Correct way to check tranny fluid
I recently got my tranny fluid changed, (drain and fill) and now it seems to be shifting much firmer. I don't know if this is good or bad
I did use Honda ATF, but I was just wondering what's the best way to check the fluid? I hear so many diff ways...
Some say drive 5 min and check, some say start the car and check, some say run the car for a few minutes, and then check, etc. whats the best way?
Also can the fluid tell me anything about the transmission's condition?
Thanks in advance
I did use Honda ATF, but I was just wondering what's the best way to check the fluid? I hear so many diff ways...Some say drive 5 min and check, some say start the car and check, some say run the car for a few minutes, and then check, etc. whats the best way?
Also can the fluid tell me anything about the transmission's condition?
Thanks in advance
make sure you are in a level ground, car off, pull dipstick and it should be on the top line,,,,,,,,,,,,,
yes fluid condition can tell you whats going on insicde tranny it is is black and smells burnt your clutches are beginning to wear or worn .. if you see bit of metal particles gears are starting to go
change tranny fluid every 15k and use honda fluid
yes fluid condition can tell you whats going on insicde tranny it is is black and smells burnt your clutches are beginning to wear or worn .. if you see bit of metal particles gears are starting to go
change tranny fluid every 15k and use honda fluid
I saw some metal particles when I did the drain and fill, on the 3rd time (did the drain/fill 4x) but I've never seen any on the dipstick ?
So you dont check the fluid hot?
So you dont check the fluid hot?
hot or cold it does not matter mm if you saw metal it means some is wearing down plus if metal in oil it could lock up some of the valves in valve body those babies are really touchy
It was weird, I drained and filled first 3x, and didnt see any metal until the 4th time jus a little bit.
Could it have been from doing P-R-1-2-D3-D4 back and forth like 4 or 5 times? I did it fast a couple times.
I hope there is no permanent damage.
Could it have been from doing P-R-1-2-D3-D4 back and forth like 4 or 5 times? I did it fast a couple times.
I hope there is no permanent damage.
Might wanna check the owners manual...
My '98 Accord says warm it up thoroughly (like after driving around) then check it with the engine turned off.
Most other (non-Honda) cars you leave it running.
My '98 Accord says warm it up thoroughly (like after driving around) then check it with the engine turned off.
Most other (non-Honda) cars you leave it running.
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trust me it makes no difference ....wether you warm it up or chk it cold........just make sure you are on a flat surface
doesn't the fluid expand when its hot though? I'm sure your right though, you seem to know more then me. So I'll just check it cold.
What would cause my transmission to be shifting harder? Other then the hard shifting it seems fine?
What would cause my transmission to be shifting harder? Other then the hard shifting it seems fine?
checked it today, and its over the X's (too much) it's probally 1/8-1/5" over the X's...
I just got it drained/filled 2 weeks ago what should I do ? Anyway to take some out?
Anyway to take some out through the dipstick hole?
I just got it drained/filled 2 weeks ago what should I do ? Anyway to take some out?
Anyway to take some out through the dipstick hole?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97akwerd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">checked it today, and its over the X's (too much) it's probally 1/8-1/5" over the X's...
I just got it drained/filled 2 weeks ago what should I do ? Anyway to take some out?
Anyway to take some out through the dipstick hole? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Get a turkey baster and suck some out. It works great for doing any master cylinder work too lol.
I just got it drained/filled 2 weeks ago what should I do ? Anyway to take some out?
Anyway to take some out through the dipstick hole? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Get a turkey baster and suck some out. It works great for doing any master cylinder work too lol.
hmmm thats a good idea!
I checked it after a 5-10 minute drive and parked the car and turned it off. checked it 1 minute later and the fluid was in the X's...I dont understand how it reads good after a drive, but cold it's too full ?
Maybe because of my tranny cooler?
I checked it after a 5-10 minute drive and parked the car and turned it off. checked it 1 minute later and the fluid was in the X's...I dont understand how it reads good after a drive, but cold it's too full ?
Maybe because of my tranny cooler?
Moving parts...when everything is moving and warm there is more fluid displaced as fluid gets into every nook and kranny, where if the tranny was cold you wouldn't normally get into all that.
