how do you know if you're subwoofer has blown... i have an eclipse sw7124dvc-t2.

my amplifier blew... the heat sink touched the ground i think and went up in flames. i'll post a picture of what caught on fire tomorrow. doesn't look bad... just need to know if my subwoofer has life in it or if it's damaged. by the way, i tried it out w/ a 100watt rms (@ 2ohm) and it still hits but the thing is i'm not sure if it's still gots the full potential.




Modified by idriveadelsol7 at 3:57 PM 7/29/2005

 

if it sounded good when you hooked it up (no poping or crakling) then id say it would be good to go. At this point what do you have to loose if you hook it up again either it wont make sound or will sound really bad if its blown

 

tru...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrjrsc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it sounded good when you hooked it up (no poping or crakling) then id say it would be good to go. At this point what do you have to loose if you hook it up again either it wont make sound or will sound really bad if its blown</TD></TR></TABLE>

might smell bad too when its going out. also, smoke coming out of box is a pretty good indication of a fried voice coil too.

 

Those eclipse aluminum/titanium woofers are pretty damn hard to blow up. Just thought I'd let you know that.

 

As club said, them subs can take a beating. I don't think it'll be damaged, but push the cone section down and listen to the rear of the sub for a grating sound.............if it's grating, then it'll be toast or on it's way out.

 

The heatsinks are electrically isolated. Which means it doesn't matter if they touch ground.

The transistor that blew apart is part of the switching power supply. You can probably fix that yourself. If it where me I would replace all four of those transistors at once. Also look for a blown resistor that would be connected to one of those leads. You cost would probably be about $15.00.

 

nsxxtreme, do you happen to still have that link for the transistors? I haven't gotten around fixing that dei amp until now, but i lost the link (pc died)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nsxxtreme, do you happen to still have that link for the transistors? I haven't gotten around fixing that dei amp until now, but i lost the link (pc died)</TD></TR></TABLE>
No but if you tell me the number on the top of the transistor I could find it again.

The problem with yours is DEI scratching the numbers off there parts. What you need is a current limiting power supply. So you can run the amplifier out of the heatsink. A transformer will work 12V few hundred milliamps.

Those transistors usually run in parallel which means it will still work with just one transistor connected. It just wont be able to supply much of a load. Thats ok because your not driving a load. Your amp is not switching, you should get a square wave on the input of the gate of the transistor with a varying duty cycle. Its basically a boost converter. Look up boost converter on the internet to get a general idea. Either one (or more) of those transistors has its gate tied to ground internally or the part that controls the switching is not switching. Which the more I think about it the more I think its the problem. The problem is they scratched the numbers off the part. So you will have to go through them to get it. Its going to be an IC. You can find it by following the trace that runs from the gate back to an IC. Then you will have to beg DEI for the part.

I'm fixing my old Soundstream 10.1 that I sold a friend similiar problem. Difference is Soundstream gave me the schematic free of charge. Good company.


Modified by nsxxtreme at 3:28 PM 7/31/2005

 

Don't run the 7124 off a 100watt rms amp. You will almost certainly blow it.