My 90 Accord LX with 160K miles has developed a miss/stumble from just off idle until about 1800 RPM during acceleration. If you pause accelerating after the miss clears up, it will do it again as you re-accelerate. If you accelerate rapidly, you do not get the miss. At idle, with the trans in park or neutral, revving the engine slowly/steadily from idle to about 2000 RPM, you will get the stumble, too. I've replaced plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, and O2 sensor. None of this has had any affect on the miss. The "check engine light" has never illuminated. I'm the original owner of this car and I've performed all routine maintenace--oil and filter have been changed at 3K intervals, and I never have to add oil. If anyone has any suggestions/recommendations, please post a reply. Personally, I believe the problem is fuel- and not ignition-related. Thanks

 

Have you checked your engine mounts?

 

I have not, but will do that today.

 

My car has the exact same problem...

 

I don't have this problem, but I was wondering: How do you check the engine mount? Just rev it suddenly and see if it jumps?

 

I've completed a visual on the motor mounts, and see no problem. Granted, inspecting the passenger side and rear mounts is difficult from above, and without removing "stuff". I really don't believe it's a motor mount problem.

I should add this to the list of symptoms--the miss/stumble didn't occur today until the engine was up to operating temp. I'm starting to think its the auto-trans. I think if it were ignition- or fuel-related it would have set the "check engine light" by now. Maybe someone on the forum can suggest something new. Thanks to all who have responded.

 

sounds like your egr ports are clogged,disconnect the egr and see if it still stumbles,if not clean out you ports.Look on the top of your intake,you will see a bunch of small plugs under the fuel rail,they have to come out to clean ports.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exile29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't have this problem, but I was wondering: How do you check the engine mount? Just rev it suddenly and see if it jumps?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Look for cracking or torn rubber inside the rubber area of mount.

 

check the DISTRIBUTOR!!!

i had the EXACTLY the same problem, check spark plugs, and open ur distributor see if there is oil inside

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAiL05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you checked your engine mounts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
?
What the F*&k would motor mounts have to do with a misfire ?

 

I disconnected vacuum line to EGR and the miss disappeared. With the EGR disconnected, I get a check engine light (at least I know it's working). I don't see any plugs in the intake manifold under the fuel rail. Is there any repair/clean-out for the EGR, or should I just replace it? Also, is there anyway to permanently clear the check engine light when I know it's caused by the EGR being disconnected. Thanks in advance for any additional advice you might have.

 

the egr valve is not the problem,it is the ports that are clogged.If you look closely under the fuel rail on top of the intake,you will small plugs that need to be drilled out to get to the ports.these plugs are small and easy to overlook.I will try to send you a bulletin on how to fix it.

 

EGR CLOGGED PORTS, FOR SURE!!!!! As mentioned below, that is the problem. I fought what I thought was a miss for a year, spent lots of money, checked compression, all kinds of things, when the other guy sends you the bulletin, you will be amazed how CHEAP and relatively easy to fix. The test is unhook the hose on the egr, plug the hose, restart the car. Typically it is at operating temp for this test. Put it in gear, with brakes applied, give it gas to get about the 1800 rpm you mentioned, if it is not missing while brake jacking it, this is your problem. All you need is a drill bit, tap, small slide hammer, vacuum cleaner, hammer. There are four main egr ports with eiher aluminum or brass plugs, with two bypass ports as well. You might have to take off a couple of things to get your drill in, but you just drill, tap, and pull out the old plugs with the slide hammer!! I will give you a hint, slightly tap the plug in first a millimeter or so, to loosen it a bit, then drill, tap, and remove. Clean out the ports just below, it is heavy carbon, with a stiff wire, vacuum the debris, install new plugs carefully. Buy an extra in case you shoot one across the garage. IT IS SIMPLE, and here is the best part. All six replacement plugs cost agout $5 from honda. Your local Honda dealers parts dept can help. you can even ask them for a printout of the Service Bulletin!! My 90 accord has 205k, and has never run better!! GOOD LUCK, ps.. Honda charge $200 to do this!!

 

Thanks for all who replied. Hope to fix the problem over the weekend. Great forum.

 

I know this is probably too late but can i have a copy of that bulletin as well?

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chubbygoatboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EGR CLOGGED PORTS, FOR SURE!!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep...here is a GREAT DIY on how to clean those ports (good for the cb7 guys and the cd5/7 guys too ): http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf

Skip paying honda to do it when you can do it yourself and learn some valuable experience .

 

Hey thanks man that really helped.

 

There should be a way to disable this EGR system all together, and yet
not have the CHECK ENG light on ?
I know this will cause exhaust gas emission, but still this will be less than any of those HUMMERs, EXCURSIONs, V10s, etc.
I think the way to do this is to plug the exhaust(IN) port-hole under the EGR valve.
This can be done by using(make-it-yourself) a gasket that only has one hole
for the conical lift-type valve. When you bolt down the EGR valve with the other
hole blocked off (by the gasket), you have a EGR system that is disabled.
In this way you can leave the vaccum hose and Lift-sensor wiring connected, as-is.

Does anyone have any opinion on this procedure? Will it work?

 

I have a 96 Accord EXR and a similar problem, however my check engine flashed a few times at the start of the missfire.
I took the vehicle to the mechanic and they informed of the same resolution.
He has found that 1 out of the 4 ports are clogged up but is currently cleaning out all ports.

Thanks

 

Thanks for the report but there was no need to bring up a year old thread just for that.
Props for searching though!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vettman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I disconnected vacuum line to EGR and the miss disappeared. With the EGR disconnected, I get a check engine light (at least I know it's working). I don't see any plugs in the intake manifold under the fuel rail. Is there any repair/clean-out for the EGR, or should I just replace it? Also, is there anyway to permanently clear the check engine light when I know it's caused by the EGR being disconnected. Thanks in advance for any additional advice you might have.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you need to test the EGR valve make sure it is holding vacc,, apply vacc to it with a vacc pump and make sure vacc does not drop...........Also you got to make sure you don't have any vacc at idle at the EGR hose,, if you do, it will pull the EGR open and create a vacc leak,