b20vtec.. jun stage 3 or buddy club 4 cams?
im wondering which set of cams would be better for my build.. so far i have a b20vtec motor with a b16 head with skunk 2 valve springs and retainers, with 12.5cp on eagle rods.. and im wondering which cams would benefit my setup better.. this car is daily driver but also likes to be beat on alittle bit.. i dont wanna lose to much bottom end but have a suffiecent amount.. so guys let me hear some opinions!! thanks!
if ur gonna be daily driven it dont get jun 4's there more of a high profile race cam........ i wouldnt really get anything past stage 3 on the street for reliability. i have an 11 sec all motor car and i have jun3 in them and i love it.
p.s
with jun 3 or 4 maybe even all high profile cams u need to rev to make power. and they love high compression motors. and if ur gonna daily drive ur **** u might even wanna roll with skunk2 stage 2 cams
p.s
with jun 3 or 4 maybe even all high profile cams u need to rev to make power. and they love high compression motors. and if ur gonna daily drive ur **** u might even wanna roll with skunk2 stage 2 cams
I will be using the BC4 cams in my 2.0L, 12.8 compression.
I know that the BC4's have the same valve timing events as the Skunk2 stage 2 cams. This is at 1mm. Not the advertised 300+ duration.
The Jun 3's have a similar duration which is 265, but a 12.0 and 11.5 lift. Im looking into trying the JUN cams after the BC4's.
So many die-hard Jun 3 fans, hard to resist their grind....especially turning the motor up to 9000+ rpms.
I know that the BC4's have the same valve timing events as the Skunk2 stage 2 cams. This is at 1mm. Not the advertised 300+ duration.
The Jun 3's have a similar duration which is 265, but a 12.0 and 11.5 lift. Im looking into trying the JUN cams after the BC4's.
So many die-hard Jun 3 fans, hard to resist their grind....especially turning the motor up to 9000+ rpms.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Used2beAb16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jun III's are the ****... That is all</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree but i want to add that they are high revers and they maintain an almost stock idle
I agree but i want to add that they are high revers and they maintain an almost stock idle
Well....i don't think this would be off topic, but have any Buddy Club cam owners had problems with cam breakage???
If the caps are torqued to spec, and a good valve adjustment is made, and the gears are torqued to 41 pounds, i don't see why these problems would occur....i just know of a couple breaks.
Just curious to find this info.
If the caps are torqued to spec, and a good valve adjustment is made, and the gears are torqued to 41 pounds, i don't see why these problems would occur....i just know of a couple breaks.
Just curious to find this info.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clint g »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I agree but i want to add that they are high revers and they maintain an almost stock idle </TD></TR></TABLE>
very tru thats is why i love them
I agree but i want to add that they are high revers and they maintain an almost stock idle </TD></TR></TABLE>
very tru thats is why i love them
the buddy 4 will make more power from 1000 till vtec over the Jun 3's and then will be similar in power from there up.. as stated earlier the profile on the buddy4 vtec is similar to the skunk stage 2 and jun 3.
I say go for the skunk pro-1's though. They made the best power up to 6 k on my car out of all the cams I have tried.. Skunk has a pro-2 that I should have very soon as well.
I say go for the skunk pro-1's though. They made the best power up to 6 k on my car out of all the cams I have tried.. Skunk has a pro-2 that I should have very soon as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the buddy 4 will make more power from 1000 till vtec over the Jun 3's and then will be similar in power from there up.. as stated earlier the profile on the buddy4 vtec is similar to the skunk stage 2 and jun 3.
I say go for the skunk pro-1's though. They made the best power up to 6 k on my car out of all the cams I have tried.. Skunk has a pro-2 that I should have very soon as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it all depends what your going for, the Jun III;s are gonna have the same vtec power, but there low end wil be like stock. (i like this for street if u build the motor for drag) The pro-1's would kill the jun's down low, so if its built for anyting but drag, (and including) theres are you best bet.
The jun III's IMHO are sweet because they retain a like stock primary. This will also mean u dont have to get crazy on a re-tune on the primary. But of course most people want a ton of mid range power, but if your like me u never spend time in the meat of the powerband, i either shift at by 3,000 or im winding it out and the car never sees the middle of the powerband.
I never even checked the price of the pro-1's they might even be had a little cheaper than the jun's if ur buying new.
I say go for the skunk pro-1's though. They made the best power up to 6 k on my car out of all the cams I have tried.. Skunk has a pro-2 that I should have very soon as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it all depends what your going for, the Jun III;s are gonna have the same vtec power, but there low end wil be like stock. (i like this for street if u build the motor for drag) The pro-1's would kill the jun's down low, so if its built for anyting but drag, (and including) theres are you best bet.
The jun III's IMHO are sweet because they retain a like stock primary. This will also mean u dont have to get crazy on a re-tune on the primary. But of course most people want a ton of mid range power, but if your like me u never spend time in the meat of the powerband, i either shift at by 3,000 or im winding it out and the car never sees the middle of the powerband.
I never even checked the price of the pro-1's they might even be had a little cheaper than the jun's if ur buying new.
I was making my suggestion on his request of...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frankenfiend 04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i dont wanna lose to much bottom end but have a suffiecent amount.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frankenfiend 04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i dont wanna lose to much bottom end but have a suffiecent amount.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was making my suggestion on his request of...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you really "lose" bottem end with the juns? I really have no idea, i am assuming that the near stock grind is yielding near stock numbers on the low end of the deal.
