If you want something else i'll try and help with the information that i know i don't consider myself very good in mechanics but i'll try if i can thanks everyone.

.tommycai.
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 09:55 PM
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common_cents's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: BaLLLLLLLinNN Park, CA
Default Re: brakes. d.i.y. guide write up. (tommycai)

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