Upgrading my fuel system, any help appreciated
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: the internet and I WILL STEP ON YOU
Hey hows it going? I am planning to upgrade my fuel system to get my engine running stoich instead of too lean. Here is my setup:
b18c5
ctr pistons
ctr cams
mugen ecu
mugen header
tanabe racing medalion j spec
iceman intake(not the greatest)
vafc
mugen thin head gasket
I plan to buy:
cam gears(dont ask why I dont have them yet)
aem fuel pressure regulator
What else would you suggest? Injectors? Any help appreciated.
b18c5
ctr pistons
ctr cams
mugen ecu
mugen header
tanabe racing medalion j spec
iceman intake(not the greatest)
vafc
mugen thin head gasket
I plan to buy:
cam gears(dont ask why I dont have them yet)
aem fuel pressure regulator
What else would you suggest? Injectors? Any help appreciated.
well i dont know how much power that will produce, but your c/r should be pretty high.
Look into 310's. But i wouldnt think you wuld need anything larger.
Mike D
Look into 310's. But i wouldnt think you wuld need anything larger.
Mike D
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,091
Likes: 28
From: the internet and I WILL STEP ON YOU
it should be around 12.5:1 ive heard stock injectors will be fine at 58-60 psi
I know Kobi & Ken, the guy that built the bottom for him. Your timing
(distributor) should be very conservative right now. The Mugen program had such advanced timing maps that he had to do that with the given mods to prevent detonation. Look into '97+ Prelude injectors (290cc) and a FPR. The injectors are plug & play and a Honda OE part. You should be good after that. Don't forget that the whole set-up needs to be tuned.
PS: if you want to sell that wing, let me know.
(distributor) should be very conservative right now. The Mugen program had such advanced timing maps that he had to do that with the given mods to prevent detonation. Look into '97+ Prelude injectors (290cc) and a FPR. The injectors are plug & play and a Honda OE part. You should be good after that. Don't forget that the whole set-up needs to be tuned.
PS: if you want to sell that wing, let me know.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,091
Likes: 28
From: the internet and I WILL STEP ON YOU
thanks for the info, yes he mentioned that the timing has been set way back, the car is a frickin beast without a doubt, the lude injectors sound good and cant be too expensive, what brand cam gears should i go with? for safety and non slippage? hehe IF i ever tire of the wing, ill let you know, but thats most likely not going to happen
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Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,091
Likes: 28
From: the internet and I WILL STEP ON YOU
btw i plan to get it on a dyno in the summer with some tuning by yack if possible to get it running mean and perfect. Also, do you know if my header is jdm? Akira said it bolted to the stock cat, but it has the jasma plate on it and the tanabe looks 2.5 all the way back(i havent measured but the exaust piping is huge) and miles(mugenR1011) said that my header was jdm. i cant tell from just looking and was wondering if it is a 2" or 2.5" collector, thanks
If you look around (may take awhile), you can find used Lude injectors for $125-150 a set. Make sure they are '97+ though.
Cam gears...get anything that is 4+ bolt. Most of us have Toda gears. The new Gen. are fantastic. Contact Dave @ R&D or Mike @ IPS. Either can hook you up!
Not sure on the header. I always thought it was a USDM version (2.25"). The Tanabe you have should be 60mm (63mm = 2.5") with a significant reduction at the cat connection point. Only way to really tell is to take it off.
PS: Before you dyno this summer, try to locate an OE '98 ECU. It would be a good comparison to see pre- & post- runs of each. It would also let you see if the timing maps in the Mugen are the culpret to the detonation.
Cam gears...get anything that is 4+ bolt. Most of us have Toda gears. The new Gen. are fantastic. Contact Dave @ R&D or Mike @ IPS. Either can hook you up!
Not sure on the header. I always thought it was a USDM version (2.25"). The Tanabe you have should be 60mm (63mm = 2.5") with a significant reduction at the cat connection point. Only way to really tell is to take it off.
PS: Before you dyno this summer, try to locate an OE '98 ECU. It would be a good comparison to see pre- & post- runs of each. It would also let you see if the timing maps in the Mugen are the culpret to the detonation.
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