How many peeps here have used Motul and/or ATE blue
Im trying to decide betweent the two, it would be used for a lapping event and street use.
i have three choices im picking out of, Motul, ATE blue, And Ford heavy duty. my set-up for now will be,
front
stock fr rotors or Brembo oem replacements
stock lines(maybe steel if income permits)
Hawk HP pads
rear
stock rotors
stock pads
oem lines(or steel)
Also where can the ATE blue be picked up at? Or any online spots got deals or good prices for the fluid?
thanks for any help
i have three choices im picking out of, Motul, ATE blue, And Ford heavy duty. my set-up for now will be,
front
stock fr rotors or Brembo oem replacements
stock lines(maybe steel if income permits)
Hawk HP pads
rear
stock rotors
stock pads
oem lines(or steel)
Also where can the ATE blue be picked up at? Or any online spots got deals or good prices for the fluid?
thanks for any help
I have used ATE Blue and Ford HD. Motul is not a great choice for street use... as it must be flushed a lot. Ford HD would be the best if you do mostly street driving and don't want to have to flush all the time, and it's still decent for track use. ATE is great for track, and good for street too but you still have to remember to flush more often than Ford HD. I would consider Motul the ultimate, but I wouldn't use it in a street car... too expensive to keep flushed like you should. Hope I made a little sense.
Try ATE first.... if it does not suit your needs move "up".
Og racing has a nice price on the Super Bl00.
https://www.ogracing.com/ogshell/loadpage.pl?96527+catbrak.html
Will
-who has had no issues wif Bl00
Og racing has a nice price on the Super Bl00.
https://www.ogracing.com/ogshell/loadpage.pl?96527+catbrak.html
Will

-who has had no issues wif Bl00
PS~ fluid can be ordered here... http://www.ogracing.com/
Huh?!? You've got that backwards. Check out the wet boiling points of each and I think you'll see the ATE is higher. Why is that important? As you know brake fluid is hydroscopic (attracts water) and as fluid stays in the system longer, more and more water is present. The wet boiling point is what dictates when the fluid boils, not the dry (when aged) hence a fluid with a higher wet boiling point will be a better street brake fluid.
Check out RPMNet for further details on the brake fluid (http://www.rpmnet.com/techart/fluid.shtml)
And where to get it online at a reasonable price. Try OG Racing http://www.ogracing.com/ogshell/load...9+catbrak.html
Check out RPMNet for further details on the brake fluid (http://www.rpmnet.com/techart/fluid.shtml)
And where to get it online at a reasonable price. Try OG Racing http://www.ogracing.com/ogshell/load...9+catbrak.html
I have used ATE Blue and Ford HD. Motul is not a great choice for street use... as it must be flushed a lot. Ford HD would be the best if you do mostly street driving and don't want to have to flush all the time, and it's still decent for track use. ATE is great for track, and good for street too but you still have to remember to flush more often than Ford HD. I would consider Motul the ultimate, but I wouldn't use it in a street car... too expensive to keep flushed like you should. Hope I made a little sense.
thanks for all the rplies fella's... and as far as the blue goes, whats the boiling point temp and also how often do
you guys bleed your system with the blue?
thanks alot
you guys bleed your system with the blue?
thanks alot
Trending Topics
thanks for all the rplies fella's... and as far as the blue goes, whats the boiling point temp and also how often do
you guys bleed your system with the blue?
thanks alot
you guys bleed your system with the blue?
thanks alot
YMMV and that's JMO and only my $.02 and . . .
[Modified by phat-S, 12:23 PM 2/15/2002]
I rarely if ever do a complete flush. Only if something isn't right or if there is air in the system.
After each weekend I just pull the old fluid out of the calipers and top off the master.
This is on a track only car though. For street I would just follow the book.
After each weekend I just pull the old fluid out of the calipers and top off the master.
This is on a track only car though. For street I would just follow the book.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,200
Likes: 0
From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
I use both ATE and Motul in all my cars (street and track).
The street car gets bled every time I swap pads (about once a month, I use more aggressive pads for towing). But rarely a complete bleed/flush.
The race car gets a complete flush to start the season. After that I bleed it when I change pads or rotors, or when the pedal starts to go soft. I figure if it feels good, there is no point messing with it.
The street car gets bled every time I swap pads (about once a month, I use more aggressive pads for towing). But rarely a complete bleed/flush.
The race car gets a complete flush to start the season. After that I bleed it when I change pads or rotors, or when the pedal starts to go soft. I figure if it feels good, there is no point messing with it.
I've used ATE Blue and Amber for the last 10 years in a variety of cars. It's easily good enough to last 2 years in a street driven car without needing bled. With the R, I now do complete brake fluid flushes yearly, but notice no change in pedal height or firmness upon changing. It would probably be fine to leave in for another year, but since I autocross the car and am rather **** about maintenance I change it anyway.
thanks, i also forgot to mention that i will only do about 1 or 2 track event, and maybe 1 or 2 auto-x events
for the whole year. i also will be switching back to stock pads for the street(maybe-undecided right now)it will depend on how many events i plan out. so far i know im doing one at gingerman in june. as far as the auto-x events go, the schedule for meets are not up yet(a miata club). do stock lines should be fine for now until i can upgrade to steel lines right?
for the whole year. i also will be switching back to stock pads for the street(maybe-undecided right now)it will depend on how many events i plan out. so far i know im doing one at gingerman in june. as far as the auto-x events go, the schedule for meets are not up yet(a miata club). do stock lines should be fine for now until i can upgrade to steel lines right?