Some people reccommend aggressive primaries for the street and some dont. I dont know where to stand but i have cams with a more aggressive primary than stock and honestly i think i would now prefer the jun III setup. Just me
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you really "lose" bottem end with the juns? I really have no idea, i am assuming that the near stock grind is yielding near stock numbers on the low end of the deal.
Some people reccommend aggressive primaries for the street and some dont. I dont know where to stand but i have cams with a more aggressive primary than stock and honestly i think i would now prefer the jun III setup. Just me
I assumed he meant lose compared to other cam choices since he does want to change cams and cant decide wich... Guessed you would too..
So to clarify, I'm not saying the jun 3's lose power over stock like you precieved my statments..
So to clarify, I'm not saying the jun 3's lose power over stock like you precieved my statments..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I assumed he meant lose compared to other cam choices since he does want to change cams and cant decide wich... Guessed you would too..
So to clarify, I'm not saying the jun 3's lose power over stock like you precieved my statments..</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes i know what u meant i just think that we interpreted his statement a little different. And by all means i would also recommend the pro-1's if you are into a cam with big profiles all around, from what i have READ (no experience) they seem to be some killer cams.
So to clarify, I'm not saying the jun 3's lose power over stock like you precieved my statments..</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes i know what u meant i just think that we interpreted his statement a little different. And by all means i would also recommend the pro-1's if you are into a cam with big profiles all around, from what i have READ (no experience) they seem to be some killer cams.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Oldskool teggy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so t-bone.. none of these cams would loose power from say 2000-7000 compared with CTR cams right? m22, bc3+, jun3, skunk2 stg 1,2, pro 1, toda a,b,c</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im not t-bone but just some input, all of those cams should give some gain over the ctr cams on low-end if they are tuned properly, w/o tuning, they all have to potential to lose power.
Im not t-bone but just some input, all of those cams should give some gain over the ctr cams on low-end if they are tuned properly, w/o tuning, they all have to potential to lose power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Oldskool teggy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so t-bone.. none of these cams would loose power from say 2000-7000 compared with CTR cams right? m22, bc3+, jun3, skunk2 stg 1,2, pro 1, toda a,b,c</TD></TR></TABLE>
JUN3, Skunk2 stg 1,2 all have close to stock primaries so don't expect them to behave much differently from stock. I would agree with Tbone on this one, Pro 1, M22xx or the Toda B or C as they all have a good combo of midrange and topend for a street driven car.
JUN3, Skunk2 stg 1,2 all have close to stock primaries so don't expect them to behave much differently from stock. I would agree with Tbone on this one, Pro 1, M22xx or the Toda B or C as they all have a good combo of midrange and topend for a street driven car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pondus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
JUN3, Skunk2 stg 1,2 all have close to stock primaries so don't expect them to behave much differently from stock. I would agree with Tbone on this one, Pro 1, M22xx or the Toda B or C as they all have a good combo of midrange and topend for a street driven car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
JUN3, Skunk2 stg 1,2 all have close to stock primaries so don't expect them to behave much differently from stock. I would agree with Tbone on this one, Pro 1, M22xx or the Toda B or C as they all have a good combo of midrange and topend for a street driven car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Used2beAb16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But of course most people want a ton of mid range power, but if your like me u never spend time in the meat of the powerband, i either shift at by 3,000 or im winding it out and the car never sees the middle of the powerband </TD></TR></TABLE>
but if you are on the fwy.. with a b16 or itr tranny, at 70-80 mph, you are at 5-6k so it helps there too
But of course most people want a ton of mid range power, but if your like me u never spend time in the meat of the powerband, i either shift at by 3,000 or im winding it out and the car never sees the middle of the powerband </TD></TR></TABLE>
but if you are on the fwy.. with a b16 or itr tranny, at 70-80 mph, you are at 5-6k so it helps there too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Oldskool teggy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but if you are on the fwy.. with a b16 or itr tranny, at 70-80 mph, you are at 5-6k so it helps there too</TD></TR></TABLE>
I never cruise my 89 mm stroke motor at those speeds. B16 i did but not this one. I just cant do it.
but if you are on the fwy.. with a b16 or itr tranny, at 70-80 mph, you are at 5-6k so it helps there too</TD></TR></TABLE>
I never cruise my 89 mm stroke motor at those speeds. B16 i did but not this one. I just cant do it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the buddy 4 will make more power from 1000 till vtec over the Jun 3's and then will be similar in power from there up.. as stated earlier the profile on the buddy4 vtec is similar to the skunk stage 2 and jun 3.
I say go for the skunk pro-1's though. They made the best power up to 6 k on my car out of all the cams I have tried.. Skunk has a pro-2 that I should have very soon as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can you post the BC4 primary lobe specs
- opening/closing
- lobe centers
- lift
- duration
It would be interesting to see from the specs how much aggressive the BC4 primary lobe is vs. the Jun3
I say go for the skunk pro-1's though. They made the best power up to 6 k on my car out of all the cams I have tried.. Skunk has a pro-2 that I should have very soon as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can you post the BC4 primary lobe specs
- opening/closing
- lobe centers
- lift
- duration
It would be interesting to see from the specs how much aggressive the BC4 primary lobe is vs. the Jun3
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