Just curious to see what oil / weight people run in their b-series motors.

I used to swear by Mobil1 10w-30 synthetic... but in this hot california weather, I noticed that after sustained highway driving my oil pressure was getting pretty low, around 45psi at 3000rpm and 8-9psi at idle...

So I decided to try some heavier oil, Castrol Syntec 10w-40... and the oil pressure problem is fixed. I see about 60-65psi at 3000rpm and 15psi or so at idle. The pressure doesn't drop anymore after the car has been highway driving for even extended periods... This also seemed to quiet down the engine a bit, I think my LMAs (or something?) are clicking (b18c1)...

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263638

This thread is awesome

 

I personally run Castrol GTX 10W30 and a Wix filter with my built motor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaze the chemi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263638

This thread is awesome </TD></TR></TABLE>

That thread really doesnt help much. Just a bunch of people saying i run this or i run that - no reasons why one is better then the other.

Dustins question should really be, what do you guys use for oil and WHY! Mobil 1 is some awesome oil sure, but is it really that much better then say castral or the cheap stuff. Is it worth spending the extra $3 on syn oil?

liam

 

Royal Purple 10w40
Torco 10w40

 

I think I am just wondering of people have had similar occurences w/ Mobil 1 full synthetic... it seems like the stuff gets thinner than it should at high temperature.... I'm not even tracking this car, just driving at sustained load 80mph on the freeway and the pressure drops with 10w-30... then again my motor has a few miles on it


Edit: changed the thread title... thanks for the suggestion hehe.

 

I use Mobil1 10w-30. I have good link for oil info at home I'll post up later. It has some test results that shows Amsoil as being the best and Mobil1 not too far behind. I went with Mobil1 because of availability.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious to see what oil / weight people run in their b-series motors.

I used to swear by Mobil1 10w-30 synthetic... but in this hot california weather, I noticed that after sustained highway driving my oil pressure was getting pretty low, around 45psi at 3000rpm and 8-9psi at idle...

So I decided to try some heavier oil, Castrol Syntec 10w-40... and the oil pressure problem is fixed. I see about 60-65psi at 3000rpm and 15psi or so at idle. The pressure doesn't drop anymore after the car has been highway driving for even extended periods... This also seemed to quiet down the engine a bit, I think my LMAs (or something?) are clicking (b18c1)...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

same problem here i might try some of that castrol syntec 10w-40 next time around

 

I use cheap non-detergant motor oil for breakin and then Amsoil after that..

As long as there are engines out there youll hear of good and bad stories with every type of oil.. Im sure someone has had an engine lock up using mobile1 and im sure there is an engine with 1/2 million miles that has only ran the $.99 oil from walmart..

 

I run the cheapest **** I can find.

10w-30 Shell non-synthetic. $1.39/qt

And a Bosch oil filter

Change every 2k miles. Car's been boosted for two years, almost 30k miles

 

anyone try the valvoline synthetic?

 

I run that oil from Mobil or Quaker State for lazy people who change their oil every 10k miles.

 

Mobil 1 10w30 is a very thin 30 weight oil that tends to burn off rather easily. I used to run it in my old engine, but for now I'm running Castrol GTX 10w40 for the break-in. After that, I'll probably give Mobil's new 10w40 "Extended Performance" a try if I can find it locally. I'm not interested in extended drain intervals, but Mobil doesn't offer that weight in any other formula, unless you want to spend $8 a quart for the 10w40 motorcycle oil. Otherwise, I'll definitely get Redline 10w40 for a couple bucks more a quart. You can't go wrong with Redline in a high performance engine. I personally won't buy synthetics from any of the other big companies, because they aren't true synthetics, and as such, are WAY overpriced. It has been speculated that Castrol's German made, yet tough to find, 0w30 is a true synthetic, but I doubt it. People swear by the stuff, but it seems like hype to me.

 

I use to run Mobil 1 but 10w 30 but i seemed to burn a lot of oil and it was dam expensive to keep filling it. I switched over to castrol gtx 10w40 and it hardly burns any oil and I do not fill it that often. I do not have an oil pressure guage so can not comment on the oil pressure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USE2B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mobil 1 10w30 is a very thin 30 weight oil that tends to burn off rather easily. I used to run it in my old engine, but for now I'm running Castrol GTX 10w40 for the break-in. After that, I'll probably give Mobil's new 10w40 "Extended Performance" a try if I can find it locally. I'm not interested in extended drain intervals, but Mobil doesn't offer that weight in any other formula, unless you want to spend $8 a quart for the 10w40 motorcycle oil. Otherwise, I'll definitely get Redline 10w40 for a couple bucks more a quart. You can't go wrong with Redline in a high performance engine. I personally won't buy synthetics from any of the other big companies, because they aren't true synthetics, and as such, are WAY overpriced. It has been speculated that Castrol's German made, yet tough to find, 0w30 is a true synthetic, but I doubt it. People swear by the stuff, but it seems like hype to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think you can get the german stuff at the VW dealer?


hmmm... i might try what you did dustin

 

Guys in the itr forum occasionally have their oil sent to Blackstone labs to have an analysis done on it. I'd be interested to see the results from a turbo'd b-series.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STD ONEpointSIX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Royal Purple 10w40
</TD></TR></TABLE>

same here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So I decided to try some heavier oil, Castrol Syntec 10w-40... and the oil pressure problem is fixed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

"Other samples of Syntec, one purchased in December 1997 and four purchased in 1998, contained no PAO, and instead contained 100% mineral oil. "

http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/articles60.htm

Furthermore, Mobil alleged that Castrol degraded Syntec by substituting hydroprocessed mineral oil for PAO to the detriment of the consumer.

 

cali daily driver 20w-50 castrol gtx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

"Other samples of Syntec, one purchased in December 1997 and four purchased in 1998, contained no PAO, and instead contained 100% mineral oil. "

http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/articles60.htm

Furthermore, Mobil alleged that Castrol degraded Syntec by substituting hydroprocessed mineral oil for PAO to the detriment of the consumer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I am aware of the Mobil/Castrol law suit from the 80s or whatever... but I just went to autozone and tried to find the "best" 10w-40 they had, which was the Syntec. It's not *real* synthetic, but it's better than Castrol GTX IMO. I'd rather run Mobil1 10w-40 synthetic but I don't think they make it? At least my local stores don't carry it.

 

i dont like synthetic oil. I have pesonally seen problems with the oil thinning too much and making noises whether its a honda or not. I use regular 10w-40 in all of my normal cars, and even on my fully built motor

 

I recently used Mobile 1 synthetic and heard many new noises. I have always used regular oil. The detergents in the oil have slightly opened the seals in some places as I have seen oil in my charge pipe and intercooler piping. The turbo was rebuilt a few months ago so I sure it is fine. I think I'll switch back to regular 10W-30 or -40 next oil change.
It seems people so far are using Castrol more than Mobile.
What about Pennzoil?

 

Used to run M1 10w30 Syn....it burned a bit, and I wanted to run a 5w30.

So I ran M1 5w30 Syn and burned the **** out of it. It thins out like crazy at high temps/high RPM's.

Ended up running Castrol 5w30 full synthetic...its great. Still burns a bit, nowhere NEAR as much as M1 5w30, and about on par or maybe a bit less than M1 10w30.

 

I just jizz once or twice into the oil fill hole and call it a day.

As many have said before, changing the fluid often is the what matters most.

 

I'm running M1 10w30 for the first time in my car and will be having the oil tested soon to see how it's doing.