First, the clutch is super stiff with pretty short amount of travel. What are the chances the PO had the clutch replaced by 134K miles? 98 Accord DX.

What are the chances she had the timing belt done?

I got 2 keys with the car, one works fine, the other one will do everything but start the car, it cranks it, but won't start it. What's the point of this key? If I have another key cut for a spare, will it work or not to start the car?


I'm unsure what it takes to get out of trial user status or whatever but until I can post in the classifieds section, I need some little things.

The ac control *****
Passenger side sideview mirror, black (or a pair of silver)

And I have a set of 4x114.3 steelies with tires for sale, pay shipping and $100 for my trouble and they're yours.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A3Infidel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First, the clutch is super stiff with pretty short amount of travel. What are the chances the PO had the clutch replaced by 134K miles? 98 Accord DX.

If she's a woman, the chances are great. Seriously though, it depends on the quality of the driver. My teacher had a 94 with the original clutch, 225k miles.

What are the chances she had the timing belt done?

Probably only if hte dealership reminded her. It should be changed at about 100k, but I got mine changed at 40k cause i'm paranoid

I got 2 keys with the car, one works fine, the other one will do everything but start the car, it cranks it, but won't start it. What's the point of this key? If I have another key cut for a spare, will it work or not to start the car?

It may be the anti-valet key. I dont know why. Most valet keys start the car but won't let them in the trunk. I'd ask the dealer about that. The other possibility is if the key is encoded, and that's a copy, it wont start because the key isnt properly coded.

You're a trial user and limited to 5 posts aday for about 20 days. I've seen some cheap AC ***** on ebay (search both 98 accord and 1998 accord). or you could try majestichonda.com, which has teh cheapest OEM parts i've seen.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got 2 keys with the car, one works fine, the other one will do everything but start the car, it cranks it, but won't start it. What's the point of this key? If I have another key cut for a spare, will it work or not to start the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>Sounds like the previous owner had a spare key made, but it wasn't programmed for whatever reason.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ac control *****
Passenger side sideview mirror, black (or a pair of silver)</TD></TR></TABLE>
On the ****, you could either go to a junkyard and buy one for $5 or so, or just go to the dealer. It'll cost about $15 or $20.

On the mirror, I've replaced both of mine on my '99, new mirrors for my car cost ~ $200 from the dealer though you can buy them cheaper on line ($150 or $160 or so). However... the '99 has a "bendable" mirror, the '98 had a fixed mirror, so replacement mirrors for your car might be cheaper. Unless you want bendable mirrors, of course. By the way, the mirrors come pre-painted from the factory, so there's no need to worry about having to paint it once you get it.

 

So to get more keys made I have to get them "encoded"? Who does that, the dealer?

Thanks for the info on the parts.

It's my understanding the lady that owned it did have it serviced (not an enthusiast), so I may be safe in assuming it was done.

There's a fine coating of oil all over the driver side of the hood, like it sprays a little bit. Any indication of something bad? maybe the oil seal on the cam shaft?

 

Yes, the Dealer should be able to code it. There's basically a chip that needs to be in the key for the ignition to start, an extra theft measure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordselux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, the Dealer should be able to code it. There's basically a chip that needs to be in the key for the ignition to start, an extra theft measure. </TD></TR></TABLE>Also, call them first to find out the price, prices can vary dramatically from dealer to dealer. Expect to pay between $20 and $30 for a new key, though you shoudl be able to get a second key at the same time for an extra $5 or $7 (just the cost of the blank since they did the work on getting the code from the first key they made).

Also... since you only have one working key, I recommend that you bite the bullet and get one or two spares made. Just get regular keys, you could get a valet key (probably same price) which lets you open the doors and start the car, but doesn't let you open the trunk or glove box.

 

if you are wondering about the timing belt, just look at the condition of the accessory belts. that should give you a good indication of how old the timing belt is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Beach Accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are wondering about the timing belt, just look at the condition of the accessory belts. that should give you a good indication of how old the timing belt is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yo beach you cannot do it that way i have seen many people replace outer belts but not the t-belt proper way to chk it out is to remove cover and visually look at it