I have a stock b18c5 and figured, what the hell and drilled a small hole in the factory FPR to get some more fuel. Only a day later I now hear a wierd noise like a *clunk clunk clunk* noise near the cam gears. If this fuel related or just a coincedence?? How can I fix?

 

Exactly why did you drill a hole in your FPR? Its probablly not necessary on a stock motor.

 

What's an FPR..?

I don't like being a n00b

 

Fuel
Pressure
Regulator

And why anyone would drill a hole in it is beyond me.


[Modified by Dr Pooface, 9:14 PM 2/18/2002]

 

Thank you Dr. Pooface!!!

 

Well, first thing I'd do is replace the FPR. Not necessarily because of the noise, but not to knock on you, but that was a pretty bad idea. It'll cost you more to replace the FPR with a stock one than it would have cost to get a B&M adjustable thingie to mod your stock one with in the first place! Depending on where you put the hole you might be able to fix it with an adjustable FPR thing. Whatever they're called. Here's a nice install guide: http://www.cs.unm.edu/~firedrak/fprinstall.html
Then worry about the clunking noise.

 

After I did this, I did notice that my idle became a little bit more rough and I a day later, this noise. Could it be because I'm running richer at idle?

 

read on endyn's site why you want to drill a hole in the regulator, the idea makes very good sense

 

What's the URL?

 

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/regulator/

In the article it talks of drilling a hole to relieve fuel pressure at idle. This may be needed to lean out the idle and low rps when running higher pressure than stock. This drilling will not add fuel.


[Modified by Dr Pooface, 10:59 PM 2/18/2002]

 

the drilling does work though, eliminates back pressure and improves gas mileage a little

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldnt drilling a hole through the regulator lose fuel pressure? I dont see how you would get more fuel that way.

 

well ever since I switched to OBD 1, My car will ocasionaly stall out at idle, or run very rich, and idle like 500-600 rpms, the whole time puffing smoke out my exhaust, I have always wondered how to correct this. any other OBD 2-turned OBD 1 cars have this problem?

 

make sure you use a small small small drill bit. don't use a bit any bigger than the one mentioned in the URL on Endyn's site.

my friend did it, and I guess he used one a tad too big.. because his pressure would drop like crazy while he was in VTEC. by 8000rpm, he was down to 25psi and 18:1 A/F ratio on the dyno! i was stumped and trying all kinds of things until he told me what he did. swapped the regulator and now it's fine.

personally, i think the problem w/ some OBD2 to OBD1 cars not idling is due to the different emissions systems. different points at which the purge cut valve activates. that's why it sputters when it starts up.

 

A bigger pipe with less pressure can flow the same amount as a smaller pipe with more pressure. Since ultra high pressures (it's not uncommon to see 100 or more psi on boosted Hondas with a stock fuel system) are hard on the fuel system, it's a good idea to find another way to get the extra fuel you need without increasing fuel pressure.