Ok I have ordered a B18c motor, and I am soon going to order the Full-Race ProStreet AC Stage 3 Turbo Kit(620whp). I am lookin to build my motor for 450whp or around there, but the more the better LOL. But I am looking for help in getting the internals, fuel, etc. built up to get me that 450whp with tuning. So this is what I have looked at, let me know what is good, what is bad, what isn't needed, and all that good stuff. Thanks

Spoon Sports Spark Plugs
Spoon Sports Spark Plug Wires
MSD SCI Ignition
MSD Modified Distrubitor Cap
MSD Blaster 2 Coil (Chrome)
PWR Half Size Radiator
Flex-a-lite Radiator Fan
Greddy Radiator Hose Kit
Greddy Radiator Cap
Spoon Sports Radiator Mounts Aluminum (Silver)
JG Edlebrock Victor X Intake Manifold
Precision 780cc Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Hondata S200 Base System w/Boost HON-S200B
Spoon Sports Thermostat
Thermal High Flow Cat
Skunk2 Racing Valve Set High Compression (Intake/Exhaust)
Crower Valve Spring/Retainer Set
AEBS T-Sleeve
Crower Connecting Rods
APR Head Stud Kit
APR Main Stud Kit
APR Pressure Plate Bolt Kit
APR Balancer Bolt Kit
Greddy Oil Catch Pan
Moroso Aluminum Oil Pan
Hondata Intake Gasket
Enjoi Engine Mounts
APR Header Stud Kit
APR Header Bolt Kit
APR Flywheel Kit
APR Cam Bolt Kit
JE Pistons

And should I Port/Polish my motor? And also I need help on the following parts, if any of them are needed aftermarket. Thanks

FUEL REGULATOR
OIL PUMP
WATER PUMP
THROTTLE BODY
FUEL RAIL
BEARINGS
VALVE SEALS
CAMS
CAMSHAFT

 

have you bothered to look up what forum you're posting in at all...thats where i'd start

 

You'll get A LOT more help in the forced induction forum,good luck with your build, sounds sweet.

 

 

Spoon Sports Spark Plugs <-- get ngks
Spoon Sports Spark Plug Wires <-- get ngk
MSD SCI Ignition <-- not nesesary but some will tell you otherwise
MSD Modified Distrubitor Cap <-- sure
MSD Blaster 2 Coil (Chrome) <-- get the blaster SS and just run it without the box
PWR Half Size Radiator <-- sure
Flex-a-lite Radiator Fan <-- sure
Greddy Radiator Hose Kit <-- seriously d00d... what is that going to do for ya?
Greddy Radiator Cap <-- again... waste of money
Spoon Sports Radiator Mounts Aluminum (Silver) <-- negative... waste of money
JG Edlebrock Victor X Intake Manifold <-- not needed but isn't going to hurt
Precision 780cc Fuel Injectors <-- go with 880's or 1000's, they are the same price
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump <-- get the HP one
Hondata S200 Base System w/Boost HON-S200B <-- i'd go with neptune if you can
Spoon Sports Thermostat <-- NO
Thermal High Flow Cat <-- can't you get a test pipe?
Skunk2 Racing Valve Set High Compression (Intake/Exhaust) <-- not needed, but won't hurt... don't need high compression for sure
Crower Valve Spring/Retainer Set <-- sure, i'd get another brand for less
AEBS T-Sleeve <-- not needed
Crower Connecting Rods <-- sure, i'd get eagle's though
APR Head Stud Kit <-- sure
APR Main Stud Kit <-- not sure about that
APR Pressure Plate Bolt Kit <-- huh?
APR Balancer Bolt Kit <-- never heard of this
Greddy Oil Catch Pan <-- get something cheaper (catch Can)
Moroso Aluminum Oil Pan <-- why not
Hondata Intake Gasket <-- sure
Enjoi Engine Mounts <-- never heard of it... i got jimfab
APR Header Stud Kit <-- d00d, you just need the head studs
APR Header Bolt Kit <-- see above
APR Flywheel Kit <-- see 2 above
APR Cam Bolt Kit <-- see 3 above
JE Pistons <-- sure, i'd get CP though

And should I Port/Polish my motor? NO

And also I need help on the following parts, if any of them are needed aftermarket. Thanks

FUEL REGULATOR <-- yes
OIL PUMP <-- OEM
WATER PUMP <-- OEM
THROTTLE BODY <-- stock will work
FUEL RAIL <-- stock will work
BEARINGS <-- OEM
VALVE SEALS <-- OEM
CAMS <-- stock is fine
CAMSHAFT <-- uhmm... what?

