Alright I have deduced almost everything that could be wrong, I DON't want to hot wire it, but I don't think I have a choice.
I swapped in a z6 to my hatch, finally got all the wiring figured out, my fan DID turn on in the beginning, but after now, it doesn't.
I've checked the fan switch, on the thermostat housing, (Good), I've changed to a new thermostat, (Good), I've checked the cooling fan relay, changed the fuse in the driver dash and close to the battery (Good).
I hot wired it and it does turn on.
What can it be.
Now I shorted a ground on my vtec solenoid, so I redid the wire and conncected it to the thermostat ground.
Originally though, the ground on the solenoid went into the big batch of harness, should I connect it back to there.
The reason why i am wary is because I see smoke coming from the radiator, which indicates that the engine is overheating
How long do you usually wait at idle, before the fan kicks on thanks
Maybe I am just paranoid

 

like 1-2 mints b4 my fan comes on...i use to have that same problem, when i first did my swap...it was a wiering problem...i had a mechanic fix it so i dont exzactly know.

 

ttt with my sh*t

 

what did you do to check the relay?

 

your problem is most likely the coolant system thermal switch. its is threaded into the motor and when the temp reaches a certain level it closes the circuit and turns the fans on. it is located a little bit under the distributer and a little farther back on the motor. the ones i have see have a brown plug on it but yours could be different. just take that out and replace it and it should fix the fans. it runs about 30 bucks from the parts store. hope this helps...

 

changed temp sensor
still doing the same thing

 

even though you say that your rewlay is good, try using a buddies for a few min and see if that fixes tha problem. I had this same issue about a month ago.

 

I changed the relay dude
same thing

 

get a voltmeter, ground the negative lead, check power at the positive side of the switch or simply stick both leads to the corresponding terminals in the connector of the fan itself while the <U>car's on idle and has reached normal operating temp.</U>. Either you remove the connector off the fan and stick your leads in there or just stick a paper clip in the back of the connector while it's connected to the fan and stick your voltmeter's leads to the paper clips

 

Then quit changing ****.

[small rant]Why the **** is that everyones first line of logic around here??[/small rant]

You at least need a meter to start seeing if something is open/shorted and to see if voltage is present or not. I'm sure I can dig up a schematic for you - but I can't make virtual measurements for you.

There aren't but so many things to check. You know the fan works. Is the fuse good? Is the relay good? Is the ECT switch good? Is the wiring good and making solid contact with what it needs to make contact with?

Try uplugging the ECT switch and shorting the 2-pin connector. That is what the switch does, so no harm here. If the fan doesn't kick on, time for further investigation using a meter.

 

have you run a continutiy test on the wiring clip?

Just run a wire from your battery to your fan and see if it even turns on.... You might have a dead fan motor. Also, check the fuse under the hood... it might be toasted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then quit changing ****.

[small rant]Why the **** is that everyones first line of logic around here??[/small rant]

.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's what i always notice too, but no one really listens, so i stop saying it...

 

fixed, bad thermostat, the first one i had even though new was a fluke