dizzy on stock motor
I've searched and searched but all i get are people that have done conversions...
i have a d16a6 (you know, the one that came with the an Si civic from the factory) and i lost the screw that holds the rotor and it went through a sensor. I bought a rebuilt dizzy and noticed there was a slight power loss. i check the timing (plug in car is jumped), engine is warmed to temp, and the timing light shows the timing marks being more counter clockwise than it should be (assume thats still retarded). i have the dizzy full advanced. i give it some gas and i can watch the timing marks move to where they should be at idle.
my only guess on how to fix this w/existing dizzy is taking a die grinder and opening the hole a bit. but that seems drastic for what should of been a stock part?
any help?
i have a d16a6 (you know, the one that came with the an Si civic from the factory) and i lost the screw that holds the rotor and it went through a sensor. I bought a rebuilt dizzy and noticed there was a slight power loss. i check the timing (plug in car is jumped), engine is warmed to temp, and the timing light shows the timing marks being more counter clockwise than it should be (assume thats still retarded). i have the dizzy full advanced. i give it some gas and i can watch the timing marks move to where they should be at idle.
my only guess on how to fix this w/existing dizzy is taking a die grinder and opening the hole a bit. but that seems drastic for what should of been a stock part?
any help?
I had a similar problem when i replaced my timing belt. I was just a tooth off between the crank and the cam and it would adjust close but never right on. It finally dropped onto the right tooth and it adjusted perfectly. But I thought about doing what you said dremeling down to adjust farther so i ddnt have to take it apart again. Could it possibly be the timing belt is off a tooth???
i know for sure the crank is TDC. reading the helms isn't as friendly for the cam. the book says to line up the word 'top' on the top and then you line the lines in the middle of the cam with the top of the head. i notice when these lines look level to me there is a pointer about 6:30-7 oclock that points to another mark and its off. so which ones do i go by?
i think i may need to take a picture to help me describe it.
i think i may need to take a picture to help me describe it.
The horozontal lines should be flush with the head NOT the ground...This means that the top pointer may not face directly up. Pic would halp me see if its set right. God I remember doing this. I hated it!!! You pretty much just have to have hold your mouth right to get everything to click
yeah the lines are straight with the head.
hold this thought until tonight when i'll snap a pic of how its set.
if the timing marks are counter clock wise of where they should be, which way should i turn the cam?
hold this thought until tonight when i'll snap a pic of how its set.
if the timing marks are counter clock wise of where they should be, which way should i turn the cam?
Its hard enough being there and figuring that out! It hurts my head trying to figure it out just thinking about it. But...I'll check this thread later tonight man to see about helping you out.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StlSupra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my book says nothing about different models. thats good to know.
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Yeah, my '88 CRX Factory Service Manual is the same damn way - it shows ONE way to set the cam at TDC for all CRX models. That caused me a lot of hassle every time I'd swap a timing belt and set it at TDC. It was only when I was doing a job and didn't have my manual that I found out where my book was wrong; I borrowed a '91 FSM from another guy at the shop, and "Voila!" - there was the CORRECT way to set TDC on the D16A6!
Do it like 88CRXDX said, and it should work fine. Once I figured out that it was my manual that was screwy, it's worked like a charm for me every time since.
Mike
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Yeah, my '88 CRX Factory Service Manual is the same damn way - it shows ONE way to set the cam at TDC for all CRX models. That caused me a lot of hassle every time I'd swap a timing belt and set it at TDC. It was only when I was doing a job and didn't have my manual that I found out where my book was wrong; I borrowed a '91 FSM from another guy at the shop, and "Voila!" - there was the CORRECT way to set TDC on the D16A6!
Do it like 88CRXDX said, and it should work fine. Once I figured out that it was my manual that was screwy, it's worked like a charm for me every time since.
Mike
ok i set the timing the 'correct' way. and also figured out the slack from the tensioner was giving more play than i wanted so after the 20th time setting it and then turning the crank a revolution to check. it is finally correct. however
now when i start the car it idles at 3k. for giggles i put a timing light on it and it was dead on the red mark. but the idle worried me. i don't know if i should jump to conclusions but i helped a buddy with a 95 mustang that the idle was way high like this and it turned out to be the idle air control valve. as far as i'm aware i'm still on the stock one.
now when i start the car it idles at 3k. for giggles i put a timing light on it and it was dead on the red mark. but the idle worried me. i don't know if i should jump to conclusions but i helped a buddy with a 95 mustang that the idle was way high like this and it turned out to be the idle air control valve. as far as i'm aware i'm still on the stock one.
just want to add, that i tried driving it this morning and i went 18 miles to work and used more than 1/4 tank of gas. would a stuck iacv cause that?
i never knew it was this hard to set the timing?
i never knew it was this hard to set the timing?
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