ok i have a 98 ex coupe fully lightened front end carbon fiber hood fiberglass fenders bodykit bumper side skirts and rear lip its a manual my goal is to be sohc but be at 300 horsepower with a turbo what can i boost and what parts do i need to get there the car is sittin on 18" all black konigs also how much do you guys think my car weights it has full interior and does anyone know if it is hard to put the power windows back on the tracks because my windows wont roll up all the way and they look like theyre lambo windows with a downshift if anyone can help me out i would greatly appreciate it thanks

 

ENGLISH ************!! DO YOU SPEAK IT?!?!?!?!

 

^^^ LOL

to answer part of your question...if you want to be faster ditch the 18s. and read up in the forced induction forum.

 

for 300whp(which by the sound of it is too much for you already) you'd need fully forged internals and about 18 psi... research first.

edited because i can't spell for sh*t.

 

That guy is funny. I think he just got done watching Fast and the Furious.

 

Naw dog he jus knows how to pimp a civic... Dude jus hit some NOS!!1

 

You're going to need some enginework and some good tuning to hit 300 whp.

No idea on weight. Somewhere over 2400 lbs, and with a driver, probally closer to 2600.

To fix the window you'll need to remove the door panel, and put the window back in the track. I don't know exactly how to remove the panel on a car with power windows, but on my manual window car you need to remove the speaker, the three screws around it, the screw in the door pocket (the little handle looking thing) as well as the screw holding the door handle surround in and the clip holding the window crank on. Then you should just be able to pull the panel off. It's held on by little clips. Once that's off, you can pull back the plastic cover inside (be careful, that gray sticky crap is a bitch to get off) and you should see the window tracks. I want to say you can remove the bolts with a 10mm socket. Make sure to lube the tracks back up with some silicone lube spray and it should help prevent problems like that from happening agian.

 

It's the same for the power windows, minus the crank.

Oh and to add, since I guess you'll have the tweeter pods, it's a pain in the rear sometimes to get it out, just have to angle it around the pods.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jorsher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's the same for the power windows, minus the crank.

Oh and to add, since I guess you'll have the tweeter pods, it's a pain in the rear sometimes to get it out, just have to angle it around the pods.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, those little covers suck on the non-tweeter units too.

Oh yeah, a helpful hint for getting the door panels back on right. Slide the end that is closest to the front of the car down in the groove like it's supossed to be around the window and then fold the top of the panel down in the groove like it's supossed to be (similar to a Lamborghini door action).

That's the only way I've been able to get my door panels back in where they sit correctly and I've done it the better part of 110000000 times.

 

Actually I think if you port and polish the head, forged internals, and upgrade the valvetrain you can get 300 easily on a t3/t4 at 10-12# properly tuned.

...I know because I've seen this set up run on 9# of boost and it got 310fwhp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by origyns &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually I think if you port and polish the head, forged internals, and upgrade the valvetrain you can get 300 easily on a t3/t4 at 10-12# properly tuned.

...I know because I've seen this set up run on 9# of boost and it got 310fwhp</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rods aren't going to make it for long. Rods or rod bolts WILL snap that high.

 

u need to get ur motor fully biult to even be close to 300HP plus if u just put on a turbo u will most likly blow the motor by the sounds of it