whats the redline
if its the stock engine on the stock cluster
then its 6500
or do you mean whats the highest rev can it handle pass factory recommended redline?
Modified by komat at 10:08 PM 8/2/2005
then its 6500
or do you mean whats the highest rev can it handle pass factory recommended redline?
Modified by komat at 10:08 PM 8/2/2005
it has the same block that is in my ride, the D15B2, and yes redline on a cherry stock block is 6500, but without proper maintenance there is no way I would redline that beast. Safe redline on a stressed older block should be about 5k.
So do I, and I have never redlined, but that is because I always watch my tach. There is no rev-limiter built in, if you want one, you can get them from Autozone pretty cheap. The cheapest rev-limiter on the market is your brain. Make the conscious effort to shift appropriately and you can still shred your tires and not overstress your block and head (that's why you have a tach, at least that's why I have a tach).
lol well with the other cluster i was afraid of overrevving, in my 4speed i can go to 30 mph in 1st gear lmao, but the engine is just screaming at that rpm, but its still completely stock. looking into ram air intakes though, pep boys didnt have what i wanted
so looks like ebay is gonna be my friend for a while
so looks like ebay is gonna be my friend for a while
I know what you mean, and I routinely go to 33-34 in 1st
.
Don't buy a cold air or ram air, make your own for a fraction of the cost and maintain a stock look! It's easy and cheap.
1.Take that nasty in-pipe from on top of the radiator and chuck that ****.
2.Get a K&N filter to fit your stock airbox.
3.Open up the DPFI labeled box on top of the TB and remove the little bronze elbow shaped air deflector.
Reassemble that bitch and you have a STOCK looking operational cold air intake and all you purchased was a new filter! Hooray for the Getto Cold Air Intake!
.Don't buy a cold air or ram air, make your own for a fraction of the cost and maintain a stock look! It's easy and cheap.
1.Take that nasty in-pipe from on top of the radiator and chuck that ****.
2.Get a K&N filter to fit your stock airbox.
3.Open up the DPFI labeled box on top of the TB and remove the little bronze elbow shaped air deflector.
Reassemble that bitch and you have a STOCK looking operational cold air intake and all you purchased was a new filter! Hooray for the Getto Cold Air Intake!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegasEFHB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know what you mean, and I routinely go to 33-34 in 1st
.
Don't buy a cold air or ram air, make your own for a fraction of the cost and maintain a stock look! It's easy and cheap.
1.Take that nasty in-pipe from on top of the radiator and chuck that ****.
2.Get a K&N filter to fit your stock airbox.
3.Open up the DPFI labeled box on top of the TB and remove the little bronze elbow shaped air deflector.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
um what nasty pipe on top of the radiator??, and ive taken the cover off the dpfi thing and i saw that metal plate in there, wuts it do??
Modified by Bjorn20 at 8:01 PM 8/2/2005
.Don't buy a cold air or ram air, make your own for a fraction of the cost and maintain a stock look! It's easy and cheap.
1.Take that nasty in-pipe from on top of the radiator and chuck that ****.
2.Get a K&N filter to fit your stock airbox.
3.Open up the DPFI labeled box on top of the TB and remove the little bronze elbow shaped air deflector.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
um what nasty pipe on top of the radiator??, and ive taken the cover off the dpfi thing and i saw that metal plate in there, wuts it do??
Modified by Bjorn20 at 8:01 PM 8/2/2005
Well, when I first got my baby 2 years ago, she had this nasty intake pipe over the radiator. It was drawing air from the little tiny crack between the hood and the bumper in addition to hot air rising from the Exhaust Manifold area. NOT a good place for clean cold air.
That little brass fitting was used with the factory paper filters to keep FOD (foreign object damage) from happening within the TB. There is also a little domed screen there as well, so that little brass fitting was removed (why have a double redundancy on an economy engine?).
Like a dork, I ran it without a filter for a week. It sounded GREAT, and ran much better. When I replaced the filter with the K&N factory fit, I got the same sound and performance for only $20. That is ALOT better than the DPFI compatible Cold Air on the market from K&N for $130 plus shipping
.
That little brass fitting was used with the factory paper filters to keep FOD (foreign object damage) from happening within the TB. There is also a little domed screen there as well, so that little brass fitting was removed (why have a double redundancy on an economy engine?).
Like a dork, I ran it without a filter for a week. It sounded GREAT, and ran much better. When I replaced the filter with the K&N factory fit, I got the same sound and performance for only $20. That is ALOT better than the DPFI compatible Cold Air on the market from K&N for $130 plus shipping
.
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