Thats what I thought...That's why I couldnt understand why deserthonda said check cold/hot no difference? It was like day & night of a difference.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deserthonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">trust me it makes no difference ....wether you warm it up or chk it cold........just make sure you are on a flat surface</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97akwerd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats what I thought...That's why I couldnt understand why deserthonda said check cold/hot no difference? It was like day & night of a difference. </TD></TR></TABLE>
My '98 4-cyl automatic makes a little bit of difference. It's only1 or 2 mm higher on the dipstick when I check it cold. Much less than the difference between the high & low end of the cross-hatched area.
Maybe for certain years the temperature makes more difference than other years.
Your original question sounds like someone told you to check it with the engine running. That's the proper way for almost all non-Honda cars.
My '98 4-cyl automatic makes a little bit of difference. It's only1 or 2 mm higher on the dipstick when I check it cold. Much less than the difference between the high & low end of the cross-hatched area.
Maybe for certain years the temperature makes more difference than other years.
Your original question sounds like someone told you to check it with the engine running. That's the proper way for almost all non-Honda cars.
So I have the shop do another drain/fill today, to get out the last bit of my non HONDA atf fluid...After the 5-10 minute drive home, I check the dipstick and its way over full. What the hell? Am I checking it wrong? Or does this shop not know how much to put in?
Here is the RIGHT answer to your questions:
1- I't does NOT matter wheather you check automatic transmission fluid when cold or hot. Actually, when the engine is stone cold and on level ground I've noticed perfection for fluid level. If you add fluid then yes drive around a little and then let the engine sit for 15 minutes or so because the fluid is still draining slowly. Just make sure you are on level ground (very important) and engine shut OFF. The fluid drains very slowly so be careful when adding more fluid and check many times. Fluid level in the xxxx is ok, but not perfect. Add fluid to the top hash line for perfect amount.
2- It is normal to see metal shavings on the drain plug (magnetic side). It is not normal to see shavings on the dipstick.
1- I't does NOT matter wheather you check automatic transmission fluid when cold or hot. Actually, when the engine is stone cold and on level ground I've noticed perfection for fluid level. If you add fluid then yes drive around a little and then let the engine sit for 15 minutes or so because the fluid is still draining slowly. Just make sure you are on level ground (very important) and engine shut OFF. The fluid drains very slowly so be careful when adding more fluid and check many times. Fluid level in the xxxx is ok, but not perfect. Add fluid to the top hash line for perfect amount.
2- It is normal to see metal shavings on the drain plug (magnetic side). It is not normal to see shavings on the dipstick.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Elvis1977 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is the RIGHT answer to your questions:
1- I't does NOT matter wheather you check automatic transmission fluid when cold or hot. Actually, when the engine is stone cold and on level ground I've noticed perfection for fluid level. If you add fluid then yes drive around a little and then let the engine sit for 15 minutes or so because the fluid is still draining slowly. Just make sure you are on level ground (very important) and engine shut OFF. The fluid drains very slowly so be careful when adding more fluid and check many times. Fluid level in the xxxx is ok, but not perfect. Add fluid to the top hash line for perfect amount.
2- It is normal to see metal shavings on the drain plug (magnetic side). It is not normal to see shavings on the dipstick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks bro! I'll check it tommorow after I drove around some and ill check it cold. Thanks for all your great answers.
I appreciate it...
1- I't does NOT matter wheather you check automatic transmission fluid when cold or hot. Actually, when the engine is stone cold and on level ground I've noticed perfection for fluid level. If you add fluid then yes drive around a little and then let the engine sit for 15 minutes or so because the fluid is still draining slowly. Just make sure you are on level ground (very important) and engine shut OFF. The fluid drains very slowly so be careful when adding more fluid and check many times. Fluid level in the xxxx is ok, but not perfect. Add fluid to the top hash line for perfect amount.
2- It is normal to see metal shavings on the drain plug (magnetic side). It is not normal to see shavings on the dipstick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks bro! I'll check it tommorow after I drove around some and ill check it cold. Thanks for all your great answers.
I appreciate it...
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