I just swapped my y8 MPFI into my automatic->5speed crx dx.

For the MPFI Wiring, I ran the 4 wires out to the firewall, to meet the 4 wires I cut at the firewall on the first crx.

I've checked the wiring over 10 times on everything, I figured if I did the ECU wiring and just ran the 4 wires and soddered them to the 4 wires coming off of the engine everything would work great. WRONG The car fired right up, but its only running on 2-3 cylinders depending on my fire order, and its throwing a code 4 (crank angle sensor) at the dizzy. Plus If I hit the throttle at all it just pops and dies and wont rev at all. Ive searched and searched and checked over the wiring , tried swapping distributors, injector resistor box, everything. I'm starting to get depressed this has to run sooon or I wont have a car.

 

Did you move the wires that were going to C1 and C2 to B10 and B12?

The 4 wires that go out to the engine bay should be from C1, C2, A3 and A7.

 

I used the method that leaves you with 4 wires through the firewall.

Cut the wires at C1 and C2 with a little wire left on the plug and run off 2 wires from the leftover wire from the plug into the firewall.

Then take wires at B10 and B12 and connect them to the other side of C1 and C2 (harness side)

Then cut A3 and A7 and run 2 wires from A3 plug and A7 plug into the firewall.

This is the method that was used on the mpfi on my engine harness, all i did was cut the 4 wires when pulling the motor out and did that **** at the new crxs ECU and connect the 4 wires correctly. Its running like **** and I dunno why.

 

its triple-checked, please someone help , my only idea left is to make sure the wires are pinned completely in the plugs at the ecu.

 

Did you switch the tps wires?

 

Ohh good call, i forgot that part!!

 

I don't see what that would do. The motor came out of a mpfi'd DX and was dropped into an automatic DX converted to manual. It has a y8 intake manifold/motor and the only thing that needed to be changed/added was the 4 wires for MPFI. im ******* losing my mind and my fingers are so sore and cut that I barely feel like typing.

unless your reffering to this?
-Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) wires need to be extended, the TPS is a black sensor on the side of the throttle body, there are 3 wires going to it, extend those, always solder and use heatshrink. On the TPS plug on the DX harness you will see 3 wires going to it, yellow, red, and green, in that order (if you are looking at the top of the clip from left to right on the DX clip). Depin and switch the green and yellow wires around so now the order is green, red, yellow. This is because the DX TPS sensor works in the reverse of the MPFI one, so if you didn't do that your car would think it was at redline when it was suppose to be at idle. So if you have that problem you know you skipped this step.

is the TPS plug on the engine harness or on the car harness

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HBK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the TPS plug on the engine harness or on the car harness</TD></TR></TABLE>

Engine... you didn't swap the TPS and MAP plugs did you? Measure the voltage at the TPS, output should be ~.45V closed and ~4.5V WOT.

 

nah, everything came off with the motor, the burgundy autmatic was a shell and I only used the basics from it. I just cleaned up, but after my last attempt at re-pinning the wires in the ECU plugs, its possible that they werent clicked in alll teh way, welll after messing with it long enough, i think my B plug is shot, when i try to get C1 back in its place it goes into the whole that the plastic clip holder locks into. im considering cutting out a plug from my old car and redoing it all, ive tryed eveyrthing else.

 

after checking and double checking my wiring and its still not working, im considering selling both of my crx shells and calling it a night on hondas.

the integrity of the actual wires was sketchy, so i cut it all off and ran C1 and C2 directly from the ecu plug to the dizzy plug. ive tryed like 10 times on this bullshit and its nonstop code 4 varying from 2-3 cylinders.

I feel like im SO close to getting this thing running right and something is fighting me.

I just bought a test-light and I hooked everything up and I pulled out the dizzy plug, had my freind crank teh car, and stuck the test light into each hole- NOTHING.

