Alright. This thing has been dicking me for the past two weeks. Let me start off with the basics. 95 Honda Accord EX 5spd. F22B1 SOHC VTEC from the factory. I've just swapped in a JDM H22A. I've followed the SCC magazine's guide to swap an H22 into a CD Accord word-for-friggin'-word. Everything in the wiring has been done to perfection, according to the SCC guide. No VTEC, whatsoever. As I expected, there are CELs. It's no surprise to me at all, I work with them all day as a mechanic. Here's the issue. I know there are certain CELs that will disable VTEC, and I know you can read the CEL code by shorting the diagnostic connector on the car.

Now, some ******* of a mechanic that worked on the car before I bought it REMOVED THE DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR from under the dash. I know the Accord has the connector behind the ashtray in the center console, but it is not there. I REMOVED THE ENTIRE DASHBOARD (Now I know why Accords are not drag cars. There's a 3" steel beam that supports the dash, and probably weighs 400lbs.), and the diagnostic port is not there at all. Here's where I need the harness and pinout experts. I need to know what pins or wires to jump on the ECU to force it to flash the code. I'll appreciate any help at all. thanks in advance.

 

bump!

 

I think the diagnostic connector is under the glovebox, right under the a/c turbine/box.

 

been there. the heater box is laying on my workbench. The only place I haven't looked for the connector is up my own rectum. Trust me.

 

bump! I know the wires that are in the diagnostic port are wired to the ECU. I really need to know what pins/wires to short to find the CEL codes.

 

check the EG forum, theres a massive ECU pinout thread right at the top.

 

Ground pin D4 and let us know what codes are flashing.

 

That did it. codes 6, 10, 14. IAC, IAT, and water temp sensor (might not be in that order). We're trying a few things out tonite. a friend borrowed the Accord IAC, and I'll pick it up this afternoon. another friend is bringing a IAT from another dead motor (H22A1 + 11,000rpm = -1piston ). The water temp sensor is probably my fault. The harness is a modded Accord harness, and the F22B1 has two temp sensors; one on the thermostat housing, one on the front water neck. The JDM H22A only has the sensor on the thermostat housing. Since the harness had two sensor plugs on it, and I wanted it to look all professional and nifty, I used the Accord water neck, to use the other sensor. It may be getting mixed signals from the two sensors.

Thanks alot, everyone. I'll let you know what happens, or doesn't happen.

 

Not to sound like a *** or anything, but you sound like the typical Jiffy Lube employee. 95 Accord is OBDI, NOT OBDII. The 96-97 Accord has the diagnostic port behind the ashtray, the 95 has it in the same place as 92-95 civics. If you're using some cheap, low quality diagnostic tool, then you can't pull codes, you have to jump the 2 pin connector like everyone else here, but it will only flash codes. If you have a good quality tool, you plug it into the 3 pin connector behind the glove box, the 3 pin connector has data stream so you can data log while on a test drive and see what is causing your codes.

 

Strange. I, all of a sudden, feel like slapping someone across the face with my *****.

Excuse my sarcasm. Working on cars for over 12 years, owning a damn reliable Honda for 5 years, working for Toyota for over a year, ASE and Toyota Cerification sometimes gives people a big head. My apoligies.

I know the connector on OBDII Accords is behind the ashtray, but I've seen some late 95s that have them behind the ashtray, too (don't ask me why). The Connector that I was talking about WAS the connector like on EGs. It was ripped out of the car by some asshat mechanic.

Also, I'm doing this swap at my shop at my house, not at the workplace. jumping wires works pretty well, for what I have to accomplish. I'll do datalogging and fine tuning later on, when I can bring the Accord into the workplace.

BTW, still waiting on the sensors from my friend. I'll keep posted.

 

the onyl 95 accord that has it there is the obd2 v6 accord.

and yes on your car there IS a 2 wire blue pin connector behind the glove compartment next to teh kick panel on the passenger side. as a matter of fact d4 even is the wire that goes to it!

oh yeah that article wasnt the greatest guide if you ask me. i persoanlly felt it was not a good step by step guide to use for doing a swap....i usually use a pair of factory service manuals....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the onyl 95 accord that has it there is the obd2 v6 accord.
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That would explain it. I didn't pay attention. My fault.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and yes on your car there IS a 2 wire blue pin connector behind the glove compartment next to teh kick panel on the passenger side. as a matter of fact d4 even is the wire that goes to it!</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was the connector that was ripped out. I shorted the D4pin straight out of the ECU to flash the codes. I found the blue connector on a friend's similar stock accord.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yeah that article wasnt the greatest guide if you ask me. i persoanlly felt it was not a good step by step guide to use for doing a swap....i usually use a pair of factory service manuals....</TD></TR></TABLE>

TEH TRUTH HAS BEEN TOLD!!!! There were so many details that SCC didn't even go over, such as most of the differences between the JDM distributor vs. USDM, alot of different stuff. most of the wiring details for an EX -&gt; H22 swap were very accurate, but they needed to be worded better.