Ok here's the run down.

While trying to convert my R-12 system to R-134, I managed to break off a valve on one of the A/C lines when putting on the R134 adaptor. So this leaves the system exposed to air for a few days.

I replace the line, and fill the system up with R134. Everythings good, blows cold air all day even at low Rpms. Next day its noticeably not as cold at low Rpms, but its cold when i'm driving on the freeway. Next day comes along, and even on the freeway the A/C isn't cold anymore, its blowing pretty much warm air.

So I check the system over with the A/C on full blast, and I find that the valve on the line I replaced has a leak in it, find out I can stop the leak if i take a flat screw driver and push on the SIDE of the valve needle a little bit.

I then take a look at my Dryer canister and find that it is fizzing at one of the bolts (pictures at the bottom). I look on Majestic Honda and the bolt is called a "Safety plug" Number 1 in the diagram here

Here are the pics of it fizzing...





My question is, is it supposed to be fizzing like that?? I'm going to order a new dryer canister anyways since I should have replaced it when I converted my system, since it was exposed to air for a few days. But is the fizzing normal or what could be causing it? (I thought it was just a solid bolt, surprised the hell out of me when I saw it fizzing)

 

as far as i know when theres fizzing like that it means either a bad compressor or too much moisture in the system..and im not sure but arent you supposed to change the reciever dryer when you retrofit?? and how exactly did you take the existing refrigerant out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdeemseerx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as i know when theres fizzing like that it means either a bad compressor or too much moisture in the system..and im not sure but arent you supposed to change the reciever dryer when you retrofit?? and how exactly did you take the existing refrigerant out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea I am supposed to change the Dryer when I retro'ed it. I didn't find that out until after i retro'ed and refilled it

And the existing refrigerant was non existant so I didn't have to get anything vacuumed out.

Now that you mention that the fizzing could be the result of moisture, it does make sense because when i broke th evalve off the a/c line, that left the Dryer exposed to outside air for a few days. From what I've read, this causes the dryer to absorb all the moisture from the outside air and pretty much be used up.

Thanks for the help

 

Wow misinformation galore. That safety valve is a high pressure popoff valve. Get a new one when you replace the dryer.

As far as not having to pull the system down into a vacuum because it was empty.....that's not why you pull a vacuum. A vacuum pump will pull all the air out of the system. Air is non condensible. It'll air lock your condenser and cause some seriously high pressures and make your system not work right. Air also has moisture in it. Which when mixed with the refrigerant oil in your system will create an acid and start to wear down your compressor's internals.

As much as you'd like to save some money I suggest you go ahead and buy a replacement dryer and popoff valve. Right before heading down to the AC shop to have a vacuum pulled install those. Not 2 or 3 days before. Literally before you take off to go down there. Or you can have them put it in (waste of money). When they pull a vacuum they should be able to tell you if you have a leak somewhere. If you have a leak, fix that first. Then charge the system up with the vacuum on it. Personally speaking, I'd have the shop do it for you. That way you know that you have the right amount of refrigerant and oil in there. I'm not a fan of those DIY kits they sell at Wal Mart.
Anyway, if you have any more questions, let me know.

 

Alright thanks a lot! I'll go ahead and do all that.