 

Spoon Sports Spark Plugs <-- NGK BKR7E
Spoon Sports Spark Plug Wires <-- personal choice, I use MSD and like them.
MSD SCI Ignition <-- not nesesary, but I have the msd digital 6 plus and like it
MSD Modified Distrubitor Cap <-- sure
MSD Blaster 2 Coil (Chrome) <-- get the blaster SS
PWR Half Size Radiator <-- sure
Flex-a-lite Radiator Fan <-- sure
Greddy Radiator Hose Kit <-- BIG waste of money
Greddy Radiator Cap <-- waste of money
Spoon Sports Radiator Mounts Aluminum (Silver) <-- waste of money
JG Edlebrock Victor X Intake Manifold <-- sure
Precision 780cc Fuel Injectors <-- go with 880's or 1000's
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump <-- get the HP one
Hondata S200 Base System w/Boost HON-S200B <-- personal choice, but definitely get an EMS....autronics
Spoon Sports Thermostat <-- waste of money
Thermal High Flow Cat <-- magnaflow high flow cats are good
Skunk2 Racing Valve Set High Compression (Intake/Exhaust) <-- sure
Crower Valve Spring/Retainer Set <-- sure or skunk 2 or something similar
AEBS T-Sleeve <-- sure
Crower Connecting Rods <-- yes, or puater/oliver/eagle/blah blah blah
APR Head Stud Kit <-- yes
APR Main Stud Kit <-- maybe, not sure
APR Pressure Plate Bolt Kit <--
APR Balancer Bolt Kit <--
Greddy Oil Catch Pan <-- get something cheaper (catch Can)....or Endyn
Moroso Aluminum Oil Pan <-- sure if you want
Hondata Intake Gasket <-- yes
Enjoi Engine Mounts <-- those or hasports
APR Header Stud Kit <-- d00d, you just need the head studs
APR Header Bolt Kit <-- see above
APR Flywheel Kit <-- see 2 above
APR Cam Bolt Kit <-- see 3 above
JE Pistons <-- sure....pistons are personal choice, its not one is better than the other (but people will definitely argue the opposite)

And should I Port/Polish my motor? if you want

And also I need help on the following parts, if any of them are needed aftermarket. Thanks

FUEL REGULATOR <-- yes...aeromotive
OIL PUMP <-- OEM...gsr or itr
WATER PUMP <-- OEM...gsr or itr
THROTTLE BODY <-- get the edelbrock 65mm to mate up with the manifold
FUEL RAIL <-- I'd feel safer with Golden Eagle (if you are using 1000cc's)
BEARINGS <-- OEM
VALVE SEALS <-- OEM
CAMS <-- sure (assuming you mean cam gears)
CAMSHAFT <-- OEM GSR's are fine

 

u sponsered by ARP or u just like to spend money u don't have to?

 

I suggest im'ing "wantboost" he is your age and know's just about everything there is to know about FI. Oh, and he learned it the way everyone should do it, searching!

But if you ask me, he is still a punk j/k

 

Thanks for everyones input, most of the stuff you all say as waste of money wasnt for the actually performance but to dress up the motor. I am also new here so I really dont know who to talk to about what or anything. But really thanks alot for everyones insite and help. I will go thru and mod what you all suggest and see if that setup will be fine, but I am still learning. Thanks for not dissing me on and just helping. Later

 

and remember it's not bad to over build your motor....main thing is TUNING....so so important

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benjithx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I suggest im'ing "wantboost" he is your age and know's just about everything there is to know about FI. Oh, and he learned it the way everyone should do it, searching!

