I tried searching and no one really covers how to properly adjust the height. I know you're suppose to adjust it before you preload the coilovers, which i did. But i'm not sure if you're suppose to adjust the height using the bottom collar (that connects to the lca) and just turn that up or down or do you use the wrenches to adjust the spring perches for the desired height? Sorry if my terms are wrong. thanks


Modified by initialvtec at 10:34 PM 7/24/2005

 

i thought you were suppose to preload first? but i think your suppose to adjust the height with the bottom collar. the top collar is for preloading only i believe! but bump for you anyways and for some more help!

 

I WANT TO KNOW, TOO!!!! 'cept mine are D2's...

 

 

The easiest way to do it is this: tighten the spring perch and spring perch lock against each other as tight as you can get them, so that when you rotate one, the other turns as well, and they should both turn the shock body.
To adjust height, use the spanner wrench and turn either one of those top collars, which should spin the shock body inside the lower mount, and bring it up, or down.

 

adjust height with bottom colar....top is for preload.....

 

No need to "preload"

Just put the perch up high enough so that there is no slack b/t the spring and the upper or lower mounts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Noob4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The easiest way to do it is this: tighten the spring perch and spring perch lock against each other as tight as you can get them, so that when you rotate one, the other turns as well, and they should both turn the shock body.
To adjust height, use the spanner wrench and turn either one of those top collars, which should spin the shock body inside the lower mount, and bring it up, or down. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Make sure you dont shorten the shock too much to get rid of most the droop.

My car at the mo only has about 2" droop when you jack it up, need more really as i can feel the inside wheel losing grip when coming out of a tight corner under power as the shock is not allowing the spring to push teh wheel down to maintain contact with the ground. For a road car droop is preferable over getting preload spot on IMO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Noob4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The easiest way to do it is this: tighten the spring perch and spring perch lock against each other as tight as you can get them, so that when you rotate one, the other turns as well, and they should both turn the shock body.
To adjust height, use the spanner wrench and turn either one of those top collars, which should spin the shock body inside the lower mount, and bring it up, or down. </TD></TR></TABLE>

it probably goes without saying to you that i have no experience with using omnipower coilovers, but dont you find that if the spring is already "preloaded" and you tried to rotate the whole shock body, then doesnt the bottom of the spring produce a lot of friction against the spring perch that makes it REALLY HARD to turn the whole shock?

wouldnt you rather want to either 1) lower the spring perch to take off the preload, then spin the body of the shock up like as you suggested, then snug up the spring perch to take up the rest of the slack. or 2) remove the lower shock bolt, push the suspension down enough (you may need to remove the swaybar link) and turn the bottom cup.

ive just found that when the spring is preloaded, its a bitch to turn the lower spring perch (collar) because the spring is locked into position and pushing down on the collar. once you remove the load of the spring off the collar, then its very easy to turn again.

 

The instructions that come with them say to turn the shock body by hand, but how is this possible? I am able to turn the spring by hand until it gets tight against the upper pillow mount, but that doesn't higher the car as much as I'd like. BTW the omnis are installed and, I have followed the intructions verbatim up to this point, but am stumped. The only way I can see to raise the car higher is to unbolt the LCA from the lower collar, then spin the lower collar to where I want it. If I take one of the coilover wrenches and spin the lower perch lock up, won't it just continue to compress the spring?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PIC Performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The easiest way to do it is this: tighten the spring perch and spring perch lock against each other as tight as you can get them, so that when you rotate one, the other turns as well, and they should both turn the shock body.
<U>To adjust height, use the spanner wrench and turn either one of those top collars, which should spin the shock body inside the lower mount, and bring it up, or down.</U> </TD></TR></TABLE>

Won't turning the spring perch lock (or the spring perch for that matter) just turn and hence compress or decompress the spring?


Modified by AThiker at 1:19 AM 10/6/2005

 

hey there is def a need to preload. if there was no need to preload we wouldnt spend this kind of money on suspension parts. when u preload there is always tension on the spring which gives you a much nicer more consistant quieter ride. i preload mine 1 1/4" front and 1" rear.

