I replaced the pads and rotors on my car today and what a pain in the *** that was. What should have been a 45 min job took almost 3 hours! Everything was going smooth till I got to the 2 phillips screwes on the rotors. Sprayed em with WD-40 and let em sit a while and still wouldnt budge. Sprayed then again still wouldn't. Sprayed them one last time and let it sit went to take them off and still wouldn't budge. I got an attachment to make my ratchet into a phillips to get more muscle behind it and got 3 of them off. The last one stripped out so bad I just drilled it out.

I know I could have heated it up with a torch but I dont have one. 1st brake job I've done on a Honda and I really don't want to do it again...lol

 

Impact driver will take those babies off with one smack.

Or you can drill them out in a few seconds too b/c you don't really need them. I keep'em though just b/c i have the impact driver and can take them off as I wish

Brake and rotors in a couple minutes. Really, its not taht hard.

I think the impact driver was like 20 bucks from sears.

Once you have it you'll smack yourself for spending 3 hours on those little bolts.

 

I didn't think they were needed but I wanted to put them back on just to be safe. I have and impact driver but it don't have a phillips attachment.

 

the best way i found for getting those screws out is to get a screwdriver and put it in the slot, and then pound on it with a hammer. works really well.

 

Hit it with a hammer and a center punch. Zips them off quck.

 

I use a harbor freight impact driver. Super cheap. Lube them with lithium grease and they'll be easy to take out the next time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Project91Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I replaced the pads and rotors on my car today and what a pain in the *** that was. What should have been a 45 min job took almost 3 hours! Everything was going smooth till I got to the 2 phillips screwes on the rotors. Sprayed em with WD-40 and let em sit a while and still wouldnt budge. Sprayed then again still wouldn't. Sprayed them one last time and let it sit went to take them off and still wouldn't budge. I got an attachment to make my ratchet into a phillips to get more muscle behind it and got 3 of them off. The last one stripped out so bad I just drilled it out.

I know I could have heated it up with a torch but I dont have one. 1st brake job I've done on a Honda and I really don't want to do it again...lol</TD></TR></TABLE>


WD40 was your first mistake, PB-Blaster foo!!!!! Become friends with it. cuase itle save your nutts.

 

Tyr doing a brake job on an old subaru, YUCK.

 

That's why I got Teg brakes!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LaFawnduh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


WD40 was your first mistake, PB-Blaster foo!!!!! Become friends with it. cuase itle save your nutts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i second that

 

dont mean to thread jack but i recently changed brake pads and it squeks louder than before

 

Those screws don't HAVE to be put back in there, do they? I remember old Corvettes had rivets that held the rotors on, but they didn't have to have them re-installed.

Not that that's relevent or anything.

 

Rotor screws are easy as pie when you have the right tool . . .



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ex voto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those screws don't HAVE to be put back in there, do they?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88HaveFun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont mean to thread jack but i recently changed brake pads and it squeks louder than before </TD></TR></TABLE>

DId you turn your rotors? Is it a chirping type squeak or a long sustained squeal?

 

naw i didnt turn my rotors :/

that's probably the reason

i'll check it out

thx

 

Break in the pads. You have to bed them into the rotor. Most manufacturers recommend 3 gradual decelerations to 10 mph, from 20, then 30, 40, 50, with a few minutes between each interval so you don't overheat and crack your rotors. Don't sit at a stoplight with your brakes on or you could warp the rotors. Then let the car sit for around 8 hours+ without the e brake on so they can completely cool down.

Make sure the brake hardware isn't scratching against the rotor. Same thing with the dust shields. In fact, remove them cuz they suck. Make sure the squeel shims are seated right or not present at all, they suck too. Lube the caliper pins with the correct grease. Torque everything to spec. Hit the rotors with brake parts cleaner. Buy yourself a cheap analog dial caliper and check the brakes out once a year or so.

At first I left the rotor screws out, but once when I was torquing a wheel down, the whole thing didn't seat right. I noticed it right away, but ever since then I've been reusing the screws with lithium grease and they always come out easily with a normal screw driver. Brembos come with new screws.

Buy some good quality brake pads. My favorite street pads are the Axxis/PBR metalmasters. I like them even better than their highest grade pads Ultra or whatever. Brembo makes some good cheap rotors.

 

[QUOTE=Targa250R]Rotor screws are easy as pie when you have the right tool . . .




I just did my brakes today with that tool, I got 3 out and spent a freaking hour on 1 with the impact driver and it wouldn't budge. I gave up and only finished one side. Going to go buy a torch tommorrow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jacen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just did my brakes today with that tool, I got 3 out and spent a freaking hour on 1 with the impact driver and it wouldn't budge. I gave up and only finished one side. Going to go buy a torch tommorrow.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Eh, just drill the head off and leave the rest of the stud in the hub.

 

Once you get those little rusted ******* off "the little screws", throw them in the woods!, you don't really need them to be honest. They just hold the rotor on so when you take off the wheel they won't fall flat on they're face on the ground, the wheel holds them on anyways when you have it tighten down.

 

just apply a lil high temp anti seize on them so next time it should be easier.