I did this method first Tried and true method
-Pins B10 and B12 are empty meaning there are no wires going into them as a general rule, however some models have a wire at B12 (if you have one that is one there that is one less wire you will need to move).
-Pins B2 and B11 have wires going into them but they are not used for anything on most cars (see Automatics and Exceptions above).
-Take the pin/wire from B2, de-pin it (this means pop it out of the plug) and pin it (pop it into plug) into B10's empty spot, how you have a wire at B10.
-Take the pin/wire from B11, de-pin it and clip it into the B12 spot, now you have a wire at B12.
-Cut the orange C1 wire and white C2 wire "in half" (by cut in half I mean cut the wire making sure to leave enough wire so you can strip and solder them to another wire later). Now when dealing with cutting I will refer to the side of the wire coming from the interior harness as the harness side, and I will refer to the side of the wire coming directly from the ECU's plug (direct ECU connection) as the ECU side (the only plug in question for this step is the ones that go into the ECU).
-At the ECU plug, for C1 and C2 solder and heatshrink wires to them and run them into the engine bay (I did this via the A/C grommets). Mark these wires with a piece of tape saying C1 and C2 on it. Because if you are like me you were using black wire which all looks the same so you need to make sure you know which is which.
-Now connect and solder the ECU side of B10 onto the harness side of the orange C1 wire, then do the same for the ECU side of B12 and the harness side of the white C2 wire.
-Cut wires at A3 and A7, solder and heatshrink wires to the plug side of A3 and A7 and run them into the engine bay, make sure you mark them. Now you should have 4 wires running into your engine bay.

then tryed this method
Swap and switch method (less cutting and soldering)
-Pins B10 and B12 are empty meaning there are no wires going into them as a general rule, however some models have a wire at B12. If you have wires there de-pin them and pull them out.
-De-pin C1 and C2 from their plug and plug C1 into B10s spot and C2 into B12s spot. By doing this you just saved yourself the need to solder any cut and solder at least 2 wires.
-Pins B2 and B11 have wires going into them but they are not used for anything on most cars (see Automatics and Exceptions above).
-Take the pin/wire from B2, de-pin it (this means pop it out of the plug). Now solder and heatshrink on a length of wire long enough to reach into the engine bay all the way to about 1ft after the fire wall. I say this because I like to add a plug right after the firewall later on so you can unplug your whole engine harness if you ever need to. You can do this in comfort outside of the car. Once you are done pin this wire into C1's now empty spot.
-Take the pin/wire from B11, de-pin it and solder and heatshrink a length of wire onto it just like you did for B2. Once you are done pin this into C2's now empty spot.
-Cut wires at A3 and A7, solder and heatshrink wires to the plug side of A3 and A7 and run them into the engine bay, make sure you mark them. Now you should have 4 wires running into your engine bay.


and now im considering suicide because my wiring harness is **** and I bought an automatic lemon. The only idea I have left is that there might be an automatic wire throwing me off.

 

Ok, so it does still run, but like **** right? Have you checked over the grounds and all the basics? Its in a new car, what about the gas?

 

Yes it fires up every time but its only running on 2 or 3 cylinders and I'm reading how people throw code 4s and they say their car runs great anyway. The gasoline sat for a while but I don't see how that could be causing a problem. I'm only throwing one code- (4) and I should've eliminated that with my new wiring.

I hit the throttle and it doesnt do ANYTHING, won't rev up just backfires alot.

I'm running out of ideas and I can't drive my moms car forever.

 

At this point since your stock harness is all hacked up, run all your wires independantly. My harness was all jacked when I went to do my mpfi swap.

I ran all 4 injector wires right fro the ecu to the injectors.
I ran the 2 wires for the dizzy stright to the dizzy from the ecu.
I also ran the injector power right to the box so I didnt have to combine the 2 stock ones.

I also had problems when I'd press the gas it would fall on its face, runs just fine now.

 

now that ive just completely read up on it i realize that C1 and C2 go to the blue/green and blue/yellow wires, if they were messed up id be throwing a code 9 *cylinder position sensor but im throwing a code 4, so im gonna cut my harness up some more and re-run the white and orange wires comiing off of of the plug directly to B10 and B12 and see what happens. wish me luck, thanks for the help thusfar and i think im gonna leave the injector wiring how it is, only had to add 4 wires, the guy who did the previous mpfi wiring on my old dx did a good job and would probably cry if he saw what i did to it