But if you ask me, he is still a punk j/k</TD></TR></TABLE>

eff joo
im no punk, without me you'd have a motor-less car, lol

and yes i am a search *****, but i still own joo

-------------------------------

Spoon Sports Spark Plugs - ngk's
Spoon Sports Spark Plug Wires - ngk's
MSD SCI Ignition- why not
MSD Modified Distrubitor Cap - yup
MSD Blaster 2 Coil (Chrome) - balster ss or the hvc coild and use a 6-series ignition
PWR Half Size Radiator - yup
Flex-a-lite Radiator Fan - spend 60 bucks and get noe from viren (b18bturbo)
Greddy Radiator Hose Kit - wate of money, but im using ss barided lines ( ihave a reason which i will explain later)
Greddy Radiator Cap - higher coolant pressure can be good
Spoon Sports Radiator Mounts Aluminum (Silver) - sotck ones work just fine unless its for hte bling factor me=guilty
JG Edlebrock Victor X Intake Manifold - yep, but you wont see a real power increase until 6k or so
Precision 780cc Fuel Inectors - go with 1000cc, same price and more room to grow
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump - get the hp one, or go aeromotive like me
Hondata S200 Base System w/Boost HON-S200B - that works, but get datalogging as well or wait for the s300 to come out
Spoon Sports Thermostat - opens sooner and keeps coolant temps down, i love my mugen one, also get the fan switch to match
Thermal High Flow Cat - unless you are obd1, you dont need a cat as obd2 cars dont get the sniffer test
Skunk2 Racing Valve Set High Compression (Intake/Exhaust) - if you are doing valves go oversized
Crower Valve Spring/Retainer Set - im running these but will most likely swap them out for some rocket parts
AEBS T-Sleeve - good sleeves, but i like my darton mid's
Crower Connecting Rods - good stuff, i personally run maley's tho
APR Head Stud Kit - needed, nuff said
APR Main Stud Kit - oem main studs are fine and if you get these you msut gt a line bore done which adds about 200 to the price tag
APR Pressure Plate Bolt Kit - stock is fine - loctite them
APR Balancer Bolt Kit - stock is fine - loctite them
Greddy Oil Catch Pan - i think you mean oil catch can... it works, although the endyn is a better setup
Moroso Aluminum Oil Pan - dont get the drag one, get the road-race pan, the drag pan has problems with oil pickup during braking and cornering
Hondata Intake Gasket - meh, nice to have but you can get that 5extra hp by bumping the boost 1psi
Enjoi Engine Mounts - or hasport or just get inserts
APR Header Stud Kit - stock works fine
APR Header Bolt Kit - same
APR Flywheel Kit - same
APR Cam Bolt Kit - same
JE Pistons - or cp's

And should I Port/Polish my motor? And also I need help on the following parts, if any of them are needed aftermarket. Thanks

yes, port and polish the head

FUEL REGULATOR - aeromotive external here
OIL PUMP - itr for me
WATER PUMP - this is the reason i am using braided lines. i am running a golden eagle electric external wter pump kit
THROTTLE BODY - 75mm mustang tb for me
FUEL RAIL - erl for me, i would use an upgraded rail, bigger bore = more fuel flow
BEARINGS - acl
VALVE SEALS - ferrera on my motor
CAMS
CAMSHAFT - running ITR's until i pick up my costom grinds from the laskey's

 

port and polished head is definatly a waste of money for 450hp... there are cheaper ways to get there. sleeves are also not nesecarry all though many will say they are. if you want proof, look at some of the recent cars jeff evans has tuned to over 600hp on stock sleeves. intake manifold is really not needed either... but its not too expensive. same with throttle body.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

eff joo
im no punk, without me you'd have a motor-less car, lol

and yes i am a search *****, but i still own joo

</TD></TR></TABLE>

...punk

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ndogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">port and polished head is definatly a waste of money for 450hp... there are cheaper ways to get there. sleeves are also not nesecarry all though many will say they are. if you want proof, look at some of the recent cars jeff evans has tuned to over 600hp on stock sleeves. intake manifold is really not needed either... but its not too expensive. same with throttle body.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok about the port and polishing the heads, why is it a waste of money? Cause one dude tuned his to 600whp and prolly didnt pull out with the car? Maybe he just proved a point, but I want to drive mine and not just put it on a dyno and make a number. I rather be safe and sorry, maybe I dont know what I am talkin about but what is to say I wont build my car and have 500whp? or even more....then what am I goin to do. I never said I would stop at 450whp, I just wanna get there and see how my car runs and then maybe I will want to push even more power out of it. That is why I am goin to go with a bigger turbo so I have more power potential.

 

Add some ITR cams to that since you are going all out like that.

 

hell i'd rather get blox turbo cams or gsr cams

 

I dont see what's wrong with porting and polishing either. I think they just mean it costs too much because your engine could easily make the 450whp without it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedlineKustomz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Flex-a-lite Radiator Fan
Precision 780cc Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Hondata S200 Base System w/Boost HON-S200B
APR Header Stud Kit

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats all ya need

 

Definitely port and polish. You want to spend money on all that crap you listed but don't want the port/polish? It's way more important.

