Swap or Turbo?
I have a 05ep3, i know K20a3 is not that great engine, people say theres no
potential.
Should i swap for RSX type-S engine or GReddy Turbo and mod the engine?
I want advise and opinions
potential.
Should i swap for RSX type-S engine or GReddy Turbo and mod the engine?
I want advise and opinions
What kind of power output are you looking for? Is this a daily driver, or a purpose built track car, or something in between? What sort of budget are you looking at? These are all questions that must be answered first.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shingo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im looking least 300whp ,and it a daily driver car</TD></TR></TABLE>
300whp from NA?
good luck. be ready to run 14.5 compression with free flowing cams and revving ur car to 10-11k. stroke it to up the displacement. bore it out to up displacement. and hopefully u can afford c16 everytime u need fuel. advanced timings..
300whp from NA?
good luck. be ready to run 14.5 compression with free flowing cams and revving ur car to 10-11k. stroke it to up the displacement. bore it out to up displacement. and hopefully u can afford c16 everytime u need fuel. advanced timings..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eMpAtHy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
300whp from NA?
good luck. be ready to run 14.5 compression with free flowing cams and revving ur car to 10-11k. stroke it to up the displacement. bore it out to up displacement. and hopefully u can afford c16 everytime u need fuel. advanced tim
ings..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im saying which will be better choice, turbocharge the K20a3 for 300whp
or swap k20az1
300whp from NA?
good luck. be ready to run 14.5 compression with free flowing cams and revving ur car to 10-11k. stroke it to up the displacement. bore it out to up displacement. and hopefully u can afford c16 everytime u need fuel. advanced tim
ings..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im saying which will be better choice, turbocharge the K20a3 for 300whp
or swap k20az1
if you are willing to deal with the trouble and high maintenance of a turbo system, then 300whp is far more easily reachable than going with a naturally aspirated engine.
also keep in mind that the k20a3 has the lowest compression of all the k20 engines, which is beneficial when boosting.
also keep in mind that the k20a3 has the lowest compression of all the k20 engines, which is beneficial when boosting.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by korean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are willing to deal with the trouble and high maintenance of a turbo system, then 300whp is far more easily reachable than going with a naturally aspirated engine.
also keep in mind that the k20a3 has the lowest compression of all the k20 engines, which is beneficial when boosting. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup. 300whp with a boosted A3 is within reach. Any of the turbo kits out there can reach it (or come very close) with a few extra upgrades.
also keep in mind that the k20a3 has the lowest compression of all the k20 engines, which is beneficial when boosting. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup. 300whp with a boosted A3 is within reach. Any of the turbo kits out there can reach it (or come very close) with a few extra upgrades.
In order to reach 300whp you will need to turbo basically any engine you would swap in there. There is no way a daily driven k20a2 swap would make 300whp without a turbo. I sugest going turbo on the K20A3 you have in there as a swap would still need to be turbo'ed to reach your goal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by korean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can always upgrade the turbo kit parts, such as a bigger intercooler, bigger turbo, or make the turbo system more reliable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Most importantly... get K-Pro and find a good tuner!
Most importantly... get K-Pro and find a good tuner!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shingo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do i need bigger brake if is 300whp turbo?
I dont think stock ep3 brake can handle </TD></TR></TABLE>
Increasing rotor size is costly and not terribly helpful at reducing brake distances most often. Best way to improve braking distances is to upgrade the pads, fluid, and possibly get stainless steel brake lines.
I dont think stock ep3 brake can handle </TD></TR></TABLE>
Increasing rotor size is costly and not terribly helpful at reducing brake distances most often. Best way to improve braking distances is to upgrade the pads, fluid, and possibly get stainless steel brake lines.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR Phil »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Increasing rotor size is costly and not terribly helpful at reducing brake distances most often. Best way to improve braking distances is to upgrade the pads, fluid, and possibly get stainless steel brake lines.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree, start by getting better pads as they can make a large difference in the stopping power of a car without adding more rotating mass. If thats not good enough move on to the other things like brake lines etc and then do the larger rotors if you still want to.
I agree, start by getting better pads as they can make a large difference in the stopping power of a car without adding more rotating mass. If thats not good enough move on to the other things like brake lines etc and then do the larger rotors if you still want to.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eMpAtHy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
300whp from NA?
good luck. be ready to run 14.5 compression with free flowing cams and revving ur car to 10-11k. stroke it to up the displacement. bore it out to up displacement. and hopefully u can afford c16 everytime u need fuel. advanced timings..</TD></TR></TABLE>
that isnt what he asked. im assuming he meant to ask, " can i get 300 hp out of this k20a3 or should i get the k20a2 and turbo that instead?"
both are achievable. it would be cheaper to turbo your immediate engine but in the longrun you could run less psi on the k20a2 and get more power resulting in more reliability. i dont know if you want to be replacing engines alot but k20a3's are very cheap to get your hands on. i recently purchased a k20a3 with 5 sp transmission for 750.00.
its up to you man.
300whp from NA?
good luck. be ready to run 14.5 compression with free flowing cams and revving ur car to 10-11k. stroke it to up the displacement. bore it out to up displacement. and hopefully u can afford c16 everytime u need fuel. advanced timings..</TD></TR></TABLE>
that isnt what he asked. im assuming he meant to ask, " can i get 300 hp out of this k20a3 or should i get the k20a2 and turbo that instead?"
both are achievable. it would be cheaper to turbo your immediate engine but in the longrun you could run less psi on the k20a2 and get more power resulting in more reliability. i dont know if you want to be replacing engines alot but k20a3's are very cheap to get your hands on. i recently purchased a k20a3 with 5 sp transmission for 750.00.
its up to you man.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">300 wheel would be acheivable but kiss reliability good bye.</TD></TR></TABLE>
300whp is the "magic number" for a boosted A3. Reliability will be fine, but I wouldn't go any higher.
300whp is the "magic number" for a boosted A3. Reliability will be fine, but I wouldn't go any higher.
I'll back up what most other people have said. Boost the A3 and you can get 300whp without too much extra.
As far as the brakes, unless you track the car, or do some severe mountain/canyon runs then you don't need big brakes. Stock sized rotors will work fine along with some new pads, stainless steel lines, and high temp brake fluid. All the big rotors do is to allow your brakes to handle more heat, they don't really help your car stop faster. You should already be able to lock up your brakes/go into ABS with your stock brakes, and you can't do any more than that. The best stopping upgrade you can do if you haven't already is your tires. Remember, your brakes don't stop the car, they stop wheel which stops the tire, and it is the tire which stops the car.
As far as the brakes, unless you track the car, or do some severe mountain/canyon runs then you don't need big brakes. Stock sized rotors will work fine along with some new pads, stainless steel lines, and high temp brake fluid. All the big rotors do is to allow your brakes to handle more heat, they don't really help your car stop faster. You should already be able to lock up your brakes/go into ABS with your stock brakes, and you can't do any more than that. The best stopping upgrade you can do if you haven't already is your tires. Remember, your brakes don't stop the car, they stop wheel which stops the tire, and it is the tire which stops the car.



