I am.....!

 

i did in my accord

i had to cut an inch off the runners .....

 

I'm having problems with the brake mc hard line that exits out on the passenger's side of the brake MC bottom and then goes down...

I need it to be a *little* tighter to clear the fuel rail (since it's on the underside of the stacks.....)

I think my good friend Charles is going to find me a tight radius 90 deg compression fitting that'll work well.

It may be due to the fact that the b18c never came in an EF here, nor do I know of many people running the toda itb's, and the itr brake MC in said vehicle could also be the culprit.....

I had considered plugging the brake MC where that fitting comes out - then tapping and running the hard line on the opposite side in the same spot.....

Thoughts?

 

update: that part is done.










Now I have to figure out what throttle cable to use - as the one on my EF is too damn long... and I can't remember if I'm using the itr throttle cable or the EF one.....


Modified by Black R at 12:39 PM 8/6/2005

 

update:

It idles.....

The throttle cable for both itr and EF don't seem to be the problem..... One is longer and just has to be mounted farther from the throttle linkage than the other, but with the throttle plates closed and no slack - then pushing the gas pedal all the way down, the itb's don't quite open ALL the way. They seem to have an extra 1/8 to 1/16 of a turn left to being perfectly open.....


Modified by Black R at 12:26 PM 8/6/2005

 

i have TWM itbs on a Ls/VTEC in a CRX and i have an ITR brake booster and master cylinder. no clearance issues. i had to use the CRX throttle cable cable cause the ITR cable was too long..

 

.....well upon driving it around a bit last night, I think the brake vacuum box thingy (whatever it's called) that the brake master cylinder bolt to is touching the fittings on the driver's side of the fuel rail. I can feel the vibration of the motor idling at the brake pedal...

can I go ahead and knock a dent in this big black round thingy?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">update: that part is done.</TD></TR></TABLE>


correction: the -6 AN fitting on the fuel rail hits the brake booster housing.

I can feel the motor vibrating on it through the brake pedal.

Anyone think it'll be ok if I make a nice dent in the brake booster to clear it?

I don't want fuel spilling out of that fitting onto the alternator below.....!

No brakes + :fire: would not be a g00t th4nG!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The throttle cable for both itr and EF don't seem to be the problem..... One is longer and just has to be mounted farther from the throttle linkage than the other, but with the throttle plates closed and no slack - then pushing the gas pedal all the way down, the itb's don't quite open ALL the way. They seem to have an extra 1/8 to 1/16 of a turn left to being perfectly open..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I had this problem with my sidedraft carbs. If you wanna get super crazy and you are good with geometry, you can rig up a sort of roller wheel somewhere along the cables path....

or...

you can be like me and my other friends running webers/mikuni's and simply pull up a little bit on the gas pedal, and check for closing with each adjustment .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaeOne3345 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I had this problem with my sidedraft carbs. If you wanna get super crazy and you are good with geometry, you can rig up a sort of roller wheel somewhere along the cables path....

or...

you can be like me and my other friends running webers/mikuni's and simply pull up a little bit on the gas pedal, and check for closing with each adjustment .</TD></TR></TABLE>


I can't picture the roller wheel thingy in my mind.....

But I can understand what you mean about bending the gas pedal.

By tps voltage, it's opening the itb's at 70% max currently.

I'm going to cut the carpet underneath the gas pedal, and remove the stop under the pedal as well. Then I'll set about bending that **** to where it needs to be.

If worst comes to worst, I can always cut and reweld it how I want it.

 

http://www.geocities.co.jp/Mot...7.htm

 

ok i sent oyu a pm .. this is an old pic but this is the banjo fitting i was talkign about:

greg

 

once again, Samaroo = t3h m4n!

I put about 300 miles on it this weekend and it runs good on rice4life's base map with minor tweaks for injector size.

I haven't run it hard, but partial throttle isn't bad at all, and tip in is only slightly rough. The idle is decent as well.

I'll fix the pedal issue and should be ready to street tune this week.

(It still feels slow compared to my turbo kaa tho! )

 

I put some more miles on her this weekend.

johnzm tweaked the base map a bit - but the interpolation between vacuum and tps maps is off a little.

I was able to bend the gas pedal up to get the proper amount of travel - but like JaeOne3345 said, the pedal sits WAY up higher than it used to..... I cut the carpet out and the firewall padding right there. Next, I may cut the backing off the bottom of the pedal to give me a little more clearance...

But I'm currently getting .5v to 4.5v after setting the tps.

w00t!