Finally got everything in and ready to go, I wanted to do a compression check just to see where I was at. This is also with 0 miles on the car, not even started yet, just cranked it to get results. It's an 85mm 12.5:1 compression with 89mm crank and Skunk2 Pro 1's. I did 5 cranks with it at WOT, this is what I got:

#1 - 271
#2 - 270
#3 - 269
#4 - 270

How does this look? Car was cold, engine fresh, what do you think?

 

looks pretty good, now go through break in and test it after every 200 mi to see where you stand

 

I figured it looked pretty good for fresh and no miles.

 

the numbers look nice and consistent, but overall for 12.5:1 they are low.

i remember my old motor was hitting 280-290psi, and that was an LS/VTEC with ITR pistons and a thin headgasket. couldn't have been more than 11.5:1 static.

 

Wait until you've done an initial startup to check compression numbers. Those numbers you posted would undoubtedly go up once the rings begin the "seating" process.

 

Would it vary that the car was cold and never started before though? I mean the only thing that has been done is just cranking it to get the numbers. I was using one of those cheapo $20 Autozone testers. I mean, on three cranks it hit 270 on all of them and wouldn't go higher. Is it possible it maxed out?

 

270 is great for a motor that has never been started. It should be around the 300 mark after it has been run. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the numbers look nice and consistent, but overall for 12.5:1 they are low.

i remember my old motor was hitting 280-290psi, and that was an LS/VTEC with ITR pistons and a thin headgasket. couldn't have been more than 11.5:1 static.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What cams did you have? My 14.x:1 motor pegged the comp tester at 300 after a couple of cranks with JUN3 cams. Switched to M24X's and now I have 275 per cylinder.

 

That's what I wanted to hear. I'll get back to you all this week after we write a base map for it and get some street tuning in.

 

Sweet! Best of luck to you. I hope it all goes well.

 

Now get in the car, and beat the **** out of it to break it in right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now get in the car, and beat the **** out of it to break it in right. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you had good results by "beating the ****" out of the motor at break in? i am going to use Endyn's method.. How about anyone else?

 

I use the method Earl talks about and Mototune. Don't baby it, get in it do pulls to seat the rings immeadiately, if you don't gets the rings set you have a mess on your hands. If you built the engine with clearances that are all mapped and blueprinted, you will be fine. Babying the engine on initial drive is the worst thing you can do. IMO.

 

When you start driving a rebuilt, do you have to wait till operating tempature to get on it? Or can you just start the heavy break-in process after a minute of running?

 

I was also going to show you a thread about the breakin process but it looks like your on top of stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JH4DC4-2GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Have you had good results by "beating the ****" out of the motor at break in? i am going to use Endyn's method.. How about anyone else?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have had good results. It just makes sense....As a tech for sometime before getting into performance, this is how we broke in rebuilt motors since this is how they came from the factory so why baby it if you're building within Honda specs? Even less reason if you're going a little loose.

Car comes of the assembly line and gets maybe 2 miles put on it, comes to the dealer and the tech doing the pre-delivery inspection wears it out straight away for another 2-5 miles, then every customer or salesman who test drives it romps it to see what it will do for the next 20-30 until it's finally sold. Almost all Honda's start life this way and go forever. My .02

 

pandahatch:

I started the motor and immediately put the idle at a 14.7 AFR. Then I had a freind hold it at a steady 3000 rpm while I checked for leaks etc... Once the fan kicked on we went out to the street and immediately started ripping on it in 1000 rpm increments while we dialed in the AFR. Brought it back did a comp test and viola the motor was broken in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asubennett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pandahatch:

I started the motor and immediately put the idle at a 14.7 AFR. Then I had a freind hold it at a steady 3000 rpm while I checked for leaks etc... Once the fan kicked on we went out to the street and immediately started ripping on it in 1000 rpm increments while we dialed in the AFR. Brought it back did a comp test and viola the motor was broken in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What was your Compression results? And on what motor?

 

I answered that question above. My motor is in my signature.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asubennett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">270 is great for a motor that has never been started. It should be around the 300 mark after it has been run.

What cams did you have? My 14.x:1 motor pegged the comp tester at 300 after a couple of cranks with JUN3 cams. Switched to M24X's and now I have 275 per cylinder. </TD></TR></TABLE>

toda spec a.

 

The way I always break them in is to do 2 heat cycles while getting the A/F dialed in. I change the oil after to get all the assembly lube out then we take it and get on it increments like you said and dial the A/F starting at 3k and letting the compression brake itself to seat the rings properly. It ran perfect with no smoke or oil comsumption until a valve seat dropped due to horrible machine work.