People tend to forget the basics. The goal of building a good motor is to achieve maximum efficiency. Headwork is one of the best ways to do this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiKid86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hell i'd rather get blox turbo cams or gsr cams </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok for the GSR cam it comes in my motor since I am buying a B18c which is a Integra GSR motor. So I dont have to worry about that

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quik sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Quote, originally posted by RedlineKustomz »
Flex-a-lite Radiator Fan
Precision 780cc Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Hondata S200 Base System w/Boost HON-S200B
APR Header Stud Kit


thats all ya need</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why does everyone keep cutting down the list of stuff I need? Pistons, Rods, Sleeves, Fuel, etc. I think to many think these may not be important parts but they help and they are some what of a safety move. I dont wanna build this motor then my pistons get fired then have to rip apart the block and put new pistons it in. I know eventually I will have to rebuild it, but using stock parts they will get fired a whole lot faster than aftermarket cause of the past wear on them. I would rather build it to hold lots of HP and have lots of potential power. Than to build it to hold 450whp and end up puttin 475whp on it and it messing up. I dont wanna put alot of stress on my motor or turbo to make this power. To me if I could tune my car to run 450whp and have the potential 700whp it doesnt matter as long as my motor is strong, not put under alot of stress, and can run that horsepower safety. Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedlineKustomz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want to drive mine and not just put it on a dyno and make a number. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That 610 WHP car runs NDRA T4 and NHRA SFWD, and I bet is beat on a lot more and a lot harder than your car is. It was ran all last year at 500-ish WHP as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedlineKustomz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why does everyone keep cutting down the list of stuff I need? </TD></TR></TABLE>


Because you asked us to?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedlineKustomz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
let me know what is good, what is bad, what isn't needed, and all that good stuff</TD></TR></TABLE>

And also because you included a bunch of stupid **** you don't need. For example, all the different "APR"(sic) bolt kits you listed. Just get the head studs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedlineKustomz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why does everyone keep cutting down the list of stuff I need? Pistons, Rods, Sleeves, Fuel, etc. I think to many think these may not be important parts but they help and they are some what of a safety move.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because you asked us to? </TD></TR></TABLE>

hehehe, he walked right into that one

The list that ndogg and Dunc wrote up is a good list. A lot of that stuff that you say you are doing for "dress up" aren't necessary. For example the Spoon spark plugs...nobody is gonna see them s what's the point? I can get a set of NGK's from Kragen for $2 a plug.

You can stick to OEM on things like plugs, wires, radiator hose, radiator cap, thermostat, flywheel bolts, cam gear bolts, header bolts/studs, oil and water pump and cams. Some of the following I would change cause based on what I've read on here, the parts you put on your list arent very high quality.

Skunk2 Racing Valve High Comp - Get SuperTech's instead and dont get high-comp valves.
Crower Valve Spring/Retainer Set - Go with SuperTech's here too
Crower Connecting Rods - Eagle rods if you're on a budget or Manleys/Pauters if you want stronger rods
JE Pistons - I hear a lot of good things about CP pistons and I would recommend them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Skunk2 Racing Valve High Comp - Get SuperTech's instead and dont get high-comp valves.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was told by a super reputable engine builder that SuperTech makes the valves/springs/retainers for Skunk2. But he said "don't quote me on that" so I'm not going to use his name

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Crower Connecting Rods - Eagle rods if you're on a budget or Manleys/Pauters if you want stronger rods</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm using Crowers I-beams. They blow away eagle, but I wouldn't pay the $700 retail for them. You can find them used for a decent price. I don't like Eagle rods. Manley/Pauter are the best, but they cost a pretty penny.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JE Pistons - I hear a lot of good things about CP pistons and I would recommend them</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm also using CP pistons right now. They are the **** I used Arias pistons before and they were good too. But I like CP better. I think J.E. is on the bottom of the food chain when it comes to forged pistons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told by a super reputable engine builder that SuperTech makes the valves/springs/retainers for Skunk2. But he said "don't quote me on that" so I'm not going to use his name </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yah I remember reading one or two threads on here about somebodies S2 valves dropping on them. Not sure if it was installer error, or product defect. But it's enough to make me worry about them a little. I haven't heard anything bad about the S2 valvesprings though.