 

to adjust height via the lower collar (where your supposed to adjust) jack car up and remove wheel. the springs should already be preloaded if you installed them correctly. but if not tighten spring all the way up against the upper pillow mount. then use the adjusting wrenches that they give you to tighten the spring even more (about an inch). This is called preloading. now, on the bottom of the coil over assembly below the spring there are 2 rings that are threaded that tighted against the spring. tighten these 2 against eachother as tight as u can without loosening preload. to lower use the suplied wrench and put it on the top of the two rings and tighten to tread it into the lower collar. to raise the car put the wrench on the bottom of the two rings and turn lefty loosey to untread the coilover from the bottom collar and this raises the car. then use the very bottom ring that is by inself to tighten against the lower collar to keep the coil over from raising or lowering it self. i hoped this helped a little i wish i had pictures to explain more. but good luck. pm me if u have more questions. jason

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAPek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey there is def a need to preload. if there was no need to preload we wouldnt spend this kind of money on suspension parts. when u preload there is always tension on the spring which gives you a much nicer more consistant quieter ride. i preload mine 1 1/4" front and 1" rear. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow. THAT is the silliest post I have ever read in this forum in the last few months. Congrats. Your cookie is in the mail.

1) Unless you are jumping your car, the weight of the vehicle will keep the spring in compression all the time. As such, it will not rattle. Ever.
2) Coil springs on a car are NOT designed to operate in tension.
3) No need to justify your purchase with false information. Just because it's expensive doesn't mean its better.
4) The only time "pre-loading" becomes useful is when you jack up the car to work on it. When you lower the car the springs are already lined up with the upper perch so you won't hear the characteristic "clank" you hear with kits like Ground Control. A moot point.

For the record, my springs are not “pre-loaded” and my suspension is consistent and silent. Hmm…

In other words, it's a convenience, not a necessity. Thanks for playing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AThiker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Won't turning the spring perch lock (or the spring perch for that matter) just turn and hence compress or decompress the spring?


Modified by AThiker at 1:19 AM 10/6/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PIC Performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tighten the spring perch and spring perch lock against each other as tight as you can get them, so that when you rotate one, the other turns as well, and they should both turn the shock body.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PIC Performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tighten the spring perch and spring perch lock against each other as tight as you can get them, so that when you rotate one, the other turns as well, and they should both turn the shock body.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

this would only work if you were trying to lower the suspension. if you were trying to raise the shock or perch, there would be major friction and binding.

 

Hasn't happened to me before. As the spring isn't being compressed/uncompressed at all, its just spinning in its seat.
If you are actually wanting to raise/lower the perch itself, then yes it would get more difficult if you went upwards of course.

 

then i assume youve got no preload on the spring. with preload, the top of the spring would still be pushing up against the top hat as its rotating and i dont think the friction would make it easy to turn.

im not saying preload is a good thing, just that the official intructions say you have to preload the shock.

 

[QUOTE=CelicaGTV6]

Wow. THAT is the silliest post I have ever read in this forum in the last few months. Congrats. Your cookie is in the mail.


Im sorry u disagree and i understand where u are coming from but i own omni's and when i unloaded the tension on the spring it noticable rode worse. and i was trying to help im sorry u think everything that i said was wrong but u dont have to be a jerk about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAPek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im sorry u disagree and i understand where u are coming from but i own omni's and when i unloaded the tension on the spring it noticable rode worse. and i was trying to help im sorry u think everything that i said was wrong but u dont have to be a jerk about it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You cant unload the tension. The car's cornerweight provides "preload" or tension.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAPek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Im sorry u disagree and i understand where u are coming from but i own omni's and when i unloaded the tension on the spring it noticable rode worse. and i was trying to help im sorry u think everything that i said was wrong but u dont have to be a jerk about it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=sarcasm
http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=tension

 

See thats why I didn't do that in the beginning also, because I figured that the spring would be pushing up against the top mount and make it difficult to turn. But then I tried it and... its just not difficult. At least, not with ours, and our design is similar to others. The plastic ring between the spring and spring perch helps.
Anyhow I dunno what to tell you, other than I've never had this problem on several cars.

 

ok. i believe you. just not what i expected. at least you understand what i mean.

 

how come it seems like everyone who bought omni power pieces of **** know nothing about suspension AT ALL.

"PRELOAD THEM". I AM GONNA SCREAM IF I HEAR THAT ******* WORD AGAIN.

"my car rode better with them preloaded" bullshit, thats in your head, it handled the same. omnipowers HANDLE LIKE ****.

i give omni power kudos for raping so many people on a shitty product. it just shows if you build something shiny "ricers will come"