I was thinking about doing Ls/vtec and they say u mostly blow the block becuz people rev out to like 8500-9000 all the time... Would it be worth while to just keep the bottom end mostly stock wit a gsr head and ls/vtec conversion kit. I would think this would be reasonable considering an Ls can handle 7500 on a stock block and is mostly just for tq and ull already make more tq and hp revvin out to 7500. Any thoughts. Idk if this was covered our not.. Im not a stupid kid thats new to hondas or anything I deff kno my shizzle. Its just I never had any experience wit Ls/v or frankenstein engines for that matter. I kno I read off homemadeturbo.com they took a stock ls block and strapped a gsr head on it and was revving out to 8500 rpms all day no problem. They made 173whp at 8200rpms. I dont wanna take chances of going that high with the rpms.. I just wanna kno if it would be worth it to get a lil more outta the Ls and get some experience with it.

 

just get the crank balanced and u can rev to 8500

 

Or get a rev limited and set it to what you think is safe. Maybe 7500/8000

 

well how much to get the crank balanced.. and if I dont. Would there be any other reason to not do this??? I kno a stock Ls block can handle 7500-8000 rpms without blowing.

 

the only reason not to balance ur crank would be if you wouldnt wanna go higher than the stock rev limiter

 

GSR Girdle.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1233974
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1149765

HTH somewhat.

 

theres no point for a girdle. If I only wanna rev to 7500. Its only 300 rpms over a stock redline. I just wanna make sure Ill deff make a lot more power then a stock Ls.

 

Maybe this is noobish but.. Why would you wanna rev any engine, LS/VTEC or not, to say 9000rpm anyways? If it's stock, what the hell is the point? Once you rev too high, you usually lose power. I'd just go get the car dyno'd and see where the power band starts dropping, and shift there, as long as the car can take it ok. Does this make sense?

 

If you rev a stock ls bottom end passed 7800 the rod bolts will break and you will through a rod. If your going to do Ls/vtec you need to do it right the first time an get a set of pistons and rods. From prolong over reving that stock bottom will break a rod bolt and you will through a rod. You could also get ARP bolts and tap your stock ls rod to fit the ARP bolt and you should be fine. But if you do that you still have to take ur bottom end apart so you might as well get pistons and rods in there since the block is bare. Just my 2cents

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18 CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get the crank balanced and u can rev to 8500</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ehhhh... alot more factors come into play than the crank being balanced.. such as:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LurkerS8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you rev a stock ls bottom end passed 7800 the rod bolts will break.</TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deviate_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would you wanna rev any engine, LS/VTEC or not, to say 9000rpm anyways??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, B16 cams and GSR cams both make power past 7.5K.. maybe not until 9k, but definitely well into 8k RPMs.

 

My ls/V sees 8K all the time. (unballanced crank 11.4 compression) and YES, it is worth it. I have / reccomend ARP head and rod bolts!!!
(I have a b16 head w/ CTR cams and it makes power allll the way to 8K!
Hank

 

P.S.- you don't need aftermarket pistons or rods.
LS rods can see 200 HP, and with stock LS/VTEC compression you won't see that HP without boost or spray.
Its easy to add head and rod bolts w/ the motor in the car. no need to spend an extra $700 + for pistons and rods.

 

Yeah, you definitely need to go with ARP rod bolts, if you're going to have a stock bottom end..