motor is a jdm B18C-R with supertech flat valves and new valve seals ( replaced after missshift on sebring raceway last year ).

did a compression test and it came out fine, 245 across the board.... so there is no need for a leak down test....

it burns FOUR quarts in about 2 weeks ( about 1000 miles )... in VTEC is pours out smoke, looks like i have a rocket strapped to my car...

i posted a little while ago how i lost a valve adjustment nut but found it on the magnetic drain plug, so i took off the oil pan and everything looked fine to me, oil passages looked fine, no scratches, looks fine....

what else do i need to check??

i got blox stage 2 cams and supertech valvetrain ready to go into the motor but i wanna fix this first... please help me out!

 

I don't know on the b series but on the d series the valve seals for the intake and exhaust are different--they have different color springs--could be an issue.

 

my guess is that your new valve seal might be leaking.

 

i've never seen valve seals make THAT much oil consumption.. also, there would be a significant amount of smoke in the morning, and i'm not sure he's experiencing that or not.
my vote is piston rings.

 

imo, even if the compression is still good its best to still do a leak down test

 

would a leak down test tell me if its valve seals? i know it could tell me piston rings...

if i take off the head, is there a test that i could do to see if the seals are leaking? like pour oil into it and see if it goes through the valve seals....

thanks guys

 

Aleak down as well as compression test tells if the valves and top rings are sealing. Nothing about oil consumption. You have bad oil rings or a scared cylinder wall letting oil by the oil ring, this will sometimes increase compression test numbers. The oil will actually seal the top rings better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toEknEEg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would a leak down test tell me if its valve seals? i know it could tell me piston rings...

if i take off the head, is there a test that i could do to see if the seals are leaking? like pour oil into it and see if it goes through the valve seals....

thanks guys</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't have to pull the head for that. You can pop off the manifolds and clearly see coked oil coming down the stem. If you are going through that much oil it will be very visable on the stem and back of the valve. Take off your header first, it's the easiest and most probable.

My vote is for the rings if consumption is that high...though having completely lost jam nuts you may have gotten loose enough to damage the valves, it's worth a peek anyhow.

 

ok... based on the info my fellow honda-tech members have provided, i'll do a leak down test to see if it is in fact my piston rings, if it is not that... then i'll look towards the vavle seals...

i just assumed i didnt have to do a leakdown test because my compression test results were fine, i'll just double check

i'll keep things updated to let othes know in case they are going through the same thing....

if it is the piston rings, is it necassary to hone the block? i've read "they wont seat right, etc." but the cylinder walls look absolutely fine... oh yea, do i have to take out the crank when taking out the piston, or could i just unbolt the rod from the bottom and just push the piston up and leave the crank in place?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toEknEEg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok... based on the info my fellow honda-tech members have provided, i'll do a leak down test to see if it is in fact my piston rings, if it is not that... then i'll look towards the vavle seals...

i just assumed i didnt have to do a leakdown test because my compression test results were fine, i'll just double check

i'll keep things updated to let othes know in case they are going through the same thing....

if it is the piston rings, is it necassary to hone the block? i've read "they wont seat right, etc." but the cylinder walls look absolutely fine... oh yea, do i have to take out the crank when taking out the piston, or could i just unbolt the rod from the bottom and just push the piston up and leave the crank in place?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, you need to hone the block. In other words, add cross-hatching on the walls for the new rings to seals. If it is the rings, you may want to check the diameter of the cylinder bores to make sure they are still within spec and do not need oversized pistons.

When you do a leakdown test, it is best to take off the intake pipe and open the TB, oil cap on the valve cover removed, disconect cat from header, even dip stick removal. This way, if there is a leak, you will be able to here where it is coming from. That will tell you what is leaking, pistons, valves, valve seals, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aleak down as well as compression test tells if the valves and top rings are sealing. Nothing about oil consumption. You have bad oil rings or a scared cylinder wall letting oil by the oil ring, this will sometimes increase compression test numbers. The oil will actually seal the top rings better. </TD></TR></TABLE>

jesus, open your eyes guys, read this^^^

 

I've been experiencing a similar problem with my h22. I've been burning a quart every 70 miles or so, and smoke like mad every time I'm at WOT. My compression has always been good at 225-230 so I looked into other possiblities as being the cause. I thought a faulty PCV because every time I pulled off my intake manifold there were streams of oil in each runner.

Well, after finally doing a leakdown test I found them to be 20-25%, not good obviously. My head has had a fresh rebuild and while performing the test it was obvious that the air was leaking past the rings. I now understand the excess oil in my intake manifold is from blow-by.

A leakdown test, as suggested by everyone else will help provide some answers, hopefully better than mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.6i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

jesus, open your eyes guys, read this^^^</TD></TR></TABLE>

no kidding....just ignore Don I'm still not seeing how a jam nut that made it into the oil pan effected the cyl walls. The oil control rings may have gone as it was thier time but if that nut made it anywhere near the cylinder it would have been from the top and crashed that cylinder all together. Take off the header and at least look, 30 mins maybe and you have peace of mind.

I'll try to grab pics of a GSR head I have that had this same issue before it finally burnt a valve when a big chunk of carbon flaked off most likely. It had good compression and was drinking oil. I haven't torn it down yet so it's all still visible.

 

piston rings I would go for, had also a smoke problem replaced valve seals and didn't helped,
New pistons and tadaaaaaaaaaaaaa problem fixed.

 

bump for this guy!

 

thanks for the advice....

i just ordered my piston rings, some new ACL bearings, and a new 2-layer headgasket....

last question i swear, when i take out the crank, do i have to check anything else other than tolerances with the bearings via plastigauge?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toEknEEg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the advice....

i just ordered my piston rings, some new ACL bearings, and a new 2-layer headgasket....

last question i swear, when i take out the crank, do i have to check anything else other than tolerances with the bearings via plastigauge? </TD></TR></TABLE>

check journals for hair line cracks etc.you should be good though...
also your gonna change seals right? especially main and cranksnout seals?

 

Have the bores checked to make sure they are round (.0005) and the correct finish for your rings.