On the CRX, we are using Motul 600. Dry boiling point for the 600 is 593F and wet is 420F. (This is higher than Motul Dot 5.1.)
CRXs have weak brakes to begin with and so every little thing helps in this area. If you want the best fluid then Motul 600 is the way to go, but just like Redline which is an expensive oil, this is an expensive brake fluid.
[Modified by Hracer, 3:32 PM 2/15/2002]
CRXs have weak brakes to begin with and so every little thing helps in this area. If you want the best fluid then Motul 600 is the way to go, but just like Redline which is an expensive oil, this is an expensive brake fluid.
[Modified by Hracer, 3:32 PM 2/15/2002]
ATE blue has worked great so far for my autocross, daily driving, and trying-to-get-my-***-to-the-track-one-of-these-damn-days needs. Check out the following link for the cheapest price on ATE blue I've found:
http://www.928.cc/
This is a strange little site -- one for 928 enthusiasts. But at $8.50/litre for ATE super blue or gold, who cares?
OT & btw, if you ever want to see an example of how NOT to construct a website, this is the place -- most confusing damn site I've ever been to. Their use of frames is entirely messed up. Don't bother trying to find a specific catalog listing for the brake fluid, because it's next to impossible. Just find their phone # and call them to place your order. That's worked best for me.
http://www.928.cc/
This is a strange little site -- one for 928 enthusiasts. But at $8.50/litre for ATE super blue or gold, who cares?
OT & btw, if you ever want to see an example of how NOT to construct a website, this is the place -- most confusing damn site I've ever been to. Their use of frames is entirely messed up. Don't bother trying to find a specific catalog listing for the brake fluid, because it's next to impossible. Just find their phone # and call them to place your order. That's worked best for me.
I use Motul 600. I used before the name change. If it is a street car, consider the Motul 5.1. It still has a high boiling point but is designed to last longer between bleeding/flushing. Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't the ATE a silicon fluid. You need to make sure that the system is completely flushed. I also thought that it would require flushing more often.
I'll correct you
ATE is not a silicon based fluid. ATE Type 200 (Amber) is DOT 4, while ATE Blue is not DOT certified because of the color. Both fluids are identical in properties, except for color and should be considered DOT4 if you're going to classify them.
ATE is not a silicon based fluid. ATE Type 200 (Amber) is DOT 4, while ATE Blue is not DOT certified because of the color. Both fluids are identical in properties, except for color and should be considered DOT4 if you're going to classify them.
Motul 600
Just give it a bleed every so often and you'll be fine. Some say the Motul is more "squishy" feeling than ATE Blue Racing, but I'm completely satisfied with Motul 600 (or whatever it's called now).
$.02
Just give it a bleed every so often and you'll be fine. Some say the Motul is more "squishy" feeling than ATE Blue Racing, but I'm completely satisfied with Motul 600 (or whatever it's called now). $.02
I use Motul RBF600 in my R on the street, autoX, and occassional track day. I've been very pleased with it and tend to bleed it about once every 2 months or so. I'll probably switch to something a little less expensive in the future though... maybe the ATE or Ford HD.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,200
Likes: 0
From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
do stock lines should be fine for now until i can upgrade to steel lines right?
Im running Ate with 0 problems. Been to 3 HPDE's, twice to Roebling and once to Sebring which is brutal on brakes. Had 0 problems with the Ate and Panther +. I read that Brembo is comming out with fluid that has a wet BP of 600 deg! Holy ****, thats higher than the Castrol SRF. I have no clue of the price, avaliablilty, anything. Just read about it in Grassroots. Anyone heard of it?
ford is not a good idea for the lazy. the wet boil temp really stinks. and dont be fooled by the labeled boil temps. they are minimums. not absolutes, so comparison by the label is not necessarily the best way to make a comparison. that aside, i stopped using ford a year or so ago when the changed the bottle. it is no longer 'cheap' as the shrink in bottle size was not matched by a shrink in price. also i had to bleed the stuff all the time. when it was cheap, it got the job done. about the only plus about it now is that it is readily available.
as for the other fluids, they will both suit your needs. just get the one that is most accessable is my advice and you can never have enough brake fluid. i get my motul direct from porterfield. call and ask for the price of a case. you will be happily surprised and even happier if you live close enough to pick it up in person
on a side note, after the focus first came out, ford released a 'focus only' brake fluid. im guessing ford recieved a few complaints about boiled brakes from customers and developed a better fluid, but i was so happy with motul that i never cared to do any research
[Modified by dn, 3:00 PM 2/15/2002]
[Modified by dn, 3:01 PM 2/15/2002]
as for the other fluids, they will both suit your needs. just get the one that is most accessable is my advice and you can never have enough brake fluid. i get my motul direct from porterfield. call and ask for the price of a case. you will be happily surprised and even happier if you live close enough to pick it up in person
on a side note, after the focus first came out, ford released a 'focus only' brake fluid. im guessing ford recieved a few complaints about boiled brakes from customers and developed a better fluid, but i was so happy with motul that i never cared to do any research
[Modified by dn, 3:00 PM 2/15/2002]
[Modified by dn, 3:01 PM 2/15/2002]



