I just purchased a keyless entry system for cars with power locks the other day. I figure that since I have power locks, there is no need to screw with actuators, etc.

Anyway, so I have no wiring diagrams for the wires under the dash and I decided to install the whole system in the door.

I finally figured out which wire sends 12v to the door locks, found the ground wire, and hooked up the switch.

Now, in hindsight, I think I want to install it under the dash and not have a little box floating in my already cramped door.

So, who can point me in the right direction to wiring diagrams, pictures, etc? There appear to be about 8000 wires under the dash (at least onthe drivers side).

The wires I need are:

12v

ground (I can probably wire this to the chasis, but since I already spliced one ground I might as well do another)

door unlock

door lock

door lock ground (can probably use the same ground, not sure)

If you could, please also tell me the location of these wires. This is for a sedan, but i'm sure that hatchbacks are the same.

Of the 8000 wires under the dash I'm certain that all of these wires exist and are easy to splice into. I just need to know which ones are which, and the service manuals I have don't tell me crap.

Thanks in advance for all of the help!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiMateoAko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The wires I need are:

12v

ground (I can probably wire this to the chasis, but since I already spliced one ground I might as well do another)

door unlock

door lock

door lock ground (can probably use the same ground, not sure)


</TD></TR></TABLE>

12v constant is wht/blk going to ignition switch

ground is any metal u want but there is 2 grounds under the dash, one on driver kickpanel, one on stering coloum

door lock/unlock are in the door if y want to mount the unit inside under the dash as i did run 2 wires to the door (or u canuse your speeker wires if u dont want audio. if i remimber right theres 3 wires going to the lock switch grn/red and grn/wht for lock and unlock respectivly and the third center one is a ground. the lock module is in the door so unless u ana do some fancy relay work u need to run it to that module.

lock ground is any ground again as the lock switch grounds to the module.

ALSO i have a bulldog unit in my car and will take pics of my install if u want.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DieMaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">12v constant is wht/blk going to ignition switch

ground is any metal u want but there is 2 grounds under the dash, one on driver kickpanel, one on stering coloum

door lock/unlock are in the door if y want to mount the unit inside under the dash as i did run 2 wires to the door (or u canuse your speeker wires if u dont want audio. if i remimber right theres 3 wires going to the lock switch grn/red and grn/wht for lock and unlock respectivly and the third center one is a ground. the lock module is in the door so unless u ana do some fancy relay work u need to run it to that module.

lock ground is any ground again as the lock switch grounds to the module.

ALSO i have a bulldog unit in my car and will take pics of my install if u want. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a bulldog unit as well. I'd love to see the pictures of your install.

I may actually take my door apart again later and try to make it fit better. I have no desire to screw with the wiring from door to interior, and I'd rather use my speakers (although I do like the idea of hijacking the speaker wire).

Show my your set up, and I'll be sure to snap a few pictures when I get mine finished later tonight.

 

just took pics be up in a min

 

heres my car to door wiring not pritty but functonal


the brain:


pic of the running lights "command receved" relay



messy but functional again


i used the kickpanel ground for the brain and lock ground


optional trunk poper relay (solonoid still not mounted but green wire run)


the wires from the lock swich


here is where i sliced them together at the module


another view


i can also tell u what wire is for what if u need to know

 

Argh.

So after two days of having it installed, all pretty and everythign, my battery dies. Looks like I used the wrong wire for the job.

The wire I used for 12v is in your pictures below. It is the White and yellow wire with red stripes connected to the "unlock box."

Anyway, bad idea for me to try to put it ALL in my door.

So I took it out a few minutes ago and patched up the wires I spliced into. Tomorrow or the day after I'll try to hook it up like your's is hooked up. I'll probably use the radio 12v and pray that my battery won't die again.

Did you have to remove any of your dash to install this, or was it just the carpet? How difficult would it be for me to have my wires exit at the same place as the existing wire harness that goes to the door? I could wrap it around the wire harness and perhaps use black duct tape or something to hold them all together.

damn battery

 

ripping out your install i would have left it for a week or so and see what infact drained your battery (running lights or dome lite most likely) the yellow /red* is the constant power for the lock module so that would have done just fine.

*i still need to confirm this

the only part i removed was the center console around the radio so i could work easyer and the carpit as shown in pic and the door panal.

as for the car-to-door wires mabie one day i'll take the fender off and experiment with those. but for now thats how they are

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DieMaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ripping out your install i would have left it for a week or so and see what infact drained your battery (running lights or dome lite most likely) the yellow /red* is the constant power for the lock module so that would have done just fine.

*i still need to confirm this

the only part i removed was the center console around the radio so i could work easyer and the carpit as shown in pic and the door panal.

as for the car-to-door wires mabie one day i'll take the fender off and experiment with those. but for now thats how they are </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm leaving the door panel off until I get a good solution. I could easily put it back to the way it was.

I never leave my dome light on (killed the battery too many times before that way). ****, now that I think about it, I did leave my door open for the past two days. Is there a light under the glove box that turns on when the door is open? If so, that is the culprit. I can easily reinstall this setup in about 5 minutes time. You'll love it.

BTW, I think I want to install a custom module to my "trunk" button that opens the garage door. Just get a small garage door opener and hook it to the trunk wires. When the button is pushed it does the work for me. Happy day

I'll charge my battery tomorrow and see if I can figure out what went wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiMateoAko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW, I think I want to install a custom module to my "trunk" button that opens the garage door. Just get a small garage door opener and hook it to the trunk wires. When the button is pushed it does the work for me. Happy day
</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL clever idea but i allwways wantedmy car to play DISCO FEVER when i push that button

i would love to install in my door and get rid of those 2 wires to the door. love to see your setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DieMaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL clever idea but i allwways wantedmy car to play DISCO FEVER when i push that button

i would love to install in my door and get rid of those 2 wires to the door. love to see your setup </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you can confirm that the wire I used should be okay, I'll hook it back up and assume the dead battery was caused by something else.

BTW, ground I use is the black wire that comes out of the door panel (the ground of the window regulator buttons). Do you think that would be okay to use as well?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiMateoAko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW, ground I use is the black wire that comes out of the door panel (the ground of the window regulator buttons). Do you think that would be okay to use as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the seprate big blk wire that plugs into the window swich? NO NO NO NO NO NO NO x100 thats a swiched ground that goes to the other 3 windows that that master swich controls so with the swich off theres no ground there nad no window movements. just sand down to metal around any bolt and use that.

EDIT: the wht/yel was correct to use.



Modified by DieMaster at 4:14 PM 8/2/2005

 

Word. I need a service manual like crazy.

I'll do what you said and report back.

I'll then post pictures and you can see my sweet setup.

 

as soon as i get a 91 manual(soon) i'll sell u my 89 make offer or pm me

 

Just thought I'd post up pictures of my install





It's ghetto, but it's all self contained. The yellow wire going horizontal is the antenna. The restof the wires should be pretty obvious.

Thank god for Dremel

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DieMaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the seprate big blk wire that plugs into the window swich? NO NO NO NO NO NO NO x100 thats a swiched ground that goes to the other 3 windows that that master swich controls so with the swich off theres no ground there nad no window movements. just sand down to metal around any bolt and use that.

EDIT: the wht/yel was correct to use.

Modified by DieMaster at 4:14 PM 8/2/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

My battery keeps draining... still... any ideas? Could it be caused by a bad ground in the switch?

 

put a amp meter on the negitave battery post and pull fuses untill it reads bout 50 MA w/ ignition off. then the fuse u puled that curict is the bad one.

 

wow! i like spaghetti!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiMateoAko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My battery keeps draining... still... any ideas? Could it be caused by a bad ground in the switch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Found the problem. See this picture:



I connected the switch ground (purpoe wire) to the third ambiguous wire that led out of the switch. I think I just assumed it was the ground for the switch. I grounded it to a bolt 2 days ago and the battery is still going strong.

YAY for keyless entry!