B16a stock internals, Xsi stock intake manifold. GE vacuum manifold T'd off brake booster between manifold and check valve. t3/t04e 57 trim with Tial 38mm wastegate and 50mm BOV. Fuel delivery updated and all new. MSD 6al ign and blaster2 coil. obd1 converted. timing is set to 0.

ECU:
p28 ecu chipped with uberdata p30 modded rom for 450cc, 110 Boost Fuel Eff, 0.8 Boost Ign Retard, stock MAP, 850 cold idle, 750 warm idle. Currently o2 heater disabled and closed loop disabled.

Actual readings on startup:
Idle RPM: 1750
Idle manifold pressure: 20 inHg
fuel pressure: 41psi

Since I am still waiting on my LM1 wbo2, I don't want to mess around too much until I can read the a/f ratio. But I reved up to about 4.5k in neutral and wasn't seeing any rise in manifold pressure. Do I need to have a load to build pressure? I also noticed when pressing the brake pedal, boost gauge dropped to about 23 inHg and idle speed changed slightly. Is that normal, or could this be a faulty check valve? Upon inspecting vacuum lines, I noticed that the wastegate line was sucking the line closed because it is too weak of a material. Tomarrow I will change this out, but what effect would this currently have?

I have been reading old posts for about 2 hours since I got back from working on the car. Its about 1am and I gave up the search to write this post so I have some hard data to work with tomarrow. If there is anything you think I have left out or would be helpful in getting me going I would appreciate it. I've been working on this project slowly but surely over the last 5 years. I feel I am very knowledged with cars and the crx in general. But since i've never started this project car until now, my experience with tuning is limited. Thanks for the help!

 

yes you need a load to build boost pressure.
i can rev my buddy's srt-4 in neutral and redline it all day and it won't leave vacuum.
you seem like you have done your homework with the car, but you are new to turbo. i can relate. i have been planning on turbocharging a b16 for 18 months now and have assembled parts but haven't started the engine build just yet.
you will learn as you go.
i understand your caution and concern with the freshly-boosted b16.
just be careful but don't worry yourself to death. it will work out and will be a fun engine and car.
best of luck.

 

take some pics of everything so we can see where everything is going and ill let you know.

with a T3 hotside, you have to be under a pretty hard load to build boost, the brake pedal deal is normal but you need to change that line out.

 

yeah, last night was pretty stressful. After a short drive of leaving the garage and back, my tapped hose at the oil sender came loose and shot 3 quarts over the engine. Talk about a mess, took about 2 hours to clean up and its still filmy. Those little things where you forget to completely tighten down hose clamps always come back and bite you. hehe.

What about the brake pedal and its affect on pressure/idle?

Thanks for the help, good luck on your project as well!

 

anyone else experiencing pressure changes when brake peddle is pressed? This just doesn't seem right. Also when car off, first press on brake pedal quickly goes to ground, then it seams to build pressure and then is hard. When car is running, it seams as though pedal pressure is average. Its hard for me to give good data on this since its been 5 years since the crx has even left the garage! The brakes are operating, but haven't been tested at normal driving conditions.

 

your description of the brake pedal behavior when the car is off and then when on seems normal to me.