I am rebuilding my F22 engine due to high mileage. It was still running strong before I pulled it. It has 200k miles. The main bearings were all good. But the rod bearings were showing some normal wear so I replaced them. All cylinders were good and no scratches and rings were still in spec. Did not have to machine the crank. It was still in spec as verified with plasti gage. I had the head rebuilt, put new valve guides and seals and valve grind. It was flat and did not need shaving.
Now, can I reuse the head bolts since these bolts are torqued to specs and not torqued to yield?
This is my daily driver.

 

Chances are you can reuse them. The bolts can stretch, so measure the length. Clean them up good and inspect them. You should be OK.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt_in_sd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The bolts can stretch, so measure the length. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hiow long should they be? What is spec?

 

You can reuse them of course. With 200k it's not a bad idea to replace them, especially since you've already replaced a lot of parts that do wear over time.

 

if you have not taken them off and reused them many times,, it is ok to reuse them ,,make sure to clean them well and apply a lite coating of oil on them and torque to specs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deserthonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have not taken them off and reused them many times,, it is ok to reuse them ,,make sure to clean them well and apply a lite coating of oil on them and torque to specs </TD></TR></TABLE>
And on the bottom of the bolt head (the part of the head that makes contact with the cylinder head)....to add....you should NEVER EVER reuse "torque to yield" bolts.

 

Thanks for the responses. I chased the thread on the block and put assembly lube on the washer and bolt threads and did not have any problems torqueing to 78 ft-lbs.
Now the engine is in the car and putting everything back together. Put the a/c lines with new o-rings all together and vacuum the system and get it ready for charging.

What is the best way to oil prime the engine to make sure there is oil pressure before firing it up? Pull all spark plugs and just keep on cranking until I see oil in the cylinder head? How do I disable the fuel pump before oil priming? Thanks again for the all the help.

 

When you say "torque to yield" is this the same as bolts your tighten to xx foot pounds then use a torque angle guage to finish it off?

 

torque to yield means that the tightening procedure for the bolts guarantees that they will stretch significantly. Since these bolts are not supposed to be torqued to yield, they can be reused.

 

I usually pull the fuse for the fuel pump.

 

Ok, pulled ECU fuse, removed spark plugs then crank until the oil pressure light turned off. Pulled the valve cover and cam is well oiled so I have oil pressure.
Then put all spark plugs , ECU fuse back in and it fired up. Oil pressure light OFF. So far so good.

Now, the release bearing inside the clutch housing is rattling. I used new clutch kit with new release bearing. I made sure the new release bearing is clipped properly in the fork but now it is rattling. What could it be. Is there an adjustment? Splines have been lubed as well. Thanks for the help.

 

Your throw out bearing is chattering?

Have you tried goofing with the free play on your clutch?

 

spend the cash get some new bolts. Those old bolts have been weakened due to constant expansion and contraction due to engine use.