Had my car street and dyno tuned last week. Just thought I'd share the results.
Red is before tuning, blue is after. I'm using the Hondata s200.



I am definately happy with the results. I would like to be in the elite club of 200whp with stock internals. Upgrading the header to a Toda piece, maybe the Victory X IM, not sure yet. I think I'll stop modding my car for now(yeah right )

Mods: J's CF intake(custom cf heat shield)
ported T/B
Replica JDM header (looking to get the Toda)
T1R test pipe and full cat-back
UR puley kit
NGK Iridium plugs
Spoon plug wires
T1R voltage stabilizer and grounding kit
AEM cam gears, fuel filter and rail, fpr
Endyn breather kit
plus some other misc. stuff

Comments/opinions welcome

 

Any pics of that J's heatsheild? I'm curious as mine is "in the mail"

 

The power curve is sort of lump. Can you post the air fuel? ALso do you know if your Dyno operator is running the atmospheric correction numbers for the dyno dynamics software? You numbers seem sort of high for a Dyno Dynamics Dyno with your mods.

FYI, Dyno Dynamics Dynos usually read like Mustang dynos and are typically 10% lower than Dynojets from what I have seen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any pics of that J's heatsheild? I'm curious as mine is "in the mail"</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a little ghetto but it works It was my first experience laying out CF. Pretty fun actually, you can make all kinds of ****.



Just to prove it's real CF

 

Asahi-I'll be getting the A/F numbers today from my tuner. They're in his computer. I'll also ask about the atmosphere correction you mentioned. I am a n00b when it comes to dyno tuning and readings

 

Try and get a picture of the Air/Fuel on the graph. This would help in suggesting how well the whole curve is tuned.

Did the tuner tune partial throttle by loading the dyno?

 

whoa, dyno dynamics read hella low. i rmember puttin down like 173 on a dyno dynamics and like 186 on a dyno jet, bg different.

you must have a heatly motor, is the head stock?

 

Did you leave the resonator intake leaving cool air to come in the bottom?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BERT-O &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whoa, dyno dynamics read hella low. i rmember puttin down like 173 on a dyno dynamics and like 186 on a dyno jet, bg different.

you must have a heatly motor, is the head stock?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bert that could have also ben shootout mode which is supposed to simulate flywheel numbers but that would make it a low number. The dyno uss a correction factor for atmospheric conditions so that regardless of winter or summer the power numbers can be compared. THis can be set to 1 and not used from what i have seen. I sent the post to the Dyno owner that I tune on and will give more info if he has something to share.

 

I'd block off the overflow bottle, as you know it gets hotter than hell and will radiate heat into your air intake. Cool carbon fiber stuff though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asahi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The power curve is sort of lump. Can you post the air fuel? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah that is pretty lumpy... But if the A/F is on point then leave it alone (trying to sound like I know something)

But your # look like 186/134 not too bad. Kinda like my numbers... 182/131and my list of mods are a lot less. I say good job.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you leave the resonator intake leaving cool air to come in the bottom?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes sir. Just the stock intake feed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah that is pretty lumpy... But if the A/F is on point then leave it alone (trying to sound like I know something)

But your # look like 186/134 not too bad. Kinda like my numbers... 182/131and my list of mods are a lot less. I say good job.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually if the AFR numbers are on point, then I'd suggest changing the timing at the low spots to see what they do. I've seen increase in power with increasing and decreasing timing so it woudl take some trial and error but would possibly smooth stuff out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boondock Saint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd block off the overflow bottle, as you know it gets hotter than hell and will radiate heat into your air intake. Cool carbon fiber stuff though</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will be building a new design based on the 'bathtub' Endyn did for their supercharger. http://wwwtheoldone.com check out the supercharger link and you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

Is the red line your stock type r ecu? or is it a chiped p-28? how long did it take on the dyno? I'm planning on running the hondata s200 soon but without cam gears. Nice # though.

 

if that red line is his stock ecu & motor then he has pretty strong motor. but I doubt it

 

that's sweet, my car has similar mod. execpt i am using different I/H, and i don't have the pulley kit and catch can

do you dyno at kinetic?
are they still around?! since my friend told me kinetic is closed down...?!?! (my friend could be wrong...since he heard that from another friend...)

i have to get my powerfc tune in the end of this year after getting timing belt and bottom end done....

 

Well, as others have said, Im not too sure about the correction readings and whatnot. But it looks like substantial gains were seen across the board and I would definitely be happy with that. Although a little lumpy but strong nonetheless. What did you set your cam gears to and what is your base distributor timing? IMO, Id skip the Victor X upgrade(I ran it on my last setup), and just get a bit of headwork and port match the stock IM. The Victor X is really designed for turbo applications and possibly very high revving motors where you can gain a few peak HP.

 

Got any more pics of the intake box? Thats sweet, Im thinking of trying something like that, a combination of the J's and the lower part of the stock box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What did you set your cam gears to </TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is a shotty pic of each

intake


exhaust

 

Would you consider your cam timing "ideal" for street use. Is there an ideal setting that people usually follow?

I ask, because mine are 3+ intake and 2- exhaust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's a little ghetto but it works </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey, that's my motto.

That's a good idea, I totally need to do the same thing for my filter (on the other side of the engine bay...)

 

Those are good #'s since you really only have I/H/E and the most important part...tuning. Doubt a ported TB or spoon wires